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Hey guys, I have a 95 SCSWB 4.9 m5od and I was looking into the zf swap. Everything looks good until I get to the driveshaft. Does the Sterling rear have the same setup as the 8.8 only with the slip joint to accomodate the zf fixed output yoke? What has everyone who has done this swap used for a driveshaft? Most of the info I see is for the 4WD crowd. I can deal with having a stock F250 2wd shaft shortened if there isnt a stock unit for this. Any info would be great.
Last edited by Machman; Nov 19, 2012 at 06:00 PM.
Reason: forgot year
When I swapped from a 4-speed, I bought a used driveshaft from an F250 with the same wheelbase as my truck thinking it would bolt straight in. It was a two-piece driveshaft with the carrier bearing in the middle and the slip joint just behind. However, the 10.25" axle yoke is about 3" farther forward than the 8.8 yoke. The front half of the driveshaft was fine, I just had to go to a driveshaft shop and have them re-tube the rear half 3" longer to match the rear half of the original F150 driveshaft and reach the 8.8 yoke.
As for finding a suitable driveshaft, I don't know if the carrier bearing of a two-piece driveshaft mounts in the same place relative to the engine on all wheelbase trucks or if it moves based on wheelbase and axle options. I imagine that you could use a one-piece driveshaft with a slip joint in the driveshaft if you could find one or have one made if the wheelbase of your truck is too short for a two-piece driveshaft, but I do not know for sure. My truck is a 133" wheelbase and came factory with a two-piece driveshaft.
When I swapped from a 4-speed, I bought a used driveshaft from an F250 with the same wheelbase as my truck thinking it would bolt straight in. It was a two-piece driveshaft with the carrier bearing in the middle and the slip joint just behind. However, the 10.25" axle yoke is about 3" farther forward than the 8.8 yoke. The front half of the driveshaft was fine, I just had to go to a driveshaft shop and have them re-tube the rear half 3" longer to match the rear half of the original F150 driveshaft and reach the 8.8 yoke.
As for finding a suitable driveshaft, I don't know if the carrier bearing of a two-piece driveshaft mounts in the same place relative to the engine on all wheelbase trucks or if it moves based on wheelbase and axle options. I imagine that you could use a one-piece driveshaft with a slip joint in the driveshaft if you could find one or have one made if the wheelbase of your truck is too short for a two-piece driveshaft, but I do not know for sure. My truck is a 133" wheelbase and came factory with a two-piece driveshaft.
Hey, I have a 1988 F150 I6 2wd I am putting a ZF 5-speed in and I was just wanted to know how you mounted the carrier bearing?
My truck came from the factory with a 2-piece driveshaft, so the new one mounted in the factory location. There is a bracket that spans the frame rails near the front of the bed.
Im pretty much convinced I have to go with a custom drive shaft. The wheel base seems too short for a two piece setup. The cost of obtaining and modifying a stock drive shaft is about the same as a custom unit. The carrier bearing would be about a foot or less from the end of the trans on a two piece shaft.
Got it under control with a custom driveshaft. Now Im waiting for the winter to ease up a bit so I can do the install. The drive shaft length worked out to be 59.25" center to center with a slip spline setup. Huntsville Driveshaft did a fine job.
Just got done with the zf swap and I must say Im glad I did it. The crossmember, slave cylinder and trans mount was the same as the m5od and the back up light harness was even long enough to plug into the zf. The new driveshaft worked out well. The shifting is definitely more truck oriented. Noise wasn't an issue with a new upper and lower shifter boot that trimmed out nicely to the carpet. I don't think I will have any problems towing any of my equipment. I highly recommend this swap.
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