What causes FICM failure?
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Senior User
Joined: Jul 2004
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From: Cold Lake, Ab
What causes FICM failure?
Hey guys,
Been having issues with the truck starting on cold mornings up here in Alberta.
I only use the truck every other week due to work schedule. So it sits for a week & when I go to fire her up she was slow & couple days needed a boost the batteries were so dead.
Ended up throwing in 2 brand new batteries & now still long crank times, loping idle when cold, smoking.
I pulled the FICM cover & did the test today.
-5C in the shop(not heated) truck parked for 12 hrs
12.78 V on the batteries
KOEO 47.8 V
Buzz test 22.25 V
Crank 35V
Stays at 35V when idling.
So talked with dealer & they never heard of weak batteries causing the FICM to fail. Only heat & age causing issues.
Well after reading all I could on this site I know it was the weak batteries & boosting the truck that caused it.... but why?
If the batteries are low & not enough juice then the FICM cant make 48V. How does this cause it to get even hotter & break down?
Now to pull it out & send to Ed for the repair.
$750 Cdn for reman so cant go wrong even with shipping down to Ed. Just not sure how long it will sit at customs?? Especially with XMas so close.
Been having issues with the truck starting on cold mornings up here in Alberta.
I only use the truck every other week due to work schedule. So it sits for a week & when I go to fire her up she was slow & couple days needed a boost the batteries were so dead.
Ended up throwing in 2 brand new batteries & now still long crank times, loping idle when cold, smoking.
I pulled the FICM cover & did the test today.
-5C in the shop(not heated) truck parked for 12 hrs
12.78 V on the batteries
KOEO 47.8 V
Buzz test 22.25 V
Crank 35V
Stays at 35V when idling.
So talked with dealer & they never heard of weak batteries causing the FICM to fail. Only heat & age causing issues.
Well after reading all I could on this site I know it was the weak batteries & boosting the truck that caused it.... but why?
If the batteries are low & not enough juice then the FICM cant make 48V. How does this cause it to get even hotter & break down?
Now to pull it out & send to Ed for the repair.
$750 Cdn for reman so cant go wrong even with shipping down to Ed. Just not sure how long it will sit at customs?? Especially with XMas so close.
FTE Leadership Emeritus
Joined: Sep 2003
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From: Houston, Texas
Two words: Weak batteries
The smart thing to do is to pick up and additional FICM off craigslist or the like cheap, ship that one off to Ed, get it upgraded, get it programmed, and sell your old one when you get it back from Ed.
The smart thing to do is to pick up and additional FICM off craigslist or the like cheap, ship that one off to Ed, get it upgraded, get it programmed, and sell your old one when you get it back from Ed.
Posting Guru
Joined: Jun 2012
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You might get the new FICM with a program/flash that doesn't do the buzz test. I have the latest Ford flash, it doesn't do any buzzing and my voltage stays at 48 volts through the entire cold start (same temps as you). Anyway, it's my belief that heat, vibration and age play a part, but electrical issues play a part too - there may be two different failure modes.
Brian
Brian
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Senior User
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 321
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From: Cold Lake, Ab
Thanks guys.
Not sure what mine has for programming? I know it deffinatly buzzes when key is turned on. Hasnt been to dealer in over 2yrs.
Just dont want it to fail on me & really be stranded in these temps. If I plan on pulling it then fine, truck in sit in shop & I wait.
Just wonder how long shipping would take & if any issues at the border/customs to get it down to Ed & back.?
Not sure what mine has for programming? I know it deffinatly buzzes when key is turned on. Hasnt been to dealer in over 2yrs.
Just dont want it to fail on me & really be stranded in these temps. If I plan on pulling it then fine, truck in sit in shop & I wait.
Just wonder how long shipping would take & if any issues at the border/customs to get it down to Ed & back.?
Junior User
Joined: Apr 2012
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is 48.5 - 49.5 FICM reading ok?...mine fluctuates between these numbers.
Also, just to note: My batteries were three years old. I took it to wallyworld for testing (twice) two different locations and they told me that the batteries were ok. But the "three year old numbers" had me some concerned. Anyways I swapped the batteries for new ones...and now truck runs a lot better. Alternator is a solid 13.6V -13.8 V. Cold starts battery reads 12.6V I think but it goes down when glowplugs kicks in. I have a new heater cord for cold starts installed and that helps it up even better imo.
Also, just to note: My batteries were three years old. I took it to wallyworld for testing (twice) two different locations and they told me that the batteries were ok. But the "three year old numbers" had me some concerned. Anyways I swapped the batteries for new ones...and now truck runs a lot better. Alternator is a solid 13.6V -13.8 V. Cold starts battery reads 12.6V I think but it goes down when glowplugs kicks in. I have a new heater cord for cold starts installed and that helps it up even better imo.
Posting Guru
Joined: Jun 2012
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FICM at over 47.5 is fine, at all stages of engine start. If it goes lower at any time it is suspect of starting to fail. Glow plugs suck the voltage down just below 12 volts on mine, the alternator brings it back to around 12.2 as soon as the engine starts, then it goes up to around 14 as soon as the glow plugs go off (actual voltmeter volts, the OBDII readers typical are around .2 volts lower than actual).
My experience, anyway...
Brian
My experience, anyway...
Brian
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If i remember right the FICM numbers went down (at cold starts before i got the heater cord and new batteries), but ill check again...so you are saying "at all stages" should be not less than 47.5v ? then i should check into replacing the FICM before it gets worst? how do i check in deep if injectors or ficm is going bad using scangauge II
I only have "ficm" readings and it throws like a said It fluctuates actually between 48.5 and 49.5 after it cranks up.
Thank you for the help..and I hope I'm not hijacking the thread with my questions.
I only have "ficm" readings and it throws like a said It fluctuates actually between 48.5 and 49.5 after it cranks up.
Thank you for the help..and I hope I'm not hijacking the thread with my questions.
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Posting Guru
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I guess the first thing I would suggest is get Ford dealer to flash the FICM to the latest flash program, that should eliminate the injector buzzing. The 48.5 - 49.5 is quite good, but that really doesn't say anything other than that's what the FICM is set for. It's performance under the highest load that matters, and that is at cold start-up. Two issues with start-up - the FICM is either inductively heating or buzzing the injectors to heat them up pre-start, which takes a lot of current, and the glow-plugs are on which pulls the battery voltage way down. The combo puts the highest stress on the FICM. The latest flash is easier on the FICM at cold start, from what I understand.
Brian
Brian
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Joined: Oct 2012
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is 48.5 - 49.5 FICM reading ok?...mine fluctuates between these numbers.
Also, just to note: My batteries were three years old. I took it to wallyworld for testing (twice) two different locations and they told me that the batteries were ok. But the "three year old numbers" had me some concerned. Anyways I swapped the batteries for new ones...and now truck runs a lot better. Alternator is a solid 13.6V -13.8 V. Cold starts battery reads 12.6V I think but it goes down when glowplugs kicks in. I have a new heater cord for cold starts installed and that helps it up even better imo.
Also, just to note: My batteries were three years old. I took it to wallyworld for testing (twice) two different locations and they told me that the batteries were ok. But the "three year old numbers" had me some concerned. Anyways I swapped the batteries for new ones...and now truck runs a lot better. Alternator is a solid 13.6V -13.8 V. Cold starts battery reads 12.6V I think but it goes down when glowplugs kicks in. I have a new heater cord for cold starts installed and that helps it up even better imo.
Tuned
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 301
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There was a version of the Flash known to put excessive stress on the FICM. This was known as the FICM Killer. You'll need to get the FICM repaired / replaced as well as re-assured that you are not running that version of the flash. Ed can flash the FICM (for a charge) which essentially gives the best of all worlds. Keep in mind though that if your truck is then flashed by Ford, the flash that Ed puts on would be overwritten.