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1961 - 1966 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Slick Sixties Ford Truck

Powering electric choke

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Old Nov 12, 2012 | 03:41 PM
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Powering electric choke

1965 F250 4x4... I need 12 volt power that is ignition controlled ,for the electric choke on the carb. I know there is a post at the back of the switch itself, but I do not want to overload the switch. This must be a fused source. Any suggestions? I tried searching previous posts but didnt find this exact question. I did see something about avoiding the selenoid as a source... Thanks Roger
 
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Old Nov 12, 2012 | 06:15 PM
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The stator wire on the alternator provides about 12V. It should be black/white or white/black. You can add an in-line fuse.
Eric
 
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Old Nov 13, 2012 | 08:24 AM
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Eric... Thanks...I will try and identify that wire....what size fuse would you recommend?
 
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Old Nov 13, 2012 | 09:54 AM
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I ran my power to a keyed fuse in the fuse box, that way the power is only on when the key is on. I think that I used the fuse for the radio.
 
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Old Nov 13, 2012 | 07:03 PM
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I use a ignition switched 12v source and the post on the switch is good one. You should use this source for power to switch on a 40 amp Bosch relay that then powers the choke. This way you are not adding a load to the switch and you get real 12v power for the choke. This deal works for any accessory that needs clean 12v power using our 48yo+ switches. Like the brighter brights deal for headlights or the 12v requirements of pertronix or an HEI. IMHO!
 
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Old Nov 13, 2012 | 07:17 PM
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William ... I will be putting in a petronix system...will this need a seperate relay...Coming off the back post of the ingitionswitch are two wires...One is the cigarrette lighter...the other is maybe wipers?..I dont remember. I was afraid to add a third draw off the switch..what do you think??
 
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Old Nov 13, 2012 | 08:36 PM
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The four posts on the relay would be.....1 to alternator...1 to keyed..souce....1 to ground...1 to electric choke?..
 
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Old Nov 14, 2012 | 09:02 AM
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You need a 12v source that turns off with the key, you do not want to have full 12v all the time; it will drain the battery.
 
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Old Nov 14, 2012 | 10:44 AM
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Originally Posted by rwkinch
William ... I will be putting in a petronix system...will this need a seperate relay...

Depends on which one you get. The original Ignitors DO NOT take 12v.

Lay out everything you are planning to do electrically first- then figure out what sort of ground work you need to lay in order to support it.

my personal opinion- running a relay just to power your electric choke is overkill.
 
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Old Nov 14, 2012 | 08:43 PM
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A 12v switched source from anywhere turns on the relay (almost zero amperage necessary). One wire to ground from the relay. This circuit runs the relay. A solid 12v source (regulator, solenoid, alternator, battery) to the relay and out the other side to the work, in this case the choke or whatever you want to run with battery voltage. You can use larger wires for the work circuit ( I like 14 gage) and smaller to run the switched relay circuit, say 18 gage. The advantage is if something bad happens on the work circuit (like choke shorting out), the 48 year old ignition switch is not affected. Buy a relay and experiment using a test light and battery. After you figure it out lay out the circuit the way you want it. I have hung relays in the engine compartment, on the core support and under the dash. They are tough, reliable and cheap. I do use relays on Pertronix Ignitors, HEI and DUI systems. Really this stuff is easy once you experiment with it a bit. rwkinch, I'd use the starter solenoid Positive post if I were you. IMHO!
 
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Old Nov 15, 2012 | 07:58 AM
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all great info...everybody!!.. Thanks so much for this education...I feel these precautions will help me protect this truck that I painstakingly am trying to preserve!!! Roger..
 
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