2 1/8" receiver size?
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Senior User
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 450
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2 1/8" receiver size?
My receiver has been loose since I picked it up a couple years ago. Measured it the other day because it was annoying me and it is 2 1/8", is that normal? The pin hole is still round and doesn't have signs of being stretched. It doesn't look abused or cracked, just some light wear. My other vehicles haven't been like this. With that much slop it seems like it will wear much faster...besides being annoying.
Cargo Master
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 2,790
Likes: 24
From: Mount Royal, NJ
Yes, the Ford Receivers are loose to start. Each manufacturer makes them with different amoounts of slop tolerance. Fords seem to have this problem a lot.
Some hitch tubes from manufacturers are exactly 2 inch, some bigger.
This apparently leaves hitch shank manufacturers in a lurch. Do they make the shanks undersize to fit the 2 inch holes, or exactly 2 inch to fit the oversize holes?
It seems most shanks are undersized to fit 2 inch holes. So, you end up with a LOT of slop around the shank on some receiver tubes. If they make the shank undersize by 1/8 all around and you have a tube that is 1/8 oversize, you can see the problem.
It is a crying shame that there is not a true industry standard to follow. Apparently even the manufacturers are frustrated by it too.
I asked a engineer/manufacturer about this (Andersen Hitch) and this was what he had to say aobut it:
Me:
"As with other drawbars I have used, there is quite a difference between the size of the drawbar and the sleeve in the receiver. Just out of curiosity, Why is there so much room designed in? (yes, I have a 2" receiver, not 2 1/2")"
Dave Andersen:
"The lack of tolerances from one vehicle manufacturer to the other on receiver tubes can be frustrating to all of us. We build to fit the tightest and the guys with a little bit of an oversized receiver get the extra slop that you are seeing. I wish there was an easy solution but I have not seen one that sounds reasonable or user-friendly."
Some hitch tubes from manufacturers are exactly 2 inch, some bigger.
This apparently leaves hitch shank manufacturers in a lurch. Do they make the shanks undersize to fit the 2 inch holes, or exactly 2 inch to fit the oversize holes?
It seems most shanks are undersized to fit 2 inch holes. So, you end up with a LOT of slop around the shank on some receiver tubes. If they make the shank undersize by 1/8 all around and you have a tube that is 1/8 oversize, you can see the problem.
It is a crying shame that there is not a true industry standard to follow. Apparently even the manufacturers are frustrated by it too.
I asked a engineer/manufacturer about this (Andersen Hitch) and this was what he had to say aobut it:
Me:
"As with other drawbars I have used, there is quite a difference between the size of the drawbar and the sleeve in the receiver. Just out of curiosity, Why is there so much room designed in? (yes, I have a 2" receiver, not 2 1/2")"
Dave Andersen:
"The lack of tolerances from one vehicle manufacturer to the other on receiver tubes can be frustrating to all of us. We build to fit the tightest and the guys with a little bit of an oversized receiver get the extra slop that you are seeing. I wish there was an easy solution but I have not seen one that sounds reasonable or user-friendly."
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Senior User
Joined: Nov 2010
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Thanks for the info, kina what I figured. Our '04 Explorer was spot on, with next to no play. Always made me a bit nervous to leave a drawbar in very long, didn't was it to seize up. But I'd rather deal with that. I've been trying to figure out how to fab up a steel sleeve that would fill the space, but not fall apart/be unsafe.
Bleed Ford Blue
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 13,578
Likes: 157
From: Anchorage Alaska
i dont think my Ex ever towed or very little as its pretty tight. but my '98 expedition(that never towed before i had it) is much tighter. i'm scared to leave the shank in it longer then a week for fear of not being able to get it out.
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 11,798
Likes: 14
From: Mt. Shasta California
2 1/8 isn't that much, they have to have some lee way to accept a hitch that might be too big and allow for corrosion etc. That is a perfect size actually. The hitch isn't going anywhere.
Elder User
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 749
Likes: 2
From: Phoenix, Az
IMHO: There is a manufacturing tolerance for HSS (or TS= tube steel). Hitch makers have to allow for this tolerance on the receiver as well as the drawbar. There is also welded tube and seamless tube. All these can make a difference in fit between the parts. I don't have the tolerance specs handy here at home. I do know that different steel shapes can be as much as 1/4" difference in actual size.
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Lead Driver
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 5,420
Likes: 16
From: Ouray, CO
My receiver on my former Tahoe was T I G H T. It was a real PITA
to install/remove the hitch. I had to use a hammer numerous times.
If the hitch had ANY rust on the sides
I had to lightly sand it smooth to get it installed.
My Jeep on the other hand, makes SOOO much banging 'cause the
receiver is too big - I found the blanks from electrical boxes snug
it up nicely - and 1) I get lots of them 2) they are free.
to install/remove the hitch. I had to use a hammer numerous times.
If the hitch had ANY rust on the sides
I had to lightly sand it smooth to get it installed.
My Jeep on the other hand, makes SOOO much banging 'cause the
receiver is too big - I found the blanks from electrical boxes snug
it up nicely - and 1) I get lots of them 2) they are free.
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More Turbo
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 609
Likes: 3
From: Central Va
best thing I ever bought for my X
Hitch stabilizer: no wobble, anti rattle device for hitch accessories
Hitch stabilizer: no wobble, anti rattle device for hitch accessories
Posting Guru
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 1,198
Likes: 2
From: Tulsa, OK
best thing I ever bought for my X
Hitch stabilizer: no wobble, anti rattle device for hitch accessories
Hitch stabilizer: no wobble, anti rattle device for hitch accessories
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 450
Likes: 1
At any rate, it's obviously a common problem. After thinking about it, besides the Explorer all my vehicles have had aftermarket receivers on them, which fit the manufacturers draw bar well...funny how that works.
I really like the idea of welding some pads on, but then I'll need to weld pads on everything and that's a lot of work, LOL.(since I don't have a welder or grinder...yet) As always you guys have some great ideas.
Hotshot
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 13,484
Likes: 42
From: Stevens Point, WI
A hitch with a wedge type system would be great for the different size receivers. Still have the retaining pin but also a wedge with a bolt or nut that could be tightened down to tighten up the hitch in the receiver.
Similar to the piston style tool post I made for my lathe. There is a cam that pushes on a pin which in turn pushes on the tool holder to lock it into position. There are similar tool holders that instead of a pin, spread the tapers (wedge) to lock the tool holder in place.
Pics to try and help explain:
parts explosion of the whole tool post:
Body and cam side by side. You can see the hole where the piston/pin resides.
The tool holder slides onto the tapers, when you turn the cam which pushes the piston out into the tool holder it tightens the holder against the tapers:
This is the final finished product, the one handle is for bolting (holding) the entire tool post down to its base, the second handle is for the cam to lock the tool holders in place.
A somewhat similar system built into the receiver or hitch could do a similar thing. Probably not to hold the hitch into the receiver itself but to hold it tight in the receiver.
Similar to the piston style tool post I made for my lathe. There is a cam that pushes on a pin which in turn pushes on the tool holder to lock it into position. There are similar tool holders that instead of a pin, spread the tapers (wedge) to lock the tool holder in place.
Pics to try and help explain:
parts explosion of the whole tool post:
Body and cam side by side. You can see the hole where the piston/pin resides.
The tool holder slides onto the tapers, when you turn the cam which pushes the piston out into the tool holder it tightens the holder against the tapers:
This is the final finished product, the one handle is for bolting (holding) the entire tool post down to its base, the second handle is for the cam to lock the tool holders in place.
A somewhat similar system built into the receiver or hitch could do a similar thing. Probably not to hold the hitch into the receiver itself but to hold it tight in the receiver.
Junior User
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 77
Likes: 0
My solution was to drill a hole in the side of my hitch and then weld a nut to the hole. When I have to much slop, I stick a bolt in the hole and tighten it against the shank and remove all the slop.
I haven't done this to my Ex hitch yet but it worked like a charm on my other truck which was pulling 9K+ from time to time.
I haven't done this to my Ex hitch yet but it worked like a charm on my other truck which was pulling 9K+ from time to time.
FTE Chapter Leader
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 11,273
Likes: 100
From: North Dakota
My hitch is tight as can be.
But u guys do realize, it's illegal in some states to drive around with that insert in your hitch. Plus, I've seen frames bend from getting rear ended with a insert in the hitch at the time. Ya the body n bumper was not dented, but a bent frame is no good
But u guys do realize, it's illegal in some states to drive around with that insert in your hitch. Plus, I've seen frames bend from getting rear ended with a insert in the hitch at the time. Ya the body n bumper was not dented, but a bent frame is no good
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Senior User
Joined: Nov 2010
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I don't drive with it in, I just don't like a 500-600lb tongue to make the drawbar slam when it bounces. �� Can't be good on anything when that happens. Much less the guys who tow closer to max weight.