engine breaking up
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engine breaking up
I have an 89 F250 with an injected 351. I just put a distributor, ICM , cap rotor and a new coil in my rig but when I rev it up to 2500 or 3000 rpm it runs sweet and smooth but it keeps breaking up and I can watch the rpms drop from 3000 down to 2000 and back up again. It seems like the ignition circuit is grounding out somehow?????Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. There is a capacitor on the negative side of the coil which I didn't replace. Could that have something to do with this issue?
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I don't think it's fuel related. It seems to be electrical insofar as it repetedly cuts out and comes back to life causing the rpms to drop by 1000. I am searching for a short or bare wire somewhere, possibly a broken wire???????????????I am on my way to NAPA right now. Maybe they will be able to steer me in the right direction.......They're pretty good here locally.....
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The plugs and wires have less than 10,000 miles on them. I replaced the brand new icm with a newer one and I still have the same thing going on. She starts and runs smooth but after she warms up, I get some sort of an open circuit. If I tach it up to around 3000 rpm, it starts to cut out causing the rpms to drop to 2000 and after a minute or so of intermittant spitting and sputtering; it just drops off and dies completely. Once it cools down it will start up and run like a champ for a few minutes until a repete of the previous scenario occurs.
Fleet Owner
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From: Kentucky
Ford Ignition Module Test. Fender Mounted Module (ICM).
Was that distributor you installed new or remanufactured? Your symptoms are very classic of a bad PIP (aka stator) inside the distributor.
What color is the Ignition Control Module (ICM)? It should be a gray colored "Push-Start" version. Many parts manuals are wrong so you may have been sold a black "CCD-Style" ICM.
Was that distributor you installed new or remanufactured? Your symptoms are very classic of a bad PIP (aka stator) inside the distributor.
What color is the Ignition Control Module (ICM)? It should be a gray colored "Push-Start" version. Many parts manuals are wrong so you may have been sold a black "CCD-Style" ICM.
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The icm is indeed grey in color and I also ensured that I put dielectric greese between the icm and the distributor body. The distributor was also a remanufactured one. since I already installed a second icm and have a return coming from the first one; maybe I should swap out the distributor as well to rule out a defective pip sensor?I don't know at this point.
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