Installing Off-Road Lights - Need advice
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Semper Fi
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 771
Likes: 1
Installing Off-Road Lights - Need advice
I bought a set of WARN wireless off-road lights I need some electrical advice. The intructions state to wire an ignition power source to the modules trigger wire, then the positive and negative go to battery. It states to replace the fuse with at least a 20 amp when this is done. They suggest a non-flashing marker light or similar.
I bought some add-a-fuse connectors but they have a 10 amp limit.
So, where is a good place to tie into and if I use the running lamp will putting a 20 amp in the block cause any issues.
Thank You,
I bought some add-a-fuse connectors but they have a 10 amp limit.
So, where is a good place to tie into and if I use the running lamp will putting a 20 amp in the block cause any issues.
Thank You,
Cargo Master
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 3,053
Likes: 21
From: Pittsburgh, PA
If I am understanding you correctly, the add a fuse connectors won't do you any good. You need to determine what fuse in the fusebox under the dash the light you are tapping into is on and and replace that with a 20A blade fuse.
The only concern I would have with increasing the size of the fuse is the size of wire that circuit uses. Too much current through a small wire will cause it to heat up and melt the insulation. See how much current the trigger on the lights draws just to be sure.
In regards to your add-a-fuse connectors, if you have two 10 amp fuses wired in parallel, you would have a fuse rating of approximately 20 amps. I wouldn't call that a common practice though... I'd still use a single 20A fuse.
You may find some useful info in here, 2004 F250 Auxiliary Switch Install
I know the guy that wrote this is on this website and he writes the best tech articles I have ever seen. He may be able to give you a little more advice!
Good luck.
The only concern I would have with increasing the size of the fuse is the size of wire that circuit uses. Too much current through a small wire will cause it to heat up and melt the insulation. See how much current the trigger on the lights draws just to be sure.
In regards to your add-a-fuse connectors, if you have two 10 amp fuses wired in parallel, you would have a fuse rating of approximately 20 amps. I wouldn't call that a common practice though... I'd still use a single 20A fuse.
You may find some useful info in here, 2004 F250 Auxiliary Switch Install
I know the guy that wrote this is on this website and he writes the best tech articles I have ever seen. He may be able to give you a little more advice!
Good luck.
Lead Driver
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 5,326
Likes: 18
From: Gilbert
When I wired up my KC lights on my old SD (2000), the lights had their own power wire with an inline fuse (directly from the battery), their own ground, and a relay that was connected to my parking lights. That way you could only turn the kc lights on if the parking lights were on, and I'd get the chime if I left the lights on with the keys off. I would not tap into anything in your fuse box, run it all separately with new wires. That's my .02 at least.
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Semper Fi
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 771
Likes: 1
Im a dumb a$$. I read the instructions but interpreted things wrong. The 20 amp fuse they say to replace ( if it goes out) is the inline supplied by WARN that goes to battery +. I will tap into the marker light for the relay switch to energize. Thanks for the replies.
Cargo Master
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 2,624
Likes: 7
From: OR and UT
I wanted my aux lights to come on with the high beams, so I tapped the high beam 12V(+) to power the relay switch. I did it that way so there is no switch in the cab, the lights automatically come on with the high beams, which is when I need extra light.
Here's my write up, although it does not detail the wiring.
Here's my write up, although it does not detail the wiring.
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