Welp, it happened. I was driving home from town the other day on a pretty rough stretch of 2 lane when I hit a pothole, and all hell broke loose. The classic tire hop and steering wheel shimmy that feels like the whole front end is coming apart, the kind that makes you think you're gonna lose it and wind up in the ditch.

After slowing wayyyyyy down and regaining control, I paused for a minute to check my britches. A few deep breaths and I drove the rest of the way home at about 45 mph, at once deeply disturbed, kinda pi**ed, and thankful I'd gotten home safe. Now I'm wondering what the heck I'm gonna do about it.

Thing is, the truck only has about 29k on the odometer. I've driven it pretty conservatively, although there have been some extended off road excursions. When I bought the truck new in 2008, I promptly replaced the garbage OEM shocks with Bilsteins and the steering stabilizer with a Rancho. The tires (the crappy BFG Rugged Trail model) are due for replacement, but overall I don't now why I should be having this issue.

I'm going to take it in to my local 4x4 shop and have an alignment, but has anyone tried the supposed track bar fix from WC Motorsports? Any other ideas or suggestions are greatly appreciated.

 

I had this problem on a 96 f150 a few years ago. It turned out to be some loose bolts on the suspension. I tightened them up and it never returned. Not sure if it would be the same on a superduty, but that is where I would start; checking all the connections and ensuring they are tight.

29,000 miles on the odometer this probably aint it, but it is a place to jump from anyway.

 

Lots and lots of info on it here at FTE.

ReadyLift has a process to. I like it...
Ford Super Duty anti wobble trac bar

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/CZsw33SJ-lY" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>


Might need a new steering dampner. Go with a Bilstein 5100 series...

Good luck...


biz

 

Thanks for this information. Ford has been avoiding this issue for a long time. Now that this product is out Ford should have a recall on all their 2005 to present HD truck so this can be changed. Yeah right, now we have to put out another $1,000.00 (Parts and labor) just because they don't want to fix the problem. I hope this will fix my issue. Again Thanks,

 

Ford will not take care of their customers who have purchased thousands of one of their most expensive groups of vehicles. They persist in denying the inherent problems in the 6.0, for which they won a large lawsuit against Navistar.

The expensive enghine repair or replacement experienced by many of us could largely be prevented by Ford changing the initial coolant replacement to 45 thousand miles for all 6.0's, regardless of normal/severe duty, and by Ford doing a recall replacement of the egr cooler and valves. Instead of doing this, treating the customers right, Ford would rather collect their sky-high shop fees from their customers, after having collected several hundred million dollars from Navistar for the problems with the engine.

From Two-faced Ford, $750 to replace an alternator is another slap in the face to customers who thought they were paying the high price for a durable, strong truck, not paying a high price to turn around and get screwed because of a vehicle with many and serious faults and a maintenance schedule with faults.

 

Anyone using the WC Motorsports fix? Anyone? Also I'm thinking about replacing the single steering damper with a dual unit, but most all seem to be made for lifted trucks..... mine is stock, so is there a kit out there that would work? I'm losing sleep here guys - help!

 

Now you've got me all fired up (again).....death wobble, 6.0 Navistars and spark plug spitting Tritons. Looks more and more that it's going to be a Chevy next time around... They may not be perfect but I haven't heard any issues like these from Chevy owners.

 

Go to a chevy forum and talk crap over there. not gonna help? Or be considerate? See ya :-)

I've heard about the the track bar from ready lift is great. Nothing about WC Motorsports

 

Just haven't done your research yet!


biz

 

Just follow the TSB.

TSB
06-22-14
STEERING WHEEL OSCILLATION
Publication Date: October 25, 2006

FORD:
2005-2007 F-Super Duty
This article supersedes TSB 06-15-1 to update the service labor operations.

ISSUE:

Some 2005-2007 F-Super Duty vehicles may exhibit steering wheel oscillation (back and forth motion), immediately following front or rear wheel impacts (i.e. pavement joints, frost heaves, rough roads, etc.). Steering wheel motion is typically in the range of ± 5 degrees, and typically dampens out in fewer than five oscillations. This condition occurs mostly on 4X4 vehicles, and is more evident on trucks equipped with a gas engine.

ACTION:

Refer to the following Service Procedure to minimize the steering wheel oscillations on impacts, however, there may be some remaining minor oscillation which would be considered normal.

SERVICE PROCEDURE SUMMARY

Set tire pressure and road test vehicle to evaluate vehicle before proceeding with further repairs. If issue is resolved, do not proceed with the rest of this TSB
If concern still exists, check steering damper for leaks; torque steering and suspension fasteners per Workshop Manual
If concern still exists, check front alignment and reduce front caster
Replacement of redundant control steering wheel (if equipped and vehicle built prior to 10/8/2004)
VEHICLE INSPECTION - TIRE PRESSURE

Set tire pressures as indicated on the vehicle label (located on driver's door label).
NOTE: SETTING TIRE PRESSURE TO DOOR SPECIFICATION IS ONE OF THE SINGLE MOST IMPORTANT MEASURES IN RESOLVING THIS ISSUE. LOWERING TIRE PRESSURE WILL MAKE THIS ISSUE WORSE.
ROAD TEST

Ask customer what type of road surface and speed generates the steering wheel oscillation.
Road test vehicle on similar road surface and speed, to gain a feel for the customer's issue.
If no issues are identified during the road test, do not proceed with the rest of this TSB.
STEERING DAMPER INSPECTION AND STEERING/SUSPENSION FASTENER TORQUE CHECK

Wipe down and inspect the steering damper. Turn the steering wheel from lock to lock several times to cycle the steering damper and inspect for leaks.
If leaks are present, install a new steering damper.
Check torques on the following steering and suspension fasteners and adjust to specification as required (see following Table).

Torque Specification
Description Lb-ft Nm
Damper nuts (4X2) 59 80
Damper-to-bracket (F-250, F-350 4X4) 26 35
Damper-to-drag link 67 91
Drag link-to-pitman arm nut 148 201
Inner tie-rod end nuts 85 115
Outer tie-rod end nuts 85 115
Track bar bracket-to-frame nuts and bolts 129 175
Track bar-to-track bar bracket bolt 406 550
Track bar-to-axle nut 185 250
Radius arm to axle bolts 222 300
Radius arm to bracket nut 222 300

NOTE: ADJUSTING TORQUE ON STEERING AND SUSPENSION FASTENERS IS VERY IMPORTANT IN RESOLVING THIS ISSUE. FASTENERS THAT ARE IMPROPERLY TORQUED WILL MAKE THIS ISSUE WORSE.
FRONT WHEEL ALIGNMENT AND REDUCE FRONT CASTER

NOTE: OSCILLATION ISSUES RESOLVED BY WHEEL ALIGNMENT ARE WARRANTED FOR 12/12 ONLY, REGARDLESS OF OTHER STEPS PERFORMED.
Measure wheel alignment. Verify that Front Caster, Camber, and Total Toe are within specification. Adjust as required. Refer to the Workshop Manual, Section 204-00 for complete alignment specifications.

REDUCE FRONT CASTER

Note the current front caster
Use alignment adjustment bushings to reduce front caster by 0.5 to 0.75 degrees. The caster setting may be at the lower end of the specification as long as the vehicle drives smoothly. Do not put caster setting below the lower specification limit. Use alignment adjustment bushings
F-250/350 4X4:

5C3Z-3B440-CCC (0.5 degree bushing)
5C3Z-3B440-DDD (0.75 degree bushing)
5C3Z-3B440-EEE (1.0 degree bushing)
F-450/550 4X4 and 4X2:

5C3Z-3B440-HHH (0.5 degree bushing)
5C3Z-3B440-JJJ (0.75 degree bushing)
5C3Z-3B440-KKK (1.0 degree bushing)
F-250/350 4X2:

5C3Z-3B440-C (0.5 degree busing)
5C3Z-3B440-D (0.75 degree bushing)
5C3Z-3B440-E (1.0 degree bushing)
For All 4X4 and for F-450/550 4X2:

Rotate the alignment adjustment bushing so that the bushing hole is in the 45 degree forward and inboard position (See Figure 1)



Figure 1 - Article 06-22-14

This should lower the caster, while keeping the camber within the specification range. If the camber is not in the specification range than rotate the alignment adjustment bushing as needed
The final caster and camber settings must be within the specification limits
Maintain the current front camber, cross-camber and cross-caster settings as close as you possibly can
Adding weight behind the rear axle lowers the rear of the vehicle, which decreases the frame angle, which in effect increases caster
For All F-250/350 4X2:

Observe the camber position of the alignment bushing that is currently in the truck and attempt to maintain that position while moving the caster position forward in the truck
The final caster and camber settings must be within the specification limits
NOTE: CASTER SETTING IS VERY IMPORTANT IN RESOLVING THIS ISSUE. INCREASING THE CASTER SETTING WILL MAKE THIS ISSUE WORSE.
REPLACEMENT OF REDUNDANT CONTROL STEERING WHEEL - Vehicles Built Prior To 10/8/2004 Only

NOTE: THE REPLACEMENT STEERING WHEEL WILL CONTAIN THE REDUNDANT CONTROLS.
Remove driver air bag assembly. Refer to Workshop Manual, Section 211-04 for complete instructions.
Remove the steering wheel.
Install new steering wheel.
Reinstall driver air bag assembly.
Re-set clear vision as required.
NOTE: FOR ADDITIONAL INFORMATION, PLEASE REFER TO SECTION 211-04 OF THE WORKSHOP MANUAL FOR COMPLETE REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION PROCEDURES FOR THE STEERING COLUMN.


PART NUMBER PART NAME
5C7Z-3600-ABA Redundant Control Steering Wheel Assy (King Ranch Tan/Peb)
5c7z-3600-CBA Redundant Control Steering Wheel Assy (Charcoal Black)
5C3Z-3E651-D Steering Damper
5C3Z-3B440-C F-250/350 4X2 (0.5 degree bushing)
5C3Z-3B440-D F-250/350 4X2 (0.75 degree bushing)
5C3Z-3B440-E F-250/350 4X2 (1.0 degree bushing)
5C3Z-3B440-CCC F-250/350 4X4 (0.5 degree bushing)
5C3Z-3B440-DDD F-250/350 4X4 (0.75 degree bushing)
5C3Z-3B440-EEE F-250/350 4X4 (1.0 degree bushing)
5C3Z-3B440-HHH F-450/550 4X4 and 4X2 (0.5 degree bushing)
5C3Z-3B440-JJJ F-450/550 4X4 and 4X2 (0.75 degree bushing)
5C3Z-3B440-KKK F-450/550 4x4 and 4x2 (1.0 degree bushing)

 

ISSUE:

"Some 2005-2007 F-Super Duty vehicles may exhibit steering wheel oscillation (back and forth motion), immediately following front or rear wheel impacts (i.e. pavement joints, frost heaves, rough roads, etc.). Steering wheel motion is typically in the range of ± 5 degrees, and typically dampens out in fewer than five oscillations. This condition occurs mostly on 4X4 vehicles, and is more evident on trucks equipped with a gas engine."

Hah. Ha Ha Ha..... This hardly describes the violence with which the "death wobble" appears. I am not surprised Ford describes it in such mild language, as lawyers probably write this stuff. But when it happens, it is a "no s**t I'm gonna die" kind of feeling.

I run my tires at the recommended pressures, so I don't think that's it. I am taking it in for alignment and a look-see, but I wanted to know what others have done to fix the issue. I guess I'll just wait and see what the shop has to say, and go from there.

 

Did you read and follow the entire TSB? Tire pressure is just step one.

 

I have a 06 F350 6.0 Had the Death Wobble bad, when hwy driving and hit a bump.

Changed out track arm bushing

Removed stock steering stabiliser

Installed BDS Duel steering stabiliser and it drives better then a new truck, tight steering and front end, more responsive steering and as solid as a rock on the hwy

 

I put an aftermarket suspension on my truck and after a while it developed this problem. Turned out to be the rubber bushing in what i think was the track arm. it loosened up and allowed the arm to start to vibrate given the looseness in the bushing. I would have someone look at all the connections and bushings and maybe replace the bushings to make sure things are being held tightly. They aftermarket suspension place send me a hard metal bushing to replace the original one and the problem went away immediately.

 

I used to work at an off road shop and we found that if you set the Toe Out just slightly (about a half inch difference if you're measuring it) and lower the air pressure slightly (30-32 psi for most tires) this will take care of it.

Obviously this is assuming that all of your ball joints, tie rods, bushings, ect are in good shape.