65 f600 2 speed axle doesn't shift
#1
65 f600 2 speed axle doesn't shift
Just bought a 65 F600 dump with the 330 and 4+2. Great truck even with 6 tons of gravel loaded.
I'm not having any luck with the 2 speed though - it has power at the motor and the switch works. The oil in the gearbox is clean and fresh. I've tried shifting according to the instructions but can't feel the motor engage.
Could the motor be stuck? Any tips or tricks before I tear into it?
When working properly, will the motor engage while sitting still, or rolling at low speeds?
I'm not having any luck with the 2 speed though - it has power at the motor and the switch works. The oil in the gearbox is clean and fresh. I've tried shifting according to the instructions but can't feel the motor engage.
Could the motor be stuck? Any tips or tricks before I tear into it?
When working properly, will the motor engage while sitting still, or rolling at low speeds?
#2
oh yeah you'll know when the motor shifts. It'll either sound like the rear ends about to fall out of the truck (if you miss the shift) or its jerk and pop in.
An you can typically hear them shift when your just sitting idle.
The motors do sometimes get rusty if they sit for a long time. Take it off and stick it in a bucket of oil or diesel.. Some times just tapping it with a hammer will free it up.
There are 3 contacts on the older ones. 1s hi 1s lo and 1s ground. I believe the middle is the ground. So use a battery and manually switch the motor from hi to lo as a test.
An you can typically hear them shift when your just sitting idle.
The motors do sometimes get rusty if they sit for a long time. Take it off and stick it in a bucket of oil or diesel.. Some times just tapping it with a hammer will free it up.
There are 3 contacts on the older ones. 1s hi 1s lo and 1s ground. I believe the middle is the ground. So use a battery and manually switch the motor from hi to lo as a test.
#4
Thanks for the compliment! She did 3 5-1/2 ton loads today, including a 10% grade where I missed my 4-3 downshift and almost stalled on the middle of the hill, without complaint. The lo range would have been useful then.
Tried tapping on it with no results.
When the switch is in lo, there's power to the motor. Should there be 12v on the other leg when its in hi?
Tried tapping on it with no results.
When the switch is in lo, there's power to the motor. Should there be 12v on the other leg when its in hi?
#6
When this happens I will take a long jumper wire and test the two legs
for a sound, a spark. Take the alum. cover off carefully cause this cover is
also the shaft support. See if you can turn the worm by hand if not its stuck
or stuck in the little bearing (end of worm). Behind the worm is the forward reverse switch. With your 12v jumper clipped to a prob or ice
pick prob those terminals. If something happens then its this switch. If not
have someone in truck turn key on and switch the axle switch while you
with test light prob this switch < one terminal lights the other doesnt person
front switches it now that goes dead and the other lights up, so now the
wiring is correct , and its narrowed down to the motor. I do this all the time
but harder to do with words. And Napa has or will get motor switches
you need. Sometimes it can simply be a motor cleaning and bench test.
Problem is one couldnt ever guess how many time this is used. amazing how long they last so thing to go bad a fact of life. And then as already
said above its no big deal to take the whole assem., out & do on the bench.
My 1953 F900 still has the 6vt (aint got around yet for 12v motor) gotta
be quick shifting that one. its milleseconds fast...................
for a sound, a spark. Take the alum. cover off carefully cause this cover is
also the shaft support. See if you can turn the worm by hand if not its stuck
or stuck in the little bearing (end of worm). Behind the worm is the forward reverse switch. With your 12v jumper clipped to a prob or ice
pick prob those terminals. If something happens then its this switch. If not
have someone in truck turn key on and switch the axle switch while you
with test light prob this switch < one terminal lights the other doesnt person
front switches it now that goes dead and the other lights up, so now the
wiring is correct , and its narrowed down to the motor. I do this all the time
but harder to do with words. And Napa has or will get motor switches
you need. Sometimes it can simply be a motor cleaning and bench test.
Problem is one couldnt ever guess how many time this is used. amazing how long they last so thing to go bad a fact of life. And then as already
said above its no big deal to take the whole assem., out & do on the bench.
My 1953 F900 still has the 6vt (aint got around yet for 12v motor) gotta
be quick shifting that one. its milleseconds fast...................
#7
Thanks for the lead, I feel silly never to have heard of Green Sales, and they're not far from where I work!
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#8
When this happens I will take a long jumper wire and test the two legs
for a sound, a spark. Take the alum. cover off carefully cause this cover is
also the shaft support. See if you can turn the worm by hand if not its stuck
or stuck in the little bearing (end of worm). Behind the worm is the forward reverse switch. With your 12v jumper clipped to a prob or ice
pick prob those terminals. If something happens then its this switch. If not
have someone in truck turn key on and switch the axle switch while you
with test light prob this switch < one terminal lights the other doesnt person
front switches it now that goes dead and the other lights up, so now the
wiring is correct , and its narrowed down to the motor. I do this all the time
but harder to do with words. And Napa has or will get motor switches
you need. Sometimes it can simply be a motor cleaning and bench test.
Problem is one couldnt ever guess how many time this is used. amazing how long they last so thing to go bad a fact of life. And then as already
said above its no big deal to take the whole assem., out & do on the bench.
My 1953 F900 still has the 6vt (aint got around yet for 12v motor) gotta
be quick shifting that one. its milleseconds fast...................
for a sound, a spark. Take the alum. cover off carefully cause this cover is
also the shaft support. See if you can turn the worm by hand if not its stuck
or stuck in the little bearing (end of worm). Behind the worm is the forward reverse switch. With your 12v jumper clipped to a prob or ice
pick prob those terminals. If something happens then its this switch. If not
have someone in truck turn key on and switch the axle switch while you
with test light prob this switch < one terminal lights the other doesnt person
front switches it now that goes dead and the other lights up, so now the
wiring is correct , and its narrowed down to the motor. I do this all the time
but harder to do with words. And Napa has or will get motor switches
you need. Sometimes it can simply be a motor cleaning and bench test.
Problem is one couldnt ever guess how many time this is used. amazing how long they last so thing to go bad a fact of life. And then as already
said above its no big deal to take the whole assem., out & do on the bench.
My 1953 F900 still has the 6vt (aint got around yet for 12v motor) gotta
be quick shifting that one. its milleseconds fast...................
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