Ignition control module wiring help!!!!
Cargo Master
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From: Washington
Jim
EDIT:
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Jim...The Guru
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Lead Driver
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From: Sheffield, AL
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Moderator
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From: Denver Metro Area, CO
The module retards the ignition timing a few degrees in START to make for easier engine starting so I wouldn't give the white wire power all the time, I don't know how the module would feel about that.
Jim says feeding the red wire power will be enough to make things work but I'd guess you'd be foregoing that retard-on-start functionality by doing that, you may be OK with that.
Look in the Tech Tips sticky and read the threads on DSII swaps, there's lots of good information in those threads.
Jim says feeding the red wire power will be enough to make things work but I'd guess you'd be foregoing that retard-on-start functionality by doing that, you may be OK with that.
Look in the Tech Tips sticky and read the threads on DSII swaps, there's lots of good information in those threads.
Post Fiend
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 8,786
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From: Northern California
Hook the white wire (Aftermarket Module and Motorcraft Replacement modules) to the coil start bypass circut. On the mustang that should be located on the starter solenoid, I terminal.
The Red Wire (Aftermarket Module and Motorcraft Replacement modules) needs to hook to the ignition switch coil 12V wire before the ballast resistor.
HOWEVER!
If you get the connector from a 1980-1986 truck, or get a factory installed Motorcraft ignition module, be aware that the red and white wire colors are inverted. (Makes it confusing
). The easiest way to tell is that these wires will have Red/Blue stripe, and White/Blue Stripe wire. Aftermarket and replacement modules will be solid white or Red. Red/Blue stripe goes to start circut, White/Blue stripe goes to run circut. You will also notice that the wire colors will cross in the connector when it is plugged into the module if it's aftermarket or a new replacement.
Plug in the connector (the one you have to splice into the mustang) to the module before wiring things up, and if the wire colors change through the connector, make sure you wire the connector to the module wire colors (If brand new module) and not the connectors colors.
Hopefully this makes sense...
The Red Wire (Aftermarket Module and Motorcraft Replacement modules) needs to hook to the ignition switch coil 12V wire before the ballast resistor.
HOWEVER!
If you get the connector from a 1980-1986 truck, or get a factory installed Motorcraft ignition module, be aware that the red and white wire colors are inverted. (Makes it confusing
). The easiest way to tell is that these wires will have Red/Blue stripe, and White/Blue Stripe wire. Aftermarket and replacement modules will be solid white or Red. Red/Blue stripe goes to start circut, White/Blue stripe goes to run circut. You will also notice that the wire colors will cross in the connector when it is plugged into the module if it's aftermarket or a new replacement.Plug in the connector (the one you have to splice into the mustang) to the module before wiring things up, and if the wire colors change through the connector, make sure you wire the connector to the module wire colors (If brand new module) and not the connectors colors.
Hopefully this makes sense...
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Hard wire?
Could one hard wire both the connectors from the ECU? I just pulled the ds2 and module from an 81 inline 6 for my 86 inline 6 and didn’t take the wiring harness with me because it was torn up. Could I implement hard wires to achieve this swap? Or do I need that harness from the 81?
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From: Virginia
Could one hard wire both the connectors from the ECU? I just pulled the ds2 and module from an 81 inline 6 for my 86 inline 6 and didn’t take the wiring harness with me because it was torn up. Could I implement hard wires to achieve this swap? Or do I need that harness from the 81?
Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 5,831
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From: St Albert, Alberta
Could one hard wire both the connectors from the ECU? I just pulled the ds2 and module from an 81 inline 6 for my 86 inline 6 and didn’t take the wiring harness with me because it was torn up. Could I implement hard wires to achieve this swap? Or do I need that harness from the 81?
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