Is there any way to replace the block heater without undergoing a baptism by many gallons of coolant? Presumably I should drain the radiator first?

My block heater isn't heating, and I'm pretty sure it's not the cord, but will do a resistance check in the element tonight before going further.

Thanks!

 

I would think that if it can't air, that it wouldn't leak much. So plug all the holes.

 

Drain the radiator, but it won't drain the block or the heater line/core. You're gunna get wet... I've done it and I just had everything ready to move fast. Make sure you have a bucket and more distilled water/coolant to replace the loss.

Anybody have better luck than I did?

 

I was thinking that 'being able to move fast' might buy me a minimal shower during the swap. It was 15F here today and the only thing worse than a coolant shower is getting one in the winter ;-).

I wonder if you could put a shop vac on the radiator cap to pull a vacuum as you replace this part - as is sometimes done with oil pan/oil plug repairs?

 

my crystal ball shows me a future for you.
in it there is a wettening...
you could maybe put on a rain slicker and be careful for the cuffs when the fluid starts flowing...

 

[/QUOTE]I wonder if you could put a shop vac on the radiator cap to pull a vacuum as you replace this part - as is sometimes done with oil pan/oil plug repairs?[/QUOTE]

You'll probably get a pretty good charge of coolant in your shop vac once the heater is removed?

 

Shop vac sounds like a good plan. Loosen the heater slowly with the vacuum on and see what happens. If it rushes out then move quickly. Can the degas bottle be damaged by vacuum?

 

Naaww. The degas bottle can take the full coolant pressure of 15 PSI. No shop vac can suck that in... but the hoses would look interesting. I don't know if there's something else in a system designed for pressure that would protest.

 

Perhaps I can have my wife modulate the shop vacuum seal against the degas bottle during the heater removal, to prevent huge amounts of antifreeze from going into the vacuum, but to still pull a vacuum. It wouldn't be the oddest job I have had her do in my auto restorations.

 

You could drain the block before you change the block heater. What I used on my truck was a 1/4 ball valve with a short nipple on one end and a hose barb on the other. Take the plug out, put the valve in and put a hose on the hoes barb and drain the block. I guess if you use a wet/dry vac and take the filter out you may be able to reuse to coolant.

Red

 

Use this as a good opertunity to do a coolant flush. Drain the radiator and pull the heater and let it flow. A small baby pool works great for catching all the fluid.

 

Report back on the shop vac. We use it in the fire sprinkler business to keep water from flooding when pulling drop sprinklers. It just mit work. Would like to here more on this. If it dosen't, you still have to move fast!

Chet

 

just wondering why areu replacing the element? are u sure its bad alot of times they dont work due to the cord being frayed at the plug

 

Well - my cord was cracked and broken at the heater element end. I will stop by O'Reilly's tonight to see if the cord included with their replacement block heater will fit the OEM block heater. I'd much rather swap the cord than the heater!

 

Steve- be very careful with the block heater cord. With some of them catching fire, I don't know that I'd trust anything but OEM.

Also- NEVER park a truck in a garage or under a carport with the block heater plugged in. Dealing with a truck fire is one thing. Having your house catch fire is way worse!