Dana rear end
#1
Dana rear end
Finally found a dana rear end that I think will fit my F-3
Came out of a F-350 I think 1979.
Has a larger tube than original but I think I can get around that.
The sway bar will probably go. What do others think about shocks. Mine never had them, are they worth installing mounts and shocks?
#3
#5
Went over to where the donor truck was parked and got a helluva surprise. Looked on the door post and build date on the tag was 5-85. Now I'm not sure what I got.
Still measures 41" between spring pads, has a larger than three inch tube (3 1/2 maybe) Looked up Dana Rear End ID on line, got pictures think it may be a 10.25 Ford.
It has the lug nuts with the integral washer if that helps any.
Noy the sellers fault, he told me where the truck was and I went over and measured the spring pads and didn't look at much else.
Still measures 41" between spring pads, has a larger than three inch tube (3 1/2 maybe) Looked up Dana Rear End ID on line, got pictures think it may be a 10.25 Ford.
It has the lug nuts with the integral washer if that helps any.
Noy the sellers fault, he told me where the truck was and I went over and measured the spring pads and didn't look at much else.
#6
AXLE code printed on the Certification Label where you found the production date.
Rear axle ID tag located under one of the bolts that retains the inspection cover to the housing. Don't be surprised if it's missing.
Sterling 10.25 introduced in 1985, rear hub diameter is much larger than Dana 60/70. Hubcaps/wheel covers specific to Sterling axle, Dana's won't fit.
Rear axle ID tag located under one of the bolts that retains the inspection cover to the housing. Don't be surprised if it's missing.
Sterling 10.25 introduced in 1985, rear hub diameter is much larger than Dana 60/70. Hubcaps/wheel covers specific to Sterling axle, Dana's won't fit.
#7
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#8
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From the pictures you have a Sterling 10.25. Sounds like you lucked out and got an axle from a chassis cab truck so the spring perches are in the right spot. Just a note the track width on that axle is 67" compared to your stock 61"
Regular wheels will fit fine instead of the duals. The Sterlings used the same hubs for SRW and DRW. They use wheels with a 4.89" center hole where older axles used 4.75". It can be ground down easily enough if your creative. Ford updated the Dana 70 to the bigger hub a year later anyways. Sterlings have easily removed drums and a nice o ring to seal the axle shaft compared to the Dana 70.
If your going to be driving your truck alot it wouldn't hurt to keep the rear swaybar, just be sure to add a front one to keep it balanced.
Regular wheels will fit fine instead of the duals. The Sterlings used the same hubs for SRW and DRW. They use wheels with a 4.89" center hole where older axles used 4.75". It can be ground down easily enough if your creative. Ford updated the Dana 70 to the bigger hub a year later anyways. Sterlings have easily removed drums and a nice o ring to seal the axle shaft compared to the Dana 70.
If your going to be driving your truck alot it wouldn't hurt to keep the rear swaybar, just be sure to add a front one to keep it balanced.
#9
I got it pretty well stripped down and setting under the springs. It does look a bit wide. Measured with the dual wheels and tires and it measured 7 feet even, same width as my flatbed. Can a sway bar be mounted on a stock front axle?
Also it has a funky spring loaded nut holding the hubs on the spindles, any idea where to get a tool to remove them? I used a punch on one side but would prefer the proper tool to reassemble them.
Also it has a funky spring loaded nut holding the hubs on the spindles, any idea where to get a tool to remove them? I used a punch on one side but would prefer the proper tool to reassemble them.
#10
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There is a special socket you can buy pretty much anywhere.
Hopefully you didn't damage the nut with the punch as the rachet mechanism isn't indestructable. Usually they are pretty stiff to remove. There is a torque spec on putting them back on. I'm pretty sure they went to this design to simplify bearing setup and to PREVENT people from using a chisel to remove/set the old jamnuts as doing them that way often had the whole hub assembly come off on the road.
Hopefully you didn't damage the nut with the punch as the rachet mechanism isn't indestructable. Usually they are pretty stiff to remove. There is a torque spec on putting them back on. I'm pretty sure they went to this design to simplify bearing setup and to PREVENT people from using a chisel to remove/set the old jamnuts as doing them that way often had the whole hub assembly come off on the road.
#11
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