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1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Fat Fendered and Classic Ford Trucks

What to do?

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Old Nov 14, 2012 | 11:59 AM
  #16  
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All good opinions and suggestions, now it's up to you to decide.
 
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Old Nov 14, 2012 | 01:52 PM
  #17  
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What is the maximum you can afford to spend for the project start? How much work can you honestly do yourself? Do you have the space to store and work on the truck? How long are you willing to have it in an undriveable condition? Do you have the ambition to work on a long term project? Are you going to have a steady source of extra funds to invest in the build.
As others have said, the most cost effective and quickest route is to buy the best vehicle you can afford that is as close to they way you would build it as possible. If buying a basket case or semi finished starter, do not pay anything extra for parts that are not to your liking, you'll either be unhappy with the whole project or change them out down the line. If you have your heart set on a 56 then unless you like the 53 just as well, keep looking for a 56. If you have no experience with body work or welding, try to stay away from a rust bucket that is going to require a lot of patching. Body work is much more expensive and difficult than mechanical work. (fortunately for you you live in a part of the country where finding a rust out free starter for a low price shouldn't be difficult). Don't spend any money on that engine and tranny unless you can get it running with a fresh battery and some fresh gas first and even then if you really want say a late model 351 and OD and/or stick tranny then don't pay any more than scrap value for that engine and tranny. Don't buy a F250 or 350 if you really want a F100. In CA DON'T buy ANYTHING you want to eventually license and drive on the highway that doesn't have a valid title that matches the serial # stamped on the frame!
A solid rust out free (surface rust doesn't count, it's easily sanded off) sheet metal that is reasonably straight and has all the trim and interior parts, a complete stock chassis without or with engine/tranny that you won't keep, should be able to be found in the 600-1200.00 range. A basic drivable garage find or old restoration with a drivable engine/tranny that you would be happy with that needs paint and upholstery to complete can be had for 3-6K. A ready to drive with all the major work done well a good running engine and tranny without any high buck high performance parts should be able to be found in the 8-15K+ range with the upper end to include things like a freshly rebuilt or clean low mileage late model drive train with headers and exhaust system and some dress up parts and/or AC, Fully rebuilt front suspension or MII style IFS with power disk brakes, OD tranny, 9" rear axle with suitable ratio, clean rims and tires, redone interior with OEM type materials (no Mexican blankets) and servicable paint in a color you find pleasant. In other words that you can park in your driveway and drive without the neighbors thinking your distant hillbilly relatives are visiting.
The first example, like the 53 you talked about is going to require an additional 10 - 15K and 5 - 10 years of dedicated work to put back on the road if you do all the work yourself. The middle priced example will require about 7- 10K and 2 -3 years work since most will be mechanical. The highest priced example will require 0 - 2K and 0- 1 year of work, mostly upgrades and farmed out work like paint, upholstery, etc.. Weigh what you want and how much work are you willing/able to do then shop ebay, Craigs list, the classifieds here on FTE, local papers, lawn and parking lot shows, swap meets and spread the word you are in the market until you find whatever you are looking for. They are out there, you just have to put some work into looking for them.
 
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Old Nov 14, 2012 | 07:22 PM
  #18  
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you might get lucky like I did and find a easy to fix runner that is rare and unique ,,and get to drive and play with while you work on it ..like I did..good luck !!
 
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Old Nov 14, 2012 | 07:29 PM
  #19  
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If it is a 56 you want, I have an uncle who has had an F100 shortbox for a looong time. It has sat in a quonset for at least the last 35 years, hasn't been run in that amount of itme. It is a custom cab with six cylinder/four speed. It is all original and complete. He has been talking about getting rid of it.
 
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Old Nov 14, 2012 | 07:45 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by 1952henry
If it is a 56 you want, I have an uncle who has had an F100 shortbox for a looong time. It has sat in a quonset for at least the last 35 years, hasn't been run in that amount of itme. It is a custom cab with six cylinder/four speed. It is all original and complete. He has been talking about getting rid of it.

Tell me more in a PM Henry. I'll be over that way on my way to my Uni in Colorado in a few sort weeks. The little brother would be very happy to see me pull in with this behind the Labomba Moe may trade me.

I am so serious here Bud. Really.
 
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Old Nov 15, 2012 | 11:26 AM
  #21  
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Thanks for all the good advise. I think I will sell or trade my 1988 911 and then get the truck. I think that this forum is so much better and the people are more helpfull than the porsche forums are that I will be useing it for many years to come.
 
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Old Nov 15, 2012 | 11:29 AM
  #22  
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Well don't wait to long in getting it or it may well be gone
 
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Old Nov 15, 2012 | 11:59 AM
  #23  
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For what it's worth...I have looked at a ton of finished vehicles and without exception I have found numerous things that I would change on each before I would be satisfied with it. When I look at a truck (or car) I mentally strip off all the unwanted parts and come up with a cost based on the parts that remain. Many older restorations (the ones you are most likely to find for sale) have Chevy drivelines, tweed upholstery, teal/coral paint schemes, or some other "feature" that just "has to go" before I would be seen driving down the road in it.

To the point, if this truck has the basics...good sheetmetal and a solid chassis...then the rest is stuff that you would probably change out anyway. You really don't want 50+ year old glass, etc so figure it into the build. No sense paying for stuff that will end up on the scrap heap. Good luck with your project!
 
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