The governor produces a pressure that is proportional to speed. As the vehicle slows governor pressure drops, which causes the transmission to downshift.

Not overidden, but modified. Modify the governor to produce more pressure at lower speeds. This will make the upshifts at lower speeds.

 

I posted back in post #6 above how to change the shift points by replacing the springs in the governor body to weaker springs.



/

 

It's been a couple of days now and i did nothing yet...
I have to wait to Dec.6 when i get a MRI (Trouble with neck/shoulder, left hand numb)

I took a look into the Shift Kit Installation Instructions.

- Harsh initial engagement ->
High line pressure
Sticking valves in valve body
2-3 accumulator valve stuck

- Incorrect shift points ->
TV linkage out of adjustment
worn govenor
Sticking valves in valve body

- No 1-2 upshift ->
TV linkage out of adjustment
Govenor valve sticking
Sticking valve in valve Body


Well... It sounds like i have probably some sticking valves.
I'm starting to think i need an OR for the valve body
Everywhere else is too dirty

The Constant Pressure Valve Body sounds not bad.
I think about it as "Plan B" if everything else fails.
But i will take a closer look at the governor.

 

Moving on.

My suspicion has been confirmed.
2 sticking valves.

But I didn't check the govenor yet

This time I had them put out, polished them with metal polish, put them in the ultrasonic clenser and clensed the shaft with a bottle brush for paintguns and benzine.



But one thing was also faulty:
The upper Gasket of the seperator plate didn't fit for a 100%
I can push it left and right, but some holes are always partitially ore total covered

If i push the gasket so together that all holes are free, it stands up in a litttle wave in the middle.
It's like the gasket is too wide.





Another thing I've noticed:

At the bottom of the oil pan i putted in some neodymium Magnets and i was running the engine just for a couple of minutes and drove only in the driveway.
The magnets are covered with a lot of black stuff.
not really covered, but a lot of black stuff is at the bottom of the oil pan.

I took some pictures





One of the magnets I wiped clean th demonstrate the difference in size.
They are 5mm x 5mm x 2mm (0,196in x 0,196in x 0,078in)

The Blackness itself I don't find concerning, but the sand-like structure in the top of the picture.
But it is no sand - it also crumbled into this metallic sludge.
And the bid oil that stayed in the pan had an metallic glimmer.


Now is it just loosen dirt that had stayed in the Gearbox, because the first oil change was after 20 years or is the transmission trying to tell that a big damage is to come?

 

That's a common problem. The gasket will swell when it absorbs humidity from the air. Heat it at 250°F (170°C) for 5 minutes to drive the humidity out of the gasket. It will shrink back to fitting 100%. Assemble it soon after heating, it will reabsorb humidity and swell again.

 

Thanks for the tip.

So I made myself a Pizza and afterwards i "baked" the gasket.



It fits better than ever, but there was a lot of ATF on the Gasket.
I wiped it off, but that was not enough.




The whole oil vaporized and my kitchen was filled with smoke.
I opened wide the window -> today was -3°C (26°F), so the smoke looked thicker in the cold.

I wonder what the neighbours thought....

 

How's the next pizza going to taste?

Sixto
'93 E150 Chateau 5.8 185K miles

 

The Oven smelled funny a couple of times after

But the ***** has hit the fan.

I got everything back together and now the tranny shifts at round 4000rpm and has no more reverse...

I checked the governor and it was fine and i cleaned it anyway.

My mood is between "sick & tired" and "sell the turd in pieces".
Mostly because i had to push the Beast backwards alone, because no one was there and i have 2 spinal disc hernitations - one in the lower back and one in the neck.

Now i'm thinking about take the Transmission compleatly out, clean and check everything.
And if that fails: I found out a AT-Workshop is around the corner.

 

Alright, I took the tranny out and had taken it apart.

The direct and intermediate clutch are worn - the friction material is gone on one side of each disc.





The problem what i have now is that there are 3 different sets of intermediate clutches in my repair kit.

The only difference is the thickness.
But how can I tell which one is the right?

Measuring the old ones seems to pointless.

 

Side Note: Back when my dog destroyed my AOD, by nudging shift lever from OD to Rev, while driving 65 mph, the quest to fix it taught me a couple of things.

First, was surprised & disappointed that a used AOD from common F-150 didn't fit. Expert advice claiming you could just swap tailshafts proved false.

Second, was surprised to find a used AOD from Lincoln Towncar did fit. It had the same length tailshaft '92 vintage.

Rebuilt original E-150 AOD & replaced critical/expensive component w/used parts out of Lincoln car AOD, that had fractured case b/c of hit from below.

 

I got it figured it out.

I've overseen that there are 2 intermediate Clutches.
Now I have only 3 orange Friction Discs left.

The Problem with a spare Transmission is the availability here in Germany.
"Just take another from the Junkyard" is easy in America - but here there is none

The cheapest "new one" would cost me 2.200$.
Including freight

So the alternatives are "Rebuild on my own", "Let it be rebuild" or "buy another Van"

 

Things always seem soooooooooo easy to those NOT working on something right Cobra-Kai? Everyone's a genius on the internet!

I couldn't imagine trying to work on something where parts availability is so challenging to find and receive. We're lucky in the US that most vehicles sold
are also supported so well.

I've followed this for a bit now and hope once this is all sorted out its trouble free for a long long time to come. Thanks for your contribution here!

 

There are no springs in a governor that can be changed to lower or raise shifts.

That can only be accomplished by installing a different valve.

 

Knowing the Econoline AOD was the same as Lincoln AOD expands the possibilities "where parts availability is so challenging to find and receive".

Here "in the US" I couldn't find an Econoline AOD locally when needed, but a Lincoln AOD was EZ to find.

Everyone's a critic on the internet!

 

TransGo Governor Recalibration Kits AOD-HIREV - SummitRacing.com


I didn't look it up if I mentioned it in previous posts in this thread, but Ford USA and Ford Europe act if they are 2 different Companies.

I can go to any Ford distributor and ask which parts for the Econoline I can get -> the answer is always "none"

It's not really a matter of finding and receiving, more a matter of money.
There are several "US-Car-Specialists" here.
I usually order replacement parts at Rockauto or Summit Racing.
If I compare the prices to those of the specialists, than the parts directly form the USA are often half as cheap as here in Germany.


But now some "non-technical"-Problems occur.
The bands don't look so good, so I want to replace them as well.
I ordered them at Summit, but they have it not in stock.
The expectet arrival is Feb.10 -> The usual delivery time is a week later.
But on Feb.13 I have a appointment in the Hospital to get a spinal disc in my neck removed.
After that I'm not allowed to lift any heavy weights - so I need to find someone to put the Transmission in place.
The periphery around I hope I can hook up myself.

The other problem is that the property where my parking space is, will be sold and I need to find another place.
My father got me a new place next to his boat, but I don't know when my Eco has to be gone.
Otherwise I have to find a way to move the Van around 20 miles without a Transmission