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i recently bought a 77 f150 custom. it has the side chrome trim that runs in the dent. its in decent shape but someone painted this truck previously and did a pretty sad job. didnt remove any emblems just painted around them. the truck is now red but was originally blue. my question is how hard is it to remove this trim without damaging it. and if i decided to leave it off how easy is it to repair the holes that attaches it to the body inorder to paint? i looked online and the trim as a kit runs nearly 700 bucks and i dont think it comes with the rubber. ive always like the dentsides that didnt have this peice.
personal preference, but I think the trim ads a nice detail. My favorite is the '77 with full race track trim. In fact I am in the middle of switching my '78 grille to a '76-77 so I can have that look.
I have taken some off of pick and pull trucks and it did not seem to bad.
Main thing is what do you want to look at every day.
The "Dent side" trim is very easy to remove 4 PITA nutz though....Next to the front blinker right in front of it there is a nut, Then open the door and feel the nut on the fender kinda slid your hand in there you'll feel it...The doors you can see one on each end and the rest just snap on/off....The Q panel you need to be a little limber theres one on the front middle above the wheel well and the back open the tailgate and look for a small hole by the stake pocket area.
Dont remove it, The "Dent side" and "Race track" trim is what sets these trucks apart from the rest of the vanilla trucks on the road.
Deleting the trim is a PITA.. ya gotta fill holes and then deal with the lil pins that are welded to the body. If ya got it, keep it. I'd troll the yards for nice pieces and eventually it'll be complete and anew.
Adding trim to a plain jane is also a PITA.. gotta drill holes and stud-weld the lil pins dead nuts level.
The PO of my 71 Pontiac convertible had it resprayed and the shop removed the emblems but masked the moulding around the back, the wheel arches, and other lil pieces. I spent a few cold winter nights carefully chipping off the overspray with picks, razor blades, and jewelers' screwdrivers.
Adding trim to a plain jane is also a PITA.. gotta drill holes and stud-weld the lil pins dead nuts level.
Not really, Find the center of the dent then use a level and make a mark, Drill holes and hold clips in place with hand or tape then pop rivet the clips on with the rivet tight then you can slid the clip over to remove just like the studs, Just make sure to file off a little on the rivet if its larger then the clip hole.
Its personal preference. My dent has an accent color and no trim and I like it that way. The dent is white and the rest of the truck is light Ford blue. If I had trim I would probably remove it and weld up the holes.
No such thing as chrome side/wheel opening mouldings, all are anodized aluminum.
Upper side mouldings on Customs were an option, same mouldings used on 1973/79 Rangers. These mouldings are plain, do not have vinyl inserts.
1973/76 Ranger XLT upper side mouldings are wider and have black vinyl inserts. Same fender, door and cab corner mouldings as 1977/79 Ranger XLT & 1978/79 Lariat w/Race Track mouldings.
HIO Silver: What "pins" are welded to the body? FoMoCo never did any such thing. 383229-S rivets were used to secure some moulding clips to body.
Not really, Find the center of the dent then use a level and make a mark, Drill holes and hold clips in place with hand or tape then pop rivet the clips on with the rivet tight then you can slid the clip over to remove just like the studs, Just make sure to file off a little on the rivet if its larger then the clip hole.
I'm referring to the OEM pins, not cheap aluminum pop rivets. Any noob can do that.
I'd leave it on there. It makes these trucks! I put on just about every piece of trim that was offered on mine. It was a pain to do, but we did it just as Ford did it. It was worth the work!
HIO Silver: What "pins" are welded to the body? FoMoCo never did any such thing. 383229-S rivets were used to secure some moulding clips to body.
Many older USA vehicles (including Ford) had studs welded to body panels to hold trim clips. Most replacement panels did not have the studs to fit trim or no trim vehicles and the manufacturers procedure was to drill holes and use rivets to hold the clips, hence parts catalogs referencing rivets not studs. There are tools available to re weld new studs on but more work and money than just drilling a hole and riveting. Stud Welder Trim Rivet Tip
Both of my 77's have the studs.
25 years in automotive parts, service and body. Have worked for the majority of the manufacturers selling the US market (including Ford) and am currently Parts Manager for GM, BMW, VW, Audi store. So I know a little bit about parts, replacement parts and field repairs for factory assembled components.
PS: Yes, I know I don't really have a 77 Super Camper Special. Just a Camper Special that is identical to a SCS minus the emblems. And my Camper Special emblems are factory mounted at front of fender under side marker lamp.
35 years in the Ford partsbiz (1962/97), I never noticed any pins/studs welded to body to retain moulding clips.
Have owned 338 vehicles since 1956. 85 FoMoCo related, including 4 new cars, 8 new trucks, 1 new SUV (see sig). Never owned an Audi, but once owned a 1939 Horch Cabriolet. August Horch was the founder of Audi.
At the end of the 1976 model run, FoMoCo dropped "Super" from the name.
1973/79 F350's on the 140" wheelbase: 1973/76 Super Camper Special / 1973/79 Regular Cab Trailer Special / 1977/79 Regular Cab Camper Special.
35 years in the Ford partsbiz (1962/97), I never noticed any pins/studs welded to body to retain moulding clips. Have owned 338 vehicles since 1956.
My point was not noticing doesn't mean it doesn't exist. Many had studs from the factory. Service replacements normally require drilling and riveting or if doing a correct restoration welding new studs on.