67 352 timing issue
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Freshman User
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67 352 timing issue
Hello all, im new here and need some help.
I built the 352 motor 2 years ago and got busy with other stuff and just now getting back to it. it will run rough and sound like crap after cranking it over for several minutes.
do i have to drop the oil pan to get the timing cover off?
here is my baby, its been in the family from the factory. maybe the link will work.
I built the 352 motor 2 years ago and got busy with other stuff and just now getting back to it. it will run rough and sound like crap after cranking it over for several minutes.
do i have to drop the oil pan to get the timing cover off?
here is my baby, its been in the family from the factory. maybe the link will work.
Lead Driver
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 9,893
Likes: 12
From: Ohio
Welcome to the forums.
No, you don't have to drop the oil pan to get the cover off. With a flat pan rail, it comes off without much issue.
Why do you need to take cover off? Do you think the gears are off time? Have in investigated everything to make sure?
No, you don't have to drop the oil pan to get the cover off. With a flat pan rail, it comes off without much issue.
Why do you need to take cover off? Do you think the gears are off time? Have in investigated everything to make sure?
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Freshman User
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that was going to be starting point, making sure the gears are correct. im not sure how i put the dots on the gears if they are both on top or if the cam dot is on bottom and the and crank gear dot is on top or if they are top and bottom. just wanted to be sure.
IF they were off would it crank and run really rough?
Lead Driver
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 9,893
Likes: 12
From: Ohio
Well, depending how bad, it likely would not ever run.
Most times, the two dots go "together" (closest to each other).
How about pulling passenger valve cover and #1 plug. Rotate motor and feel for compression. Does it happen when damper is coming to TDC mark? #1 intake valve should have closed. By comparing all three, you should be able to see if something is out of whack.
Most times, the two dots go "together" (closest to each other).
How about pulling passenger valve cover and #1 plug. Rotate motor and feel for compression. Does it happen when damper is coming to TDC mark? #1 intake valve should have closed. By comparing all three, you should be able to see if something is out of whack.
Ford Parts Specialist
Joined: Nov 2006
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From: Simi Valley, CA
At the factory, a rubber gasket is placed between the inner damper and outer pulley, then the three parts are pressed together forming a one piece harmonic balancer.
The gasket age cracks/shrinks, causing the outer pulley to "walk away" from the inner damper.
If not caught in time, the outer pulley will fly off, taking assorted belts and etc along with it, may end up in the radiator core. Not Pleasant.
The gasket age cracks/shrinks, causing the outer pulley to "walk away" from the inner damper.
If not caught in time, the outer pulley will fly off, taking assorted belts and etc along with it, may end up in the radiator core. Not Pleasant.
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Freshman User
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Well, depending how bad, it likely would not ever run.
Most times, the two dots go "together" (closest to each other).
How about pulling passenger valve cover and #1 plug. Rotate motor and feel for compression. Does it happen when damper is coming to TDC mark? #1 intake valve should have closed. By comparing all three, you should be able to see if something is out of whack.
Most times, the two dots go "together" (closest to each other).
How about pulling passenger valve cover and #1 plug. Rotate motor and feel for compression. Does it happen when damper is coming to TDC mark? #1 intake valve should have closed. By comparing all three, you should be able to see if something is out of whack.
there isnt any marks on the damper to go by, i used the original one. looks like im gonna have to back up and punt.
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Freshman User
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At the factory, a rubber gasket is placed between the inner damper and outer pulley, then the three parts are pressed together forming a one piece harmonic balancer.
The gasket age cracks/shrinks, causing the outer pulley to "walk away" from the inner damper.
If not caught in time, the outer pulley will fly off, taking assorted belts and etc along with it, may end up in the radiator core. Not Pleasant.
The gasket age cracks/shrinks, causing the outer pulley to "walk away" from the inner damper.
If not caught in time, the outer pulley will fly off, taking assorted belts and etc along with it, may end up in the radiator core. Not Pleasant.
yep i need to buy a new one and start over, the original one doesnt have any marks on it anymore.
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Lead Driver
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 9,893
Likes: 12
From: Ohio
Take some sand paper and clean it up, even a wire wheel. The marks should be stamped in, so shouldn't wear off. Might be covered up with rust or grease. Try this, pull #1 plug and rotate til piston is at the top. Look for mark at the pointer. If nothing, rotate another time around and look at pointer. One of those two times, you should be able to locate the mark. Might only be one stamp mark for TDC, not other timing marks like 10*, 20*, etc.
Yes, the do tend to "spin" if the rubber goes bad. That is why it is good to reconfirm timing mark with piston TDC.
Yes, the do tend to "spin" if the rubber goes bad. That is why it is good to reconfirm timing mark with piston TDC.
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can not find any marking on the balancer, pulled the timing cover, got #1 TDC on compression stroke, the timing gear dots are lined up close together....(cam dot on bottom and crank dot on top) in the center.
truck did run but very rough, pulled #1 plug and it was BLACK. im not thinking im hitting on all 8.
will dig deeper with new parts again, like wires, plugs, cap.
truck did run but very rough, pulled #1 plug and it was BLACK. im not thinking im hitting on all 8.
will dig deeper with new parts again, like wires, plugs, cap.
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