Carb spacer?
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Freshman User
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 45
Likes: 0
From: McMinnville, Tennessee
Carb spacer?
I have an Offenhauser DP intake manifold that I ordered from Summit that should be here sometime tomorrow and I was wondering if I need a carb spacer or not?
MSEE
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 10,386
Likes: 35
From: Austin, TX
Are you asking whether or not you need it for the carburetor to mount at all? Then no. I have the same intake with an Edelbrock 500 CFM carburetor. Some people use carburetor spacers to lengthen the intake channel, some add it to keep heat away from the carburetor (not an issue with a 300 since the intake is perched off the block).
Note that you may have to get creative with the throttle linkage because of the fact that the carburetor sits 90 degrees, spacer or no spacer. I have pictures of mine in my gallery.
Note that you may have to get creative with the throttle linkage because of the fact that the carburetor sits 90 degrees, spacer or no spacer. I have pictures of mine in my gallery.
Senior User
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 114
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From: Albuquerque
I have that intake with a 600CFM Holley vacuum secondary carb. Needed a 1" thick carb spacer so that the throttle linkage on the carb wouldn't hit the manifold.
It is my understanding with the DP manifold that you want the primary bores on the carbs on the engine side of the manifold. So the throttle linkage will be sideways across the back of the carb.
TR
It is my understanding with the DP manifold that you want the primary bores on the carbs on the engine side of the manifold. So the throttle linkage will be sideways across the back of the carb.
TR
Postmaster
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 3,603
Likes: 10
From: Spokane, WA
JMO there is nothing to be gained by using a spacer on a DP manifold. The DP bores are already quite deep providing more than enough "column" for flow. There is some benefit to using a 4-hole spacer on an Offy C to provide for columnar flow and to get the base of the carb away from some turbulence at the base of the carb as it sits directly on the open cavern of a C manifold.
Postmaster
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 2,949
Likes: 6
From: Earth
Don't overtighten. Torque to spec, run, retorque, run, and retorque again.
Swapping out bolts for studs and nuts makes installation a lot easier.
Swapping out bolts for studs and nuts makes installation a lot easier.
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Freshman User
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 45
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From: McMinnville, Tennessee
Is there any trimming that I need to do, because I kinda stuck it up there tonight for giggles and I couldn't get it to line up on the front?
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Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2008
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From: Near Los Angeles
If they are not grade 8 studs, don't use them. Apply copper anti sieze to threads into head. I apply highest temp rtv sealer around exh. ports, both sides of gasket. Use Mr. Gasket #260. Use top grade crimp nuts. Tighten from center out, working in counter clockwise spiral. Tighten in two increments. If book says 22 lbs, then the first tightening is done to 11 lbs. When all are tightened to spec, run engine. When you are able to shut it down, do so long enough that exhaust to cool to touch, and retouque. Repeat procedure one more time and then forget about it.
The procedure in the book is for a cast iron oem manifold.
The procedure in the book is for a cast iron oem manifold.
Senior User
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 148
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I have a 460 with weiand stealth and edelbrock 1405 I ran it with a spacer and without. With the spacer on, the acceleration was "spongy" after 2nd gear - i.e. didn't get much acceleration from the c6 trans in 3rd gear. Seemed to be better without the spacer (1 inch). Had the kickdown linkage installed.
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