"Sayda magic woid(s) winna hundredollas!"* If not the IDM, it could be the IDM-to-VC wiring, or the UVCHs / connections. First thing I'd try is swapping around the UVCHs, then re-running whatever test told him it was 1, 3 and 5. See if the "bad injectors" move with the UVCHs.


* Okay, who's old enough to know what this refers to?....

 

Yes, I have the hypertech programmer and before I took it to the shop it wasn't showing ANY of these codes the mechanic is saying its throwing now. All it had was P0113 - because my air intake temperature sensor is gone, and sometimes P0344 if I cranked the engine too long. Also, before I took it to the shop, I inspected all 4 of the UVCH connectors visually and with an ohm meter. I even went one step further, and ohm'd the harness by pulling the big connector off the IDM and doing it from there. Now, my results were that all injectors were in spec in theory. The test I followed said all injectors should be right around 3.6 ohms. Another site said they should be fine if they are 5 or under. All were right at 3.5 - 3.6 except IIRC 1,3,5. They were 4 something.....So does that mean they are truly bad? And is that something I can fix by pulling them if they do need work??

 

Hmm, I'm almost 30 but don't ever recall hearing that saying lol

 

If you are suspecting the 4 something reading , it will either be the wiring ,or the solenoids.. you can move both to see if the problem follows

 

Ok, guess I have some tinkering to get done this weekend. My question is, won't these trucks run (albeit very rough) on just one bank?? The mechanic said the truck still won't run....to me it seems that there is something bigger going on to keep it from running than just a few injectors. The more I think into this the more frustrated I get. IDM would be the only other thing I could think of. However, I do get white smoke when cranking meaning at least some of the injectors are working right? And so in theory the IDM as well?? I don't know, this really sucks.

 

The bogeys may not show up as P-codes. Can that Hypertech do diag tests like KOEO, buzz, cylinder contribution? The shop probably used either CC or buzz to make the bad 1, 3, 5 determination.

Waaay too young. Maybe your parents remember. Groucho Marx hosted "You Bet Your Life" on TV in the '50s (just a few years before my time). They'd pick a word - "haircut" or "bathtub" or something, rubber chicken with the word on it would drop down on a string, he'd say "Say da magic woid, win a hundred dollas!". Then a guest would come on, and he'd try to steer the conversation to get the guest to "say da magic woid". IOW, TV was just as stupid and hokey then as it is today, just with cheaper props and in black & white.

 

I could be wrong but I'm not convinced its any of your injectors that has a problem.

If you can get your hands on a good IDM from someone's truck I would swap and try it. If they did a "buzz test" to the injectors that just tests whether electrical signals are reaching the injectors. It may not necessarily be that the injectors are bad. Plus the fact you said more than one injector went down at once. Heckuva coincidence. Also what color CPS did they use? Just wondering because the CPS tells the IDM when to fire the injector solenoids.

I would swap the IDM with a known good one.

 

Thanks for the input guys. I'll be getting the truck back tonight from the shop. I would've like to get it sooner, but my work schedule got in the way. I saw a write up at one point on how to make a device to manually buzz the injectors using AC current converted to DC. So I think I'll give that a try and if need be replace any bad Solenoids I find. But Before I even go that far I am going to try and find a known good IDM to borrow and see if it makes any difference. Thats going to be the hard part though unless I just buy one, cause I don't know anyone near me that has a powerstroke to borrow it from lol.

 

Well, here's another update. Got the truck back from the shop and decided I'd pull #3 and #5 injectors and see what they looked like. After pulling the valve cover I found a burnt up connector feeding injector #5 and #7. Only burnt on the 5 side though. So got new gasket that came with harnesses and pigtails for both sides. Also bought new orings for all 8 injectors. I replaced all the orings on the passenger side bank, and installed the new gasket and under cover harnesses. Did not put the new pigtails for the other side on yet as they appear to be fine. Also got new batteries (under warranty free of charge ) and a new fuel filter. So after buttoning it all up, she just cranked and cranked and cranked. Lots of white smoke, but not starting. Eventually it got to the point where it would try to catch, but wouldn't. I played with the hypertech programmer and programmed the stage 1 setting and after that the engine fired right up, idled for a few seconds then died and wouldn't restart. I tried a few more times and gave up and went inside for a few hours. Decided to go back out again and try a few more things, and after playing with the hypertech again, it fired up, idled on its own, and continued running. I left it running for 45 minutes revving it occasionally and also turning it off and restarting it a total of 3 times. It started and kept running fine everytime. So I don't know what is going on with it lol. I'm going to go out in a few hours and see if she'll fire up, and hopefully it will. If it does, I'll check it again in the morning. To me though, it seems like playing with the programmer and then getting results is too much of a coincidence to be overlooked? But who knows, I just hope it keeps restarting.

 

You just said you put a new fuel filter in. If so, then I bet it just took some cranking to get it going. I would try starting it in stock mode on the programmer. I thought you might of had a wiring harness problem earlier, glad you got that fixed. I would check your glow plugs too.

 

A couple of weeks ago I took my fuel bow out & drained it . After putting it back in with new lines , It started instantly ....

 

oops! Action, I was thinking of my buddies 6.0. He changed fuel filters and it took a while to get it going again. Jeepzj, disregard what I said about the fuel filter.

 

Extended cranking after injectors are pulled is very common unless you are refilling the HPOP and venting the heads after each crank attempt. It won't run right till you get the air out of the oil rails in the heads.

 

That make sense and maybe thats what was happening. We will see.

 

Yeah, I knew it would crank for awhile after pulling the injectors to get the air out. But I don't think I actually did anything to fix why it wasn't starting before.....But who knows, this truck is very random. However, I did come to find that it won't start unless plugged in for at least 3-4 hours. Glow plugs ohm out fine, and were newly replaced in April and the relay is brand new and working correctly according to a volt meter. I personally think its weak/worn injectors themselves, or the oil in the engine has been in for way too long and is breaking down and aerated. It is looking almost as black as my soul lol. So, gonna do an oil change including syphoning out the HPOP res, and replacing that oil too and see if there is any difference. If not, then come tax return time, this truck is getting a new set of injectors They do have 324k miles on them afterall, and all 4 that I pulled to replace orings on, had what appeared to be the factory orings on them still.