Keep drving "it will show itself" - UPDATED
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Postmaster
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 2,737
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From: Westfield, Indiana
Definately worth the money. Goodyear, Bridgestone, Firestone - priced them all and you save maybe 100-200$ in costs but I read thousands of reviews and was hard pressed to find one person say they regretted buying Michelins. I figure I will save that $200 over the life of tire a couple times over, in not throwing $$ at other parts thinking they are the problem, not having to constantly re balance to keep it smooth, and then there is the lower alcohol bill from the stress relief of a vibration free vehicle!
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Postmaster
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 2,737
Likes: 23
From: Westfield, Indiana
I got them at place call Riley Tire - small place in Greenfield, Indiana. Friend of a family member and family member owns a motorsports shop that sells snowmobiles etc, so ran it through the shop as a business to business and avoided some of those retail fees, such as disposal and well sales tax. They tossed in a spare tire out of their extra stack too boot since these are one size bigger than my stock tires were, it's not pretty but it will get me home or too a store if I ever blow a tread.
I paid $230 a tire which is $920 and $39 to have them mounted and balanced.
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Joined: Aug 2003
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From: Isanti, MN
Just undo the two nuts and rotate with a pair of vice grips, no alignment required.
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 11,798
Likes: 14
From: Mt. Shasta California
Remember that with this kind of steering system the wheel alignment isn't affected by anything other than the outer tie rod ends. The two that make up the drag link as well as the pitman arm and steering box have absolutely nothing to do with it. The steering would have to be centered again, but there's no need for an alignment shop to do this because it's a simple affair with the adjusting sleeve.
Just undo the two nuts and rotate with a pair of vice grips, no alignment required.
Just undo the two nuts and rotate with a pair of vice grips, no alignment required.
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Postmaster
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 2,737
Likes: 23
From: Westfield, Indiana
But they can still align it before or after the box and hopefully there is an eccentric bushing near the upper ball joint, otherwise it's just a matter of doing the toe-in which I do myself by eye but it can also be done with a tape measure or a string...........pretty easy any way you look at it. (the toe-in). Granted the only adjustment after the box is the centering of the steering wheel so Sammie make sure the wheel is centered correctly.
Remember that with this kind of steering system the wheel alignment isn't affected by anything other than the outer tie rod ends. The two that make up the drag link as well as the pitman arm and steering box have absolutely nothing to do with it. The steering would have to be centered again, but there's no need for an alignment shop to do this because it's a simple affair with the adjusting sleeve.
Just undo the two nuts and rotate with a pair of vice grips, no alignment required.
Just undo the two nuts and rotate with a pair of vice grips, no alignment required.
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Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 11,798
Likes: 14
From: Mt. Shasta California
You get the steering wheel as close as you can and then fine tune it with the linkage sleeve underneath. The pitman arm is just a matter of removing the nut and using a puller to remove it. It does require a 1 5/16 socket and 200 pounds of torque when your put it back on (double check my info). You can borrow the puller at a parts store and maybe a socket. http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/...7/#post1799719
Hotshot
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 15,014
Likes: 35
From: Semper Fi tell I die!
ive always been afraid to put after market rims on the ex since i haul weight, do you know if the aftermarket rims are hub centric? i would like to upgrade but i dont want to downgrade the strength and shear studs off either.
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Postmaster
Joined: Aug 2012
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From: Westfield, Indiana
Hub Centric Rings, Wheel Adapters, Wheel Spacers | Motorsport Tech
Most wheels (aftermarket) are 5.150 (130.81) hub bore and our trucks are 124.9 mm hub bore so you need the 130.81 to 124.9 set. They are tight as can be and have had no issues with any movement of the wheels etc.
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