New Guy! Richmond-VA
I'm new to the forum as of 5 minutes ago. I've been snooping around here since going to do a little work on my mom's Aerostar. My mom owns 1992 Aerostar XLT 4.0 2wd. It has been going down hill for years now but she loves her Aerostar and doesn't want to part with it. I'm going to work on it for her.
I don't even have the Aerostar yet I'm going to pick it up this weekend. However, I do know some of the issues with it already. I'm going to use the search function but if anyone has any quick links to other websites that would be helpful to my issues below I'd appreciate it.
Known Issues:
-Over heating
-Missing Engine
-Stuck Closed Sliding Door
-Sagging suspension (especially rear)
Cheers!
STUCK SLIDING DOOR
Let's break this up. I'll start with the door issue since I just had a similar problem. The exterior door handle is a composite plastic, so don't go yanking furiously on that weak point. Close the sliding door and see if you can open it using the inside handle. Be aware there is a sliding lock mechanism immediately under the interior door handle. Make certain it is in the unlock position. Over time, road vibration and door slamming can shift it to partial lock.
If the interior handle will work the door properly, the problem is most like a worn exterior handle operating lever. You will need to remove the window surround hard plastic trim piece and the door panel. The plastic surround is held in place at the top by three friction clips. You remove the surround from the clips by pulling straight out. Don't try to bend the surround up or down or you will break off the mounting tabs.
Work the exterior handle and observe the lever contacting the release mechanism. It wears an exaggerated groove at that point. I was able to "cure" mine by fitting a small section of thin, 1/2" tubing over the lever bar. The lever bar is some what oval in shape. I had to tap my tubing into a similar shape to fit it.
If the interior handle does not operate the door latch properly, there is a chance the long operating lever between the forward and rear latch has been disloged from the the mid point support. If you reach your hand into the door, you will feel the small operating rod. About midway along, there is a plastic support the operating rod is supposed to be clipped into. If it is out of the clip, snap it back in and see if that solves the problem.
Those are the quick, easy fixes. From there, it gets complicated if the door is not tracking properly or the latches are broken. It is very common to have problems with lower door roller mechanism.
Try the above and report back.
I've been told the door is stuck in the closed position. When trying to open the door from the inside the handle moves freely as if it were stuck in the lock position or partially locked position.
I have a feeling it is going to be something to do with the lock. The Aerostar had power locks but the power locks stopped working.
Once I get it and have a chance to review the door I will post back.
Thanks Again!
(I am a musician almost all work is done for me and I pay.)Also corroded cooling passages can be blocked with sediments contributing to problem as can be the radiator be partially blocked. Flush.... Dont forget heater core junk in there too...flush some commercial flushing compounds also eat vital headgaskets and such beware and be warned. research.
Excessive pre ingition (Knocking/pinging)
can heat up a motor too.The 4.0's were known to carbon up. This contributes to poor running. There is a service procedure straight from FORD on this very engine. Involves carb cleaner and soaking engine and restarting. Theres a bit to it. Mine is fine history unknown 230,000km
I have a 1991 4.0 and its a cold beast. Thermostat change got me some heat still a coldish engine IMO.
Just had my rear springs changed. Delightful now. New springs or add airbags. (Air shocks not recommended because shock mounts won't take the strain of the push.) I read that on this site. airbags fit inside springs better idea. read that here too.
Power locks wires inside driver door hinge area inside rubber accordian boot are usually to blame. they break. split boot and check and see (you can get the boot back on.) chances are the plastic wire cover breaks as well as the wires. Get a manual with wiring diagrams to trace colors to what purpose. Mine were already repaired but I will be doing a proper solder heat shrink job soon as I get a dry day or 2 to get in the mood.
You have the 92 it will have airbag take care around the dash workin on wiring or anything. There calls for battery disconnect before working.
Good luck keep searching all the answers are here.
Sounds like you are going to have your hands full sifting through all these problems. Lack of power locks is not a problem as the slider can be unlocked manually. Just hope that manual lock is the reason the interior handle does not work. You can take off the door panel and pull the operating rod by hand and see if that releases the rear latch.
If you're lucky, you could have sluggish linkages like mine, or if not, you could have the damages described by Aerocolorado.
missing engine: replace spark plugs before anything else. That's how I cured a missing in my 1997.
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Also look for loose vacuum lines. Is there a check engine light? Can you pull the self-test codes and report here?
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