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Need Serious help!!!!

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Old Nov 28, 2012 | 11:53 AM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by fordpride
plug in the block heater if you have one
It was plugged in throughout all starting attempts. It does make it want to start easier, but still doesn't help keep it running.
 
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Old Nov 28, 2012 | 12:08 PM
  #17  
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Lightbulb

Other possibility is a weak starter, IDK.


 
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Old Nov 28, 2012 | 02:53 PM
  #18  
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Ok, so here's where I'm at. Almost positive it isn't the batteries or a weak starter. I think it may be fuel related. I thought it might be the UVCH that i've read about coming apart at the connector, so pulled the drivers side cover, and mine doesn't even have those kind of connectors. The ones I have clip on in a way that I don't think they'd ever come loose on their own. And they weren't loose at all. I checked fuel pressure at the schrader valve and its hitting 50 every time. HPOP res is full. The truck wants to start when ether is used. But just won't keep running. Could something be clogged?? What else is there for me to check?? This is getting really frustrating. I'm going to post a couple videos so you can hear what its doing.
 
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Old Nov 28, 2012 | 02:58 PM
  #19  
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Here are the vids. They show that it was running fine, and what its doing now.

IMG 1218 - YouTube

IMG 1219 - YouTube

IMG 1225 - YouTube
 
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Old Nov 28, 2012 | 04:54 PM
  #20  
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Have you ohmed the GP's ?

That is what it sounds like to me

GPR May be new ,are you sure the PCM is sending ground to it ?...

Clamp a jumper cable clamp on the two big posts on the gpr try starting it ...
 
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Old Nov 28, 2012 | 04:58 PM
  #21  
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Have you checked the fpr screen and fuel filter? I would get a 6637 air filter too.

Red
 
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Old Nov 28, 2012 | 05:13 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by Action4478
Have you ohmed the GP's ?

That is what it sounds like to me

GPR May be new ,are you sure the PCM is sending ground to it ?...

Clamp a jumper cable clamp on the two big posts on the gpr try starting it ...
Are you saying I need to jump the 2 big posts together, as if they were touching eachother??

And I haven't yet pulled that screen, i'll be going out in a few minutes to do that. And the fuel filter doesn't appear to be that dirty or clogged. It isn't very dark colored.
 
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Old Nov 28, 2012 | 05:19 PM
  #23  
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Yes to jumping the two big posts on the gpr. If you have a meter you can check for power coming out of the gpr too.

Red
 
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Old Nov 28, 2012 | 06:10 PM
  #24  
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Ok, just got back in from checking a few things, got dark quick so didn't have too much time, but I did jump the post on the gpr, didn't make a difference. Not to mention I've had the block heater plugged in all day and the engine is quite cozy and warm feeling. If the engine is warm, the gpr or glow plugs themselves wouldn't keep it from starting and running right? Tried checking the fpr screen, but am going to have to take a few other things loose as I don't have enough slack to pull that assembly far enough away from the bowl to get to the screen, and thats about when the sun set and I shut down for the night. Also, I got it to run again, but it wouldn't rev much over 1k rpms, maybe got to 1500 if I was lucky, then proceeded to die on its own. That was with holding the pedal to the floor and starting it. Only got it to do it once, then the rest of the time it does what it was doing in the last video, starting to start, then dying. I'm going to replace the cps just for the hell of it, and see if maybe that is it, thought I doubt it. Any other ideas?? Also, still only throwing the intake temp sensor code P0113, unless I crank too many times for too long, then the P0344 comes back. Could I be looking at a bad PCM here?? I am just at such a loss
 
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Old Nov 28, 2012 | 06:15 PM
  #25  
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The fpr screen is in the fuel bowl. Take the filter out and the screen is towards the top on the drivers side.

Red
 
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Old Nov 28, 2012 | 06:20 PM
  #26  
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Without a scan , we are only guessing . The FPR screen is only for the return to tank & is primarily for removing air from the system , it won't cause your problem ... In spite of the 50 PSI fuel pressure , is the bowl staying full?

Our pumps are 2 stage ...
 
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Old Nov 28, 2012 | 06:33 PM
  #27  
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Yeah, I could see the hole in the bowl where the screen is housed, but after removing the two 10mm bolts, there just wasn't enough slack with all the other stuff connected to that piece to pull it far enough away to be able to get the screen out. Will try again in the future. And yes, the fuel level in the bowl is always at about 3/4 full after removing the filter. When putting the filter in and displacing the fuel, I assume it fills the bowl to whatever its max level is. Or should the bowl be completely full despite not having the filter in it?? Also, I did notice some fuel in the valley back by the fuel pump and under the turbo....not sure if it was from me messing with the fuel bowl and filter so many times, or if the pump is actually leaking. I'll have to keep an eye on that. But with 50+ psi of fuel pressure, even if the pump is weaping, it shouldn't be causing this problem right??
 
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Old Nov 28, 2012 | 06:54 PM
  #28  
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Looking at your video and seeing some maintenance issues, such as no air filter I certainty would suspect poor prior maintenance. If you have no idea on past service my suggestion is to change the oil and oil filter before spending a lot of money on guessing. Injectors fire on good, clean and pressurized oil from the HPOP. Old crappy oil will have air bubbles in it and the HPOP can't do its job.

As a suggestion go to wall-mart and get three 5 quart jugs of Ford Power Stroke diesel oil and an oil filter FL1995, about $55.00. Change the oil, then before removing the oil filter punch a hole in the bottom on it and let it drain, otherwise it's a mess
 
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Old Nov 28, 2012 | 07:19 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by Hussler
Looking at your video and seeing some maintenance issues, such as no air filter I certainty would suspect poor prior maintenance. If you have no idea on past service my suggestion is to change the oil and oil filter before spending a lot of money on guessing. Injectors fire on good, clean and pressurized oil from the HPOP. Old crappy oil will have air bubbles in it and the HPOP can't do its job.

As a suggestion go to wall-mart and get three 5 quart jugs of Ford Power Stroke diesel oil and an oil filter FL1995, about $55.00. Change the oil, then before removing the oil filter punch a hole in the bottom on it and let it drain, otherwise it's a mess
The stock filter is gone, yes. But it wasn't run with no filter, it has a cone filter that was on the end of that intake tube, I just took it off whilst getting the truck started. But yeah I hear ya, on getting the oil changed.
 
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Old Nov 28, 2012 | 07:49 PM
  #30  
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Does the fuel look good and clean, if truck has been sitting awhile u may have bad fuel or stuff in tank, try changing fuel filter as well, my have algee or something in fuel, your first post said u put gas in it, i am assuming u meant diesel...

Your fuel in valley is more than likely from you taking the filter out and putting it back in

Yes glow plugs are under valve cover, if you take it off you can look at your injector harness and make sure they are all plugged in
If truck is pluged in it should start with out glow plugs

When u put valve cover back on be very very careful not to crush the wires in the valve cover gasket, it dosent take much to smash little wires in there that fire your injectors
 
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