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2000 Alternator issue

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Old Sep 15, 2005 | 10:23 PM
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Question 2000 Alternator issue

Got a 2000 Ranger, V6 Flex, Manual. Anybody know what would cause the (+) connection on the alternator to 'melt' and become disconnected (this is is the wire which connects back to the battery). The wire 'melted' at the connector to the alternator. I'm hoping that it was a only a short in alternator causing the battery to quickly dischage through that connection verses bigger electrical issue. Common problem??
 
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Old Sep 16, 2005 | 07:59 PM
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Thats a new one for me. That would be my first thought.
 
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Old Sep 17, 2005 | 08:38 AM
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Like Ken, seems to me it's likely some kind of internal alternator problem, as it should have blown a inline fuseable link if it were downstream from the alternator!!!!

I'd pull the alternator & have a no cost bench test done, at your favorite autoparts store.

If it checks out ok, then you'll have to look further downstream for the problem.

Using a multimeter to check for shorts on the B+ line & if you have a blown inline fuseable link. These could provide clues as to how far you'll have to probe.

I've found a 12 vot test light & battery charger, with a analog amp meter & inline circuit breaker, set on a low state of charge, say two amps, can be used to test out the B+ wiring for shorts, or continuity, if you don't have a multimeter.

Let us know what you find, as this isn't a common problem as far as I have heard.
 
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Old Sep 17, 2005 | 04:00 PM
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It could have been some corrosion that ate away at the terminal and what bit of it was left wasn't making enough contact to support the load of the electrical system without overheating. The power wire to my Mustang's alternator was melted in a couple of spots due to corrosion inside the in-line connector between the alternator and starter relay. Ford has a habit of using too small cabling and connectors going to/from the alternator. When you fix the wiring, run a 6 gauge cable from the alternator to the starter relay terminal, eliminate the factory fusable link and install a heavy duty 175 amp fuse.
 
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Old Sep 19, 2005 | 10:39 AM
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Diagnosed as bad alternator. Only $127 and 20 minutes of my time and the back running like before. That was by far the easist one I've changed. Also, looked around and didn't find any corrosion.
 
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Old Sep 19, 2005 | 11:06 AM
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Good find fix & fedback on the alternator!!

Good to hear your back on the road & charging norally.

I hope you recharged the battery slowly with a good charger, & aren't letting the new alternator do it, as that can over work the new alternator & put too many amps into the battery, over heating it & causing the plates to warp, boil the electrolite & otherwise do bad things that'll shorten the battery & alternators life.

So be sure to do a proper, nice & slow, battery recharging cycle, before you drive it!!!!
 
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