Yes, the fuel is good and clean, example is when I remove the fuel filter and look into the bowl, I can see through the fuel clearly to the bottom of the bowl. And yes, when I said gas I did in fact mean diesel. And I added 2 gallons to the rear tank as I thought I had run out and that was the reason for not staying running, but it wasn't as far as I can tell now. I had the valve covers off this morning, thinking I might have the quarter fix problem, but apparently that doesn't apply to the 97 because the connectors under there were different. But they were all tight and appeared good, along with the wiring. I was indeed careful putting the valve covers back on. The truck wants to start, and attempts to sputter to life with every turn of the key, it just won't catch and stay running, and the few times it does, it won't respond to throttle, and will always die again after 20-30 seconds of run time. I won't have a chance to work on it again till Sunday, but I am going to put a new cps in just in case that could be the problem. I am not that lucky though, but worth a shot. On A side note, while looking at the IPR tonight, I noticed that where the connector plugs into it, moves side to side, almost in a rotating fashion about 1/2 inch, is it supposed to do that?? Maybe on Sunday I can get a video of that so you can clearly see what I mean.

 

Does the IPR has the tin nut there? it fixes the solenoid and the movement side to side is incorrect, maybe thats your problem.

 

I don't know if the tin nut is there or not, there is too much in the way for me to see enough of the IPR. I'm really hoping this is going to be the cause of the problem. So on sunday, I'm going to replace the CPS, pull the fuel bowl and the IPR, and see whats going on with it, and why it has movement that it probably shoudn't.

 

The IPR solenoid shouldn't move at all

 

Yeah, I read on another site about the IPR, that if the tin nut is loose at all, it will cause the engine to run very rough, or not at all. Mine is also covered in quite a bit of oil and dirt, so I'd almost bet that the O-rings on it are shot. So, gonna pick up a rebuild kit for it, and come Sunday, I'll pull it, clean it, put the new o rings on, and reinstall it SECURELY!! Hopefully all the oil on it hasn't seeped in and ruined the solenoid....Keep your fingers crossed that this is in fact the problem. Because short of having the proper scanner, everything else seems to check out fine.

 

Well, I'm dead in the water...Don't know what to do from here. I replaced the CPS this morning, and tightened the tin nut on the IPR. Still won't start. I don't have the money to just keep throwing random parts at it and hope that it is the right one. So I guess the next step would be to find someone with the proper scanner and diagnose it that way. So on that note, anyone live in or near the Denver area that has a scanner and wants to give a guy a hand with his truck??

 

Well, even though it appears everyone lost interest in this thread, I'm going to update it anyway, cause I know when I was reading through no start threads, 99% of them never came to a conclusion and it was very frustrating.
So, I ended up giving up and towed the truck to a shop. My choices were to pay them $85 for diagnosis, or spend close to $400 for autoenginuity and do it myself. I opted for the cheaper route. The shop tested everything and it all checked out perfectly say for one thing... They weren't showing any crank signal coming from the CPS....yes, the one I had just bought and replaced. So don't know if I got a bad one out of the box, or if it needed to be shimmed to work properly or what, but I told the shop to just go ahead and replace it, and that should do the trick seeing how everything else is functioning as it should. So just wanted to conclude this thread and add that, even though the CPS was replaced and showing rpms while cranking, does not mean its sending the proper signals to the PCM and functioning correctly. So now hopefully I'll get the truck back in a few days running, and can begin the transmission rebuild that I'm really not looking forward to.

 

Good to hear an update.

Red

 

If you buy a CPS please get it from Ford. Don't get one from NAPA, autozone ect. They may last a few days or not work at all even new.

 

Thanks guys. Yeah the one I replaced myself was from advance auto. The shop will replace it with one ordered direct from Ford, so it should be a good one.

 

Subscribed and lurking. LOL

 

I was waiting to see if one had an scanner. But since here I should be asked to you: where did you buy the CPS?

Yes thank you for the update.

Totally agree with this.

PS: IF you feel that someone loose (spl?) the interest in your thread JUST make BUMP, because maybe we are

 

So, another update, this one not good at all. Talked to the shop today, and they got the CPS replaced and are getting a good crank signal now....but now he says its throwing codes for 1,3 and 5 injectors being bad!! I mean WTF!? How does this truck run one day, then 3 out of 4 injectors all on the same bank fail simultaneously?? I asked him if he was sure it wasn't a problem with the IDM and he said it was the injectors for sure. So now I need at least 3 injectors, and might as well replace them all. But this truck is gonna sit for awhile cause I just can't afford that right now. Anybody have any suggestions? Do we really think its injectors or possibly the IDM? I wish I had one to swap to test but I don't know anyone near me with a powerstroke. This has been a really frustrating day. And this is a pretty honest shop, I don't think they're just trying to make money off of me. I've used them in the past and they've always been good.

 

I'm skeptical.. THey are also the same ones that said everything else checked out & the CPS was the issue.. I wnat to know what they are seeing that indicates its the injectors . Are they using a gauge , one head at a time , cold & warm ? ..Are they using a scanner ? Did they bench test them ?

You should have purchased the scanner ...

 

Ok something else you need to check. I had a few injectors out one time too. Turned out the UVCH harnesses to the injectors were burnt. Replaced those and all was well. Take off the valve covers and inspect the wires under them. They like to short out.

Also the IDM could be a real issue.

One other thing, doesn't your signature say you have a Hypertech Programmer?? If so can't it read codes??

You need to read this too....http://www.ehow.com/how_7968350_trou...injectors.html

check the IDM Maxi-fuse No. 8 in the engine bay fuse box.