I'll second that. Use it everyday. I also added a 900 W under dash heater in conjunction with my block heater that I have set up on a timer that has the cabin almost toasty before I even get in. RS with high idle allows the truck to be almost fully warmed up before I even get in. Best part is it doesn't register as idle time if the high idle is set above 1000 rpm.

 

No doubt driving it produces heat faster, but 5 minutes of driving vs. 5 minutes of idling; doesn't "double" anything in the coldest winter months. Besides- I'm not remote starting and idling it at 1000 rpm. More like 1300-1400, I have the Variable potentiometer type resistor in my install. I "need" to run it at high idle a lot of times just to defrost the windshield before going out to plow. Driving it to defrost the windshield just ain't a good idea. Whatever works for everyone is all that matters, we all use it different, for different reasons. Just glad to have it, and glad to have this forum as a resource to draw the "how to" knowledge from

 

What is this heater you speak of? Picture? Link? Thanks

 

I have the Viper Smart Start that links through my iPhone. Nice feature because I have programmable start times that alerts me 10 minutes before my anticipated departure and I can start it from nearly anywhere in the country. Real nice if I've been at the mall or something and parked far away to prevent door dings.

 

When I'm at work, I plug in a 1500 watt, 110 volt ceramic heater that sits on the console on a piece of plywood. Sure helps keep the windows clear and the cab warm. I also plug in the engine heater. After working 12 1/2 hour nightshifts, it is nice to get in a warm truck. Helps to shorten warmups. I have done this for over 25 years with all my vehicles. On my 1990 FORD Festiva work car, I have a 110 volt 1200 watt heater mounted to the rear shelf on the drivers side. An extension cord runs thru the firewall and sticks out at the grille, right beside the block heater cord. When at home I don't use the cab heaters, just the block heaters.

 

Im interested in one of these heaters also,will it work with the plug in we have in the back of the console?

 

Haven't ever tried it. I kinda doubt it tho. I think that outlet in our trucks is only good for like 150 watts.

The ones I have are just off the shelf household heaters. I usually try and find a small one so it doesn't take up too much space.

 

So what do I need to do to be able to run a decent heater without spending alot of coin?

 

Out of my last 50 or so starts maybe one has been with the key! I have the remote start one on my other truck and on the wifes Tahoe. Absolutely love it!!

 

The heater is made by Pyroil. Can buy at Canadian tire in Canada. Not sure about the USA. It is a 900w heater so too powerful for the console plug. I run a heavy duty 1850w cable to the truck for the block and under dash heaters. My timer is also rated for 1800w. Canadian tire is my favourite store. Well, it's a toss up between that and princess auto I guess!

 

I tried to take some photos today but for some reason I can't get them from my phone to my computer.

Anyway. While I cannot advise you to run an electrical appliance in your truck, I can tell you how I did mine. There, disclaimer is out of the way.

I got my hands on some industrial extension cord similar to this in 16/3:

CAROL Cord, Portable, 16/3, SJOOW, 100Ft - Electrical Wire and Cable - 1YPW3|01342.82.01 - Grainger Industrial Supply

Then I got under the driver's side dash by where the steering column goes thru the firewall and poked a small hole thru the grommet that goes around the column, and pushed the cord thru. Make sure you don't wrap around the steering column or the u-joint doesn't rub on the cord, I used wire ties to position the cord where I wanted it. I then routed the cord behind the master cylinder and along the left fender, following the path of the hood release cable. I went all the way across the radiator support and then down along the passenger side of the radiator. HINT: Use plenty of wire ties to keep the cord where it won't get damaged. Also, wire ties don't have to necessarily have to be drawn tight to be effective. Run the cord all the way from one end to the other before cinching down the wire ties. I did drill a hole in the radiator support at the passenger side just before it dropped down alongside the radiator to be able to put a tie wrap there. The support is aluminum. Then I weaved the cord under the right front bumper mount and exited thru the same hole as the factory block heater cord. Place a female plug on the end in the cab and a male plug on the other end and VIOLA! I positioned the female plug right beneath the little useless cubby hole above the throttle. There are a lot of stiff wire harnesses and metal parts under the dash to suspend the cord and keep it out of harm's way. I was going to drill a hole in the back of the useless cubby hole and poke the cord thru and let the plug sit in the useless cubby hole, but I have a hard time cutting holes in stuff. Even if they're useless.

Here's a heater similar to the heater I use:

Pelonis® Ceramic Heater Fan (HC0120) - Heaters - Ace Hardware

I must warn you to use extreme caution when attaching to, or passing a 110 volt cord thru an opening. Make sure there is no way that the cord can get pinched or chaffed so it won't short out or energize your vehicle's metal parts. Also, ensure your heater will not over heat the interior of your truck and melt something other than the ice on the windows.

I'll try again tomorrow to get some pics.

 

My Astro Start will run 28min before shutting down FWIW.