1963 radiator core support removal
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Junior User
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 53
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From: Marine on Saint Croix, MN
1963 radiator core support removal
Would it be possible for me to remove the radiator core support without pulling the hood and fenders? It's getting towards winter here and I'd like to keep as much of the front end on my unibody as possible. I pulled the front bumper and started on the grille Saturday afternoon. The upper bolts came out after a few PBlaster shots, but five of the bottom nuts broke loose. I was able to get a vise grip on three of them (through the rusted out sheet metal) but the last two I need to cut them out. I picked up a mini hacksaw today and will try cutting the last two bolts tomorrow....
I'm pretty sure I will need to pick up a new core support - the old one is rusted out even more than I thought. I might try my hand at patching the old one - I just bought a new MIG welder and will need some practice.
Thank you for any tips or advice you may have....
I'm pretty sure I will need to pick up a new core support - the old one is rusted out even more than I thought. I might try my hand at patching the old one - I just bought a new MIG welder and will need some practice.
Thank you for any tips or advice you may have....
Logistics Pro
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 4,651
Likes: 60
From: Hemet ca.
It can be done (not advised) but you can do it. You'll still need to loosen all the fender bolts. You'll need to remove all the bolts back towards the firewall. After that you'll need to spread the fender away from the core support in order to get it out. Doing this you might tweek the fenders. Your going to have to remove the upper header panel, which should be done while removing the grille. You'll then need to remove the lower valance, which also should be done while removing the grille.
Once the valance and header are removed you can then spread the fenders out. (again not advised)
The construction of these trucks in Fords mind was pretty straight forward, however the de-construction needs to be done in certain orders. Unless.... you don't care about any of the pieces getting bent.
To do a good job remove as much as possible, bag and label all bolts.
I personally would remove the hood and fenders.
Once the valance and header are removed you can then spread the fenders out. (again not advised)
The construction of these trucks in Fords mind was pretty straight forward, however the de-construction needs to be done in certain orders. Unless.... you don't care about any of the pieces getting bent.
To do a good job remove as much as possible, bag and label all bolts.
I personally would remove the hood and fenders.
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Junior User
Joined: Jul 2012
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From: Marine on Saint Croix, MN
Robert - Thanks for your advice. Once I got the grille off today, I could see everything you mentioned. I pulled the upper and lower valances and took off the outer right side fender. Hopefully, I will have time tomorrow to pull the left fender too. It's kinda looking like I could leave the hood on. I'd rather not pull the hood if I can help it - I don't have room in my garage for the truck yet and I'll have to cover the front end with a tarp if it starts snowing.
On a side note - if anyone has a '63 core support they are willing to part with - I'd like to know about it.
On a side note - if anyone has a '63 core support they are willing to part with - I'd like to know about it.
Lead Driver
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 6,305
Likes: 18
From: Boulder Creek, Ca
If anything like the 65, once bumper is removed found it's easier to remove the grille, upper valance, radiator bracket, and lower pan, etc. as a unit. Once the fender bolts are removed there are access holes near the radiator cap where I used an extension and removed the bolts for the radiator support backet, and then the bolts at the base of the bracket, and can be reassembled the same way. In the event you want to disassemble the grille, valance, pan, etc. I found it much easier to remove the rusted and stripped bolts and stripped 'J' nuts on the lower pan once the unit is removed.
Also, don't recall having to remove the hood. In removing the engine I have removed the bolts securing the hood to the bracket, placed 2-3 shipping blackets between the base of the hood and the cowl and lowered the hood to rest on the blankets, the bracket kept the hood in upright position until I was ready to reassemble. Having said that, if expect winds then strongly suggest storing hood in safe place.
Also, don't recall having to remove the hood. In removing the engine I have removed the bolts securing the hood to the bracket, placed 2-3 shipping blackets between the base of the hood and the cowl and lowered the hood to rest on the blankets, the bracket kept the hood in upright position until I was ready to reassemble. Having said that, if expect winds then strongly suggest storing hood in safe place.
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