When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Hey guys, my F100 (390, C6 auto) did its best to let me down tonight. I was driving it, stopped at the bank, made a deposit, then started the truck back up, only to find that the shift arm was flopping all around. Luckily my neutral safety switch is broken, so I got the truck started. It started IN GEAR, so I turned it off, pushed it back out of the space and drove it home.
Upon inspection, I can see the arm that normally goes from the steering column down to the side of the C6 transmission. That arm is still attached at the column, but is not attached to the ear on the transmission. It LOOKS like there's a bolt on the end of the arm--can't see too well at night. What size bolt and nut do I need to buy to reattach this arm, or is it some other kind of part that goes on there to make the connection from the arm to the side of the transmission? Please let me know. I have to fix it asap, since the future wife and I are going to be using the truck on the honeymoon after the wedding this Saturday.
Im not sure I havnt glanced at mine in awhile but I'm pretty sure there is a pin with a cotter klip that goes in there(I think). But if you done get any other replies I'd rig it to your best ability for that honeymoon lol
Hey guys, my F100 (390, C6 auto) did its best to let me down tonight. I was driving it, stopped at the bank, made a deposit, then started the truck back up, only to find that the shift arm was flopping all around.
Upon inspection, I can see the shift rod that normally goes from the steering column down to the side of the C6 transmission.
The shift rod is still attached at the column, but is not attached to the manual control selector lever (7A256) on the transmission. It looks like there's a stud on the end of the shift rod.
Trans end of rod is slotted. Stud has threads on one end, groove on other end. Attaches to the back side of the selector lever using a 379620-S100 .. Spring Steel 'wavy' C clip that fits into the groove.
Stud then passes thru slot, is retained by a nut. Common problem: The clip has fallen off, the stud is no longer attached to the selector lever, but it's still connected to the shift rod.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
FTE member mikeo0o0o0 has the 1973/79 Ford Light Truck Parts Catalog on a CD, will scan and post pics from it.
Edit: Post 4: Mike posted this: Illustration Section A71, Page 7 (lowerpic) = GEARSHIFT CONTROLS (C4 & C6 TRANSMISSION) 1973/79 F100/350 = shows the entire set-up.
379620-S100 .. C Clip (pic only shows 379620-S) / 3/4" O.D. x 9/32" I.D. x 1/16" thick. Same clip used to attach 1965/79 F100/250 3 M/T shift rods to the steering column selector levers.
Ford Dealer Parts Locator System only lists 50 dealers, I'm using it from CA. So many dealers have these clips, as far east as it goes is to Arkansas. It's very possible that local GA dealers have these clips.
Closest source listed on PartsVoice.com to Athens GA: CARPENTER NOS OBSOLETE PARTS in Concord NC has 1,100 (!) = 800-476-9653.
Here is the illustration Bill is refering to. Click on the link to view.
LMC also has the clip, P/N 43-7318 pg. 48 $1.95
Also here is a picture of the stud that connects the linkage to the manual shift arm. I don't have a good picture of the clip.
I need some help figuring out this issue. It looks like it snapped and idk how to put it back together. Are there parts I can buy online that are easily accessible? Truck won’t shift out of park and I believe this is the culprit. Looks like these two pieces should be connected
That nut on the far right may have come loose in the slotted end of your shift inkage. When it does that, the indexed positions of your shift indicator in the cab will be out of sync with the shift lever on the transmission housing. I would loosen that bolt just a tad more, clean all the gunk out of that area with carb cleaner, set the lever in the cab to park, slide the linkage as far up the slot as you can, and retighten it. Use a dab of locktite. If you have time and patience for it, I also replaced the washers on that slotted linkage with nordlock or wedgelock style lock washers.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.