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Hi.I did rear disk brake conversion a while back,and dana 60 front on my 1975 f250 4x4.So Im at the place of replacing prop vavlve,my confusion is they make a prop vavlve for disk to disk ,and also an adjustable prop valve.Not sure the way to go,or the benefits towards making that choice.thankyou much appreciated dave
A disc to disc prop valve is typically static. Meaning, the proportioning function is built-in and non-adjustable.
The adjustable version can be used with any system - drum/drum, disc/drum or disc/disc. It allows tuning depending on the desired braking characteristics, load, or tire wear, etc.
Personally, I'm going with an adjustable Wilwood unit.. available through Speedway Motors for $80. Why? Cuz my wheel and tire combo (unsprung weight) may change over time and that affects braking.
Thanks HIO,Will your wilwood mount where existing is?I was going to order brake line through center line,and the fabrication coming from them plays apart.They also sell a adjustable,maybe l'l look into that?So it looks like the adjustable is the way to go.
On my 2WD bump, the prop valve is located on the frame rail under the cab. I plan on mounting the Wilwood unit to a custom bracket under the master cylinder.
Let me clarify further about "prop valves"... there are prop valves and combination valves. Sometimes the terms are used interchangeably so let's be clear on what we're talking about.
From the MC, a combination valve will have two inlets (front and rear) and three outlet ports - one for each front brake line and one outlet for the rear line. In its simplest form, a prop valve has one inlet and one outlet and connected only to the rear brakes.
wow thats sharp.So your adjusting front disk as well as rear with combination? opps I just read the speedway info on the wilwood looks like your only adjusting the rear brakes,,,nice unit
wow thats sharp.So your adjusting front disk as well as rear with combination?
Sort of but not really... the **** adjusts the system's brake balance and only controls the amount of pressure to the rear brakes. When stopping, the vehicle's weight is transferred forward and you'll want the fronts to do most of the work. Very little is actually done by the rear (normally).
At lock up, you want the fronts to lock up before the rear brakes lock up due to weight transfer. If the pressure were biased with more to the rear and the stopping action transfers the weight forward, you would be working against the momentum. Second, it wouldn't be good to lock up the rears in a turn. If the front brakes lock, you would, by instinct, want to lift to let the front tires bite.
The manufacturers inherently build in slight understeer in all vehicles because it is instinctively easier to lift and allow the front tires to gain traction than to apply throttle in an oversteer (or "loose") condition.
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