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Old Nov 13, 2012 | 08:17 PM
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Compression tester

does anyone have a recommendation for a compression tester. Those ones in the back look like they might be pretty difficult to get to with just a standard tester with the rubber hose that threads in. Any advice? I am still trying to chase down this P0302 code. It is not ignition related. Plugs and wires were replaced and I swapped the coils and the P0302 still shows up. My next thought was a compression test and then swapping injectors with a different cylinder. One thing at a time though. So, compression tester? Also, how hard is it to get the injectors out and what do I have to do to get them out? Which Noid light would I need to purchase to test the electrical to the injectors?
 
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Old Nov 13, 2012 | 09:48 PM
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The #2 is only the 2nd cylinder back on the passenger side, so the back cylinders shouldn't be an issue for you.
 
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Old Nov 13, 2012 | 11:42 PM
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testing the compression in one cylinder isn't the correct way to compression test an engine. You test them all and the lowest should be within 15% of the highest. The two at the back of each bank appear to be difficult to reach is what I am saying. Some type of tester with an elbow attachment is what I am thinking but have never seen one. Any ideas?
 
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Old Nov 14, 2012 | 09:08 AM
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I am well aware of how to do a full compression test on an engine. My point to you was that since you suspect just one cylinder as being problematic, you only need to test that one cylinder to see if it has a low reading. If you want to do some comparison you can check a couple of the easy to reach ones and do not need to do all eight. If you want to test all 8 of them that's all fine and dandy, but from your posts it seems your main concern is solving a problem with cylinder #2 and not a problem with the engine as a whole.
 
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Old Nov 16, 2012 | 01:08 AM
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testing one cylinder to check for a low reading? What then do I have to compare it to if I don't test the other 7 cylinders. If it's worth doing, it's worth doing right. I will test all 8. Anyone on a compression tester?
 
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Old Feb 3, 2013 | 04:16 PM
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Whittier, I have the exact same issue as you and trying to chase down this misfire issue in the #2 cylinder; however, I only plan to do a compression test on the #2 and probably #1 and #3 cylinders for reference. What was the results of your compression test? Did you figure out the problem? If yes, what was it. I've done all I can do other than a compression test. I believe the head gasket is bad, but won't know until I do the test - hopefully it's nothing else.

Thanks for any help.

Al
 
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Old Feb 3, 2013 | 09:04 PM
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I did not test all 8. I tested 1, 2 and 5 as they were the easiest to get to. Told me all I needed to know. Here were the results (with a brand new actron gauge)

1. 100psi
2. 50psi
5. 150psi

I tested number 2 three times as I could not believe that to be correct but it was. Looks like I need to do a little more testing to find out if its rings or valves/seats. If its valves I think I will just yank the heads and either swap them out or have a local machine shop rebuild them. If its rings I will probably get a remanufactured engine and swap it out.
 
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Old Feb 4, 2013 | 11:09 AM
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Both 1 and 2 have low readings. Adjacent cylinders with low PSI are usually the result of a head gasket leak.
 
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Old Feb 5, 2013 | 02:34 AM
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good catch! That thought had not crossed my mind! I called the local Ford dealer today to see what they would charge me for a cylinder leak down test as I really want to diagnose this a little more before I decide what exactly I am going to do. They said they needed the VIN number to decipher if it was a 2 or 3 valve motor. Supposed to call me back tomorrow. I think it's a 2 valve but wasn't 100% certain. If they want a fortune to do it I think I'll just buy a tester and do it myself.
 
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Old Feb 5, 2013 | 07:29 AM
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Originally Posted by whittier97370
good catch! That thought had not crossed my mind! I called the local Ford dealer today to see what they would charge me for a cylinder leak down test as I really want to diagnose this a little more before I decide what exactly I am going to do. They said they needed the VIN number to decipher if it was a 2 or 3 valve motor. Supposed to call me back tomorrow. I think it's a 2 valve but wasn't 100% certain. If they want a fortune to do it I think I'll just buy a tester and do it myself.
Whittier,
Starting with year starting 2005' the 5.4 went from 2 valve to 3 valves per cylinder. 40 or so more hp, 15-20 more torque.
Shouldn't be too hard to determine.
 
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Old Feb 5, 2013 | 12:25 PM
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Originally Posted by whittier97370
If they want a fortune to do it I think I'll just buy a tester and do it myself.
Harbor Freight has theirs on sale this week for $39.99, but you need your own compressor.
 
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Old Feb 5, 2013 | 04:56 PM
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Originally Posted by alloro
Harbor Freight has theirs on sale this week for $39.99, but you need your own compressor.
How about using your starter motor instead, rather than bleeding it down?
 
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Old Feb 5, 2013 | 06:02 PM
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Thanks for the update Whittier. I performed the compression test yesterday and it was at 180 psi. When I put everything back together the car decided to run fine, so I'm thinking a loose wire or something, but I won't touch anything as long as it's running fine. Good luck with yours. Do keep us posted.

Al
 
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Old Feb 6, 2013 | 03:05 AM
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Originally Posted by r2millers
Whittier,
Starting with year starting 2005' the 5.4 went from 2 valve to 3 valves per cylinder. 40 or so more hp, 15-20 more torque.
Shouldn't be too hard to determine.
mine is a 4.6L not 5.4L. Not sure that makes a big difference in the triton engines though. However, local Ford dealer did not call me back today. Guess they don't want to earn my business so I will look elsewhere or do it myself.
 
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Old Feb 6, 2013 | 09:50 AM
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Originally Posted by Methodical_1
I performed the compression test yesterday and it was at 180 psi.
Maybe the 2-wire COP connector?
 
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