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Brand new UVCH, but I still have the original gasket frame. It passes the buzz test, but not the oil test as seen below. Injector has been giving me fits since I installed it and I never had this problem until I put the injector in. Who else has run into this? I can Buck$Zooka more parts in there, but I'd like to exhaust my other options first. Armature clearance (which I have to read up on and buy feeler gauges)? If nothing works, I'd have to air freight another injector from FFD to get it installed before my trip.
Its possible the armature plate screw loosened up. If so, then its an easy fix. Remove the solenoid and if the plate spins around then its loose. You simply tighten up the screw. However, you may have to index the poppet. I can walk you through that process over the phone. Let me know if you would like my cell number.
The injector does not need to be removed for this process.
Last edited by Shake-N-Bake; Nov 10, 2012 at 05:59 PM.
Reason: sp
Nothing against ANY vendor/manufacturer of aftermarket parts because stuff can happen to anybody at any time, but nothing beats the reliability of stock parts. This is why I don't modify the stuff I have to depend on day in and day out.
Its possible the armature plare screw loosened up. If so, then its an easy fix. Remove the solenoid and if the plate spins around then its loose. You simply tighten up the screw. However, you may have to index the poppet. I can walk you through that process over the phone. Let me know if you would like my cell number.
The injector does not need to be removed for this process.
I checked it out as we discussed on the phone and the plate is secure. I twisted the plate to feel the detent and the detent is quite strong and in alignment. I believe I have another bad injector. I'd swap it with #3 to confirm, but I don't have copper washers or O-rings to get them sealed up and then I could have problems with two cylinders instead of just one. The first faulty injector may have been loud, but at least it worked. I'll throw a cover over the head until I have another idea or another injector.
Replacing the injectors and turbo is giving me a lot of education... now I could use a lot of medication.
Bummer.
When the engine is running, can you feel the solenoid clicking? If not, then you might try swapping it with another injector to see if the problem follows the solenoid. Usually a bad solenoid will shut down the whole bank but not always...
The odds of another bad injector are pretty darn slim. Can ya stick a test light or volt meter on the connection to see if it is getting the signal to fire?
Subscribing.
I am in the market for a set of injectors in the near future for the F450 (hopefully it lasts till after i get the tax return..) I was thinking of a set of remans, and had looked at Full Force. I am waiting to hear what is up with yours.
Bummer.
When the engine is running, can you feel the solenoid clicking? If not, then you might try swapping it with another injector to see if the problem follows the solenoid. Usually a bad solenoid will shut down the whole bank but not always...
I'll be doing tests today, and I'll try swapping solenoids for tickles and giggles.
Originally Posted by aawlberninf350
The odds of another bad injector are pretty darn slim. Can ya stick a test light or volt meter on the connection to see if it is getting the signal to fire?
I have electronic equipment to verify a signal is going there and I'll be using it today. I agree the odds of this are slim - but I can't get past this: 2000ca250 and I noticed a problem at idle the very moment we put the injector in - I had AE active before and after the swap. Jody and I tried to address the idle, but the problem "blew out" over the week and I now have a dead hole at all RPMs, ICPs, and temperatures.
I hope this doesn't reflect badly on FFD... yet. You really need to factor my luck into the equation. New injectors and turbo prompted replacement of IPR, boots, and plenum? All at the same time? This last year has really thrown the produce at me on the stage of luck... not just with the truck.
I checked the temperature on the exhaust manifolds at all cylinders.
Cylinder 1 is 30 degrees colder than cylinder 2
Cylinder 3 is equal to cylinder 2.
The passenger side total temperature does not get as warm as the driver side total temperature.
What am I assuming from the temp readings? Cylinder 3 is the first working cylinder on the passenger side, where number 2 is the first on the driver side. Everything I've seen so far says #1 is a dud... unless somebody else can come up with another test I've overlook (other than risking O-rings and copper washers). The engine is running a little better today... not as much shudder. I think the injector is actually putting some fuel in, but not enough. My Perdel for #1 was 9 yesterday, but #1 Perdel is 5 this morning.
How many miles on the new injector? Sometimes they need break in as all parts do in the rotation. It wasn't even oiling before you said, so take a long drive, at speed, push the throdle down a little or a lot, pull back apart if you need to. Its sucks I know, but if there isn't many miles on it this mit help. The heat gun is telling you something for sure, but because you have a trip coming up its worth a try.
About 400 miles. It's been coming amd going since day one, but it rarely cleans up. I'd hate to be far from home while burning 7 cylinders. They are remans... the very first time I skimped on the truck.
Hey rich I feel your pain. After I got my 2nd set back and installed I had not driven it much but everything seemed good until the other day. I developed a problem at idle. Won't go into details on your thread but I have 7 cylinders below 1(perdels) and 1 above 5. I know some say the numbers don't matter but I don't buy it. I'm not going to mess with it for a while. I will let you get yours all figured out then I will use your knowledge that you gained.
Interesting videos....Almost looks like a weak solenoid, yet the buzz test sounds strong.
FYI, it is reasonable to swap injectors and reuse the o-rings and copper washer while you troubleshoot your issue. You don't have very many miles on them right now so they should hold up well enough. After you get this figured out, then you can go back and replace o-rings and washer on the disturbed units.
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