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1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck

Why a 3g Alternator?

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Old Nov 25, 2012 | 09:22 AM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by BeerCan500

Anyway the block is at the machine shop getting hot tanked and checked and if good, will probably be bored no more than .030". I am thinking of having the new pistons (.030 over I hope) decked or shaved .020 or .030 for the turbo install but not sure if I should do that just yet...everything else will be stock with reman heads.
I would not deck the block. That would raise the compression ratio even further, and that's not what you want on a engine with a turbo unless you are going to keep the boost very very low. The later Ford powerstrokes run a lower compression ratio so they can run more boost safely. That's part of the reason why they seem dead until the turbo kicks in.

The main thing you need to do on the rebuilt 6.9 engine is buy and install the ARP stud kit for bolting down the heads. The 6.9's used small bolts to hold the heads in place, and if you run a lot of boost with the turbo, the studs help keep the heads down on the block so the headgasket won't blow out.
 
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Old Nov 25, 2012 | 09:41 AM
  #17  
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From: Charles Town, W bygod Va
Originally Posted by Franklin2
I would not deck the block. That would raise the compression ratio even further, and that's not what you want on a engine with a turbo unless you are going to keep the boost very very low. The later Ford powerstrokes run a lower compression ratio so they can run more boost safely. That's part of the reason why they seem dead until the turbo kicks in.

The main thing you need to do on the rebuilt 6.9 engine is buy and install the ARP stud kit for bolting down the heads. The 6.9's used small bolts to hold the heads in place, and if you run a lot of boost with the turbo, the studs help keep the heads down on the block so the headgasket won't blow out.
He said deck the pistons
 
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Old Nov 25, 2012 | 09:54 AM
  #18  
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Head Studs & Relays

Originally Posted by Franklin2
I would not deck the block. That would raise the compression ratio even further, and that's not what you want on a engine with a turbo unless you are going to keep the boost very very low. The later Ford powerstrokes run a lower compression ratio so they can run more boost safely. That's part of the reason why they seem dead until the turbo kicks in.

The main thing you need to do on the rebuilt 6.9 engine is buy and install the ARP stud kit for bolting down the heads. The 6.9's used small bolts to hold the heads in place, and if you run a lot of boost with the turbo, the studs help keep the heads down on the block so the headgasket won't blow out.
First...Relays and running lights...I think the way you described doing it will work great...My problem with relays was I didn't know why one was needed nor how to power it...your description explains how to power it ans I think it will take some load off of the light switch itself. I think that's what I couldn't figure out...That should allow me to install not one but two relays...one for the truck and one for the trailer...Of course I would have to remember to flip both switches on.

Second...The 6.9 overhaul...I already have ARP Head Studs, Gaskets, Seals, & Bearings for everything...Only thing I don't have yet are the pistons, rings, and heads...

I am not sure what you mean about decking the block...I was thinking of shaving the pistons to lower compression a bit for the Hypermax Turbo and intercooler...That's what I'm not sure of yet...the shaved pistons...I like the plug & play of the hypermax...plus it would be a lot easier for me vs. coming up with all the parts to put a turbo system together....

I am not looking for extreme boost...just in the 10 to 15 range. The lower compression with head studs in my mind is to protect the head gaskets so I hope to not ever have to deal with that, but like I said...I am just thinking that way, but I could be very wrong in my thinking...I know that from many years of wrong thinking under my belt. But I guess that's part of the territory when one tries to do everything without going to the experts or just buying a complete drop in engine...
 
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Old Nov 25, 2012 | 09:58 AM
  #19  
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Whiter Whites, Brighter Brights .: Articles
That is the headlight relay article, it should help you understand how relays work which you can apply to other electrical circuits.
 
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Old Nov 25, 2012 | 10:24 AM
  #20  
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Whiter Whites

Originally Posted by bashby
Whiter Whites, Brighter Brights .: Articles
That is the headlight relay article, it should help you understand how relays work which you can apply to other electrical circuits.
Hey thanks bashby...I forgot that was in the stickies...see my old brain needs help LOL...
 
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Old Nov 25, 2012 | 10:37 AM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by Franklin2
I did a quick look at the link above, and didn't see any links to relaying the running lights.
Right, there isn't, and neither do I remember seeing such a thing discussed here. I posted that because it contains some good 3G swap info from the past.
 
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Old Nov 25, 2012 | 10:30 PM
  #22  
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i installed a relay on the running lights of my f250 a couple years ago, and it works just fine. just have the parking light circuit of the OEM switch control the relays, and you have no extra switches to worry about. the PO wants one for the truck and another for the trailer, great, run two relays both controlled by the headlight switch. all the work is hidden, and you don't have to remember what 12 different switches do
 
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Old Nov 26, 2012 | 02:38 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by bashby
He said deck the pistons
Sorry, I missed that. I am used to have the block "decked" or the pistons "shaved".
 
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