<hr style="color:#D1D1E1; background-color:#D1D1E1" size="1"> Early 2003 6.0 have had a ongoing drive ability issue. Loss of power and or black smoke. Checked FCIM voltage all within parameters. Replaced fuel pump and filters and installed ispro fuel guage and blue spring kit. Fired it up still same problem Fuel pressure at 57 steady. So no codes thinking turbo. Remove find it sooty and sticking ie not moving freely. Cleaned it up and inspected all looked good light coat of anti size and reinstall. Same problem now code p0237 Turbo low voltage. So I replaced MAP sensor. Still no joy after starting twice and restarting. Tried MAF sensor on second restart it idled best it has in long time. Took it for ride ran great but still black smoke on heavy acceleration and some grey/whit smoke at idle in gear or when stop and go to reverse( this smoke has no antifreeze smell and coolant level unchanged and egr valve dry). Drive about thirty miles all good but not right. Take it to work next morning and 1 mi into ride fuel gauge shows fuel pressure going from 45 to 55psi every couple seconds for whole 8 mile drive to work. Confirmed this fluctuation with mechanical gauge and also noticed that fuel filter on engine has less than a half inch of fuel in bowel. Truck lost power and stalled , on restart ran fine, stalled out twice more on ride home. Could a bad injector be allowing combustion back thru fuel rail into fuel bowel and air is causing erratic fuel pressure? Read as much as I can just not connecting the dots. Am willing to try to get this on my own with some help. Pulling my hair out any help is appreciated.

 

Sounds like maybe 2 (or more) issues. MAP sensor was a good call for the P0237. Did you check the hose and nipple on the intake for obstructions? Might be an issue there or the harness to the MAP. An OBDII monitor would be helpful to watch what it is actually doing.
The fuel pressure is low. Should be 50-60 psi with original spring and as much as 10psi higher with the blue spring at WOT so possible a fuel supply issue, filters or pump.
The smoking could be injectors, I would do the bubble test next. Instructions in the Tech folder. I think I remember seeing a video but I can't find the link for you. Smoking could also be EGR valve, if it sticks it cause some smoking and power loss as well.

 

Thanks for the reply's here is what i found. Plenty of bubble did not go further trying to identify the cylinder figured on removal it will be apparent. Am going to replace copper and O rings on all eight. Hell been without truck for a month now whats a couple more weeks. Part for O rings is 3cz-9229-aa ?? is that what i need times eight? and do i need to do O ring on high pressure oil rail(or is that in the 3cz922-aa kit), could not find correct part number. Also have tried to erase code p0237 but it wont go away. Saw set of 8 injector victor O ring on parts geek or should I stick with motorcraft.

 

try hotshots secret additive. I just got mine today, suppose to take care of stiction....
I`ll let you know if it works..

 

Ok puled all the injectors and replaced the o rings and cooper gasket. A couple looked questionable nothing really jumped out but no more bubbles. Job was not to bad once u figure out the injector plug. A nice trick is to use a stuby wrench to twist the plug back in just a 1/4 inch turn back and forth till it clicks in. Replaced fuel pump also. This greatly reduced the fuel pressure fluctuation. I took regulator apart and found no o ring behind the black sleeve for the brass spring cup got a new one and viola steady 67psi. Now I still have heavy white smoke acceleration and light at idle. Seemed to run good but not happy about smoke so im parking her. Pull the egr tomorrow if the rain holds off.

 

this DTC is the Answer to your problems ESPECIALY since it wont go away

<TABLE style="WIDTH: 681pt; BORDER-COLLAPSE: collapse" border=0 cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=0 width=908><COLGROUP><COL style="WIDTH: 77pt; mso-width-source: userset; mso-width-alt: 3730" width=102><COL style="WIDTH: 86pt; mso-width-source: userset; mso-width-alt: 4205" width=115><COL style="WIDTH: 237pt; mso-width-source: userset; mso-width-alt: 11556" width=316><COL style="WIDTH: 281pt; mso-width-source: userset; mso-width-alt: 13714" width=375><TBODY><TR style="HEIGHT: 12.75pt" height=17><TD style="BORDER-BOTTOM: black 0.5pt solid; BORDER-LEFT: black 0.5pt solid; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent; WIDTH: 77pt; HEIGHT: 12.75pt; BORDER-TOP: black 0.5pt solid; BORDER-RIGHT: black 0.5pt solid" class=xl66 height=17 width=102>P0237</TD><TD style="BORDER-BOTTOM: black 0.5pt solid; BORDER-LEFT: black; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent; WIDTH: 86pt; BORDER-TOP: black 0.5pt solid; BORDER-RIGHT: black 0.5pt solid" class=xl66 width=115>MAP</TD><TD style="BORDER-BOTTOM: black 0.5pt solid; BORDER-LEFT: black; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent; WIDTH: 237pt; BORDER-TOP: black 0.5pt solid; BORDER-RIGHT: black 0.5pt solid" class=xl65 width=316>Turbo/Super Charger Boost Sensor A Circuit Low</TD><TD style="BORDER-BOTTOM: black 0.5pt solid; BORDER-LEFT: black; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent; WIDTH: 281pt; BORDER-TOP: black 0.5pt solid; BORDER-RIGHT: black 0.5pt solid" class=xl65 width=375>Open circuit, short to ground, MAP sensor</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>

with a New MAP sensor sounds like a Wire harness issue to MAP sensor

tripple check make shure it plugged in good and Fulley

take a DVM and check wires from MAP to PCM for continuity

and then unhook Batterys for 30 min headlights on then hook back up see if it returns the P0237 if it comes back after a reset like this then its definatly the Issue or 1 of them anyway

An 03 relies alot on the MAP sensor

 

Today I Cleaned the egr was dry not wet. O ring was nicked. Replaced them. Put two new batteries in cause it was a weak crank (three years old) and they are cheaper than the FCIM. Cranked her up after clearing the p0237 and it stayed cleared, the map plug was loose. Idle was smooth fired right up. Power good, boost good, Whitish smoke at idle and black on hard accelerate. Filters all good(air &fuel). Not puking and not loosing any anti freeze. WTF I am open to suggestions. Gonna put another 50 mi on her and will be changing the oil and adding rev x. Had a quater tank filled her up just in case. I had the turbo out and did not do the turbo reprogram, should I have?? Or should I just run her hard till it clears up.

 

I want to resurrect this thread as we are struggling with the P0237 code. It gets thrown immediately upon turning ignition key to ON position. We do not need to start the engine to get the code. I see above this could be wire harness related. We checked continuity from MAP to PCM. Two wires are ok, but the Green w/Black is not continuous over to PCM. Connectors are good as we checked each end a few inches up from connector. The green w/Black is not making it all the way to PCM. Is it supposed to? where might it be open?

 

Should read at PCM pin 41 of connector c1381b / 12A581. Wire color is still LG/BK at that plug.

 

We don't have continuity. Now we have run a jumper and the code still flashes upon ignition ON.

 

Original wire out of the circuit for now? I was looking at a pin-out of the PCM plugs on my reply above. I don't have a full print of the circuit. Maybe sensor is bad also? Are you confident the device's force clear is working properly or are you disconnecting battery?

 

MAP sensor testing/Voltages
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...r-voltage.html

 

No we are not disconnecting the battery. We have replaced the MAP sensor Will try the battery.

 

Also look for harness chaffing where the main harness goes under the air cleaner/filter

 

This may be a moot point but are there any loss of performance issues related to this code or just code alone that will not clear? I did eventually replace the MAF and MAP sensors before replacing all the injectors and getting the code to clear. While replacing injectors gave good exam of harness did not find any wear. 3000 plus and have not had a occurrence of this again.