ok, so i figured out how to do the buzz test. but what exactly should i be listening for. as some of you no i think i've got some clogged injectors due to dirty fuel i put in my tank.
it was getting dark and cold when i figured out how to do the test so i'm going to do it again today.
i heard all 8, then counted 8 one by one, so they are all buzzing. they all sounded about the same, not real loud and maybe not so crisp.
so what does this tell me ?
are they fine. or could they still have blockage and buzz anyway.
have i eliminated some of the causes, " uvch connections" problem.

whats your opinion? not the best speller

 

When you do a buzz test it only test the electrical side of the injector.
Do one buzz test with engine cold then another with engine up to temp.
They should be loud and crisp.
Then do a Cylinder contribution test (CCT)

 

Cold buzz test in stereo... good injectors.

 

Here is a some good insight on the buzz test from International:

 

thanks for that guys, i'll be rechecking the buzz and doing the cct .
but what about my other questions, have i eliminated anything ?
also, is the cct a koeo or a koer, i dont want to be sad after the fact.

 

CCT is KOER...you will get an error if you try to do it with the engine off. What it does is drops one cylinder at a time while the truck is running and takes measurements of the results. You can hear the engine change pitch/sound while the cylinders are dropping out one by one during the test.

 

The engine needs to be at temp for the CCT to get a reading. If you have the gray CPS you might get false reading on #3 and #8 injector.

 

ok, i ran the buzz test 2x, first time i heard what sounded like 2 of them not as loud. second time. all about the same.
then ran the "cct" got codes p0263,p0269,p0272 cylinders 1,3 and 4 say, injector circuit contribution fault.
so what is that telling me.

 

it was installed 2 years ago, ford recall . not sure of the color

 

That probably confirms that you have some injectors that were affected by the bad fuel or something else...Make sure you run the test with the engine at normal operating temps.

 

Nothing really. I mean, you could spend a lot of money throwing parts at the truck and hoping for the best.......

What in the world is your truck doing that gives you the impression that something is wrong? Cylinder contribution tests and buzz tests are a huge waste of time (and money when people start replacing stuff "just because") if the truck runs good.

 

here is the story about what happen with the truck.
awhile back i put diesel fuel in my truck from a tank that used to be a home heating oil tank, we was using that old tank to transport fuel. i was told it was a clean tank , ready to go. i asked first, he lied. long story short, it had a couple inches of setiment / sludge type build up in the bottom of the tank . that went in my truck.
within a matter of hours it clogged my filter so bad the truck just slowley came to a stop on the side of the road. foot to the floor it would only idle. removed the filter and beat it on the ground, put it back . the truck would go, but it had no power to speak of. done that several times before i could get to a new filter. put in the new filter, it lasted 2 days before in was loaded up and the truck still had hardley any power. so, five fuel filters later along with dropping the tank and cleaning the foot and both round pick up screens, the truck still runs terrible. took it to a diesel shop they pluged it in to a laptop told me , two cyclinders were not firing. so, thats what leads me to believe i probily got some injector problems.

 

I think you have clogged nozzles as well. A breakout box with the ability to kill one injector at a time, or pulling the VCs and unplugging one injecor at a time (power off and restart) will be the closest you can come to confirm. I have a high speed camera and I did a vid of the oil coming out of a bad injector. Plenty of oil - bad nozzle. No or little oil - bad poppit valve, loose plate, or injector signal. Good buzz test after little or no oil - bad poppit valve or loose plate. Good buzz and no fire usually means something's going on with the guts in the injector.

 

clogged is exactly what i been thinking all along. so i'm gonna take a chance and pull those 3 after i do some uvc test. and try to clean them up myself.

 

The fact that you had bad fuel, you addressed the filters and the screens, but what about the inlet screen to the fuel pump? Do you know what your fuel pressure is? Even a quick/cheap temporary gauge plumbed to the fuel bowl drain will help get those numbers if not. You could still have a fuel restriction.