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Old Nov 1, 2012 | 08:25 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by sammie0126
Ya but I'm thinking tiny hands are going to help me on Saturday when I'm trying to reach those rear plugs. Unfortunately small bodies come with small muscles, which is why I keep beating myself up working on this beast. It out weighs me by 7,549 lbs!
OT but this works wonders! Best 45.00 ive spent yet!
 
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Old Nov 1, 2012 | 08:26 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by sammie0126
Ya but I'm thinking tiny hands are going to help me on Saturday when I'm trying to reach those rear plugs. Unfortunately small bodies come with small muscles, which is why I keep beating myself up working on this beast. It out weighs me by 7,549 lbs!
I agree with the hands and also I removed everything around those last holes that was removable. I also taped a 1/2" strip of duct tape inside my socket to grab the plugs and hold them. I have also used 3M super 77 adhesive inside the socket, and you should also secure the socket to the extension with duct tape but do it good so it doesn't come apart down inside the hole. Also be careful not to lose track of what you are doing. With 10 plugs you should have a window of time with no distractions so you don't leave one not tightened. I believe 90% of the spit out plugs were caused like this and over-tightening. Don't forget anything you put on the threads will throw your torque readings off in favor of too tight. I don't torque mine but that's just me, and I do them dry.......never had a problem.
 
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Old Nov 1, 2012 | 08:31 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by Kdr358
OT but this works wonders! Best 45.00 ive spent yet!
Ironic because I bought one of those last week, think I saw a post (maybe from you) about them a while back. It came in handy today changing my wiper blades and taking off the roof rack cross bars. But for plugs it still won't be tall enough for me, I know I saw one on this forum somewhere that actually laid across the engine that you could lay prone on, but I have looked for days and can't find it again. My solution is a foam pad and a shelf board (tested it out today) going to put it across the engine front to rear edge under windshield and lay flat across it, only way I can get close enough to those rear plugs with enough torque to break them lose.
 
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Old Nov 1, 2012 | 08:31 PM
  #19  
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air tools work wonders also
 
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Old Nov 1, 2012 | 08:32 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by EXv10
I agree with the hands and also I removed everything around those last holes that was removable. I also taped a 1/2" strip of duct tape inside my socket to grab the plugs and hold them. I have also used 3M super 77 adhesive inside the socket, and you should also secure the socket to the extension with duct tape but do it good so it doesn't come apart down inside the hole. Also be careful not to lose track of what you are doing. With 10 plugs you should have a window of time with no distractions so you don't leave one not tightened. I believe 90% of the spit out plugs were caused like this and over-tightening. Don't forget anything you put on the threads will throw your torque readings off in favor of too tight. I don't torque mine but that's just me, and I do them dry.......never had a problem.
So do you tighten the plugs? Just till they are tight?
 
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Old Nov 1, 2012 | 08:34 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by Kdr358
OT but this works wonders! Best 45.00 ive spent yet!
Being 6'7" works wonders!
 
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Old Nov 1, 2012 | 08:45 PM
  #22  
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The rear plugs aren't that bad. When I did mine just over a month ago I was a bit disappointed, I was expecting more of a challenge. I didn't remove a thing, and between my different length extensions I was able to get the passenger side rear plugs out with minimal drama. I ended up sitting on the battery for that side of the engine.

I also used a good torque wrench for both the COP bolts as well as the spark plugs. I wouldn't attempt this without a torque wrench, but I don't have Brent's experience either.
 
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Old Nov 1, 2012 | 08:46 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by BroncoRN
So do you tighten the plugs? Just till they are tight?
I have developed a "sense of tightness" over the years of being a mechanic so I wouldn't recommend it to everyone. (and don't want to elaborate on it).
 
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Old Nov 1, 2012 | 08:52 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by EXv10
I agree with the hands and also I removed everything around those last holes that was removable. I also taped a 1/2" strip of duct tape inside my socket to grab the plugs and hold them. I have also used 3M super 77 adhesive inside the socket, and you should also secure the socket to the extension with duct tape but do it good so it doesn't come apart down inside the hole. Also be careful not to lose track of what you are doing. With 10 plugs you should have a window of time with no distractions so you don't leave one not tightened. I believe 90% of the spit out plugs were caused like this and over-tightening. Don't forget anything you put on the threads will throw your torque readings off in favor of too tight. I don't torque mine but that's just me, and I do them dry.......never had a problem.
Thanks for the tips. I'm good friends with duct tape and planned to make sure that socket doesn't come off. I know don't do the torque thing, but I did buy a inch pound wrench today, my 150 ft. lbs is absolutely not going to fit so got a smaller one. I plan on doing them one at a time (start to finish) and labeling the boxes and putting the plug that came out back in the labeled box; exactly for the reason you mention. I know if I take off all 10 I will lose track of where I am, but I have the whole day set aside Saturday. My brother is coming up to help (supervise and injury avoidance) but I plan on doing it myself, he's just insurance.

So many conflicting posts on here about total inch pounds to torque with and w/o anti seize, but I think I have decided on 144 inch pounds with anti seize. Using Motorcraft Platinum Plugs and Duralast boots.
 
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Old Nov 1, 2012 | 09:13 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by sammie0126
Thanks for the tips. I'm good friends with duct tape and planned to make sure that socket doesn't come off. I know don't do the torque thing, but I did buy a inch pound wrench today, my 150 ft. lbs is absolutely not going to fit so got a smaller one. I plan on doing them one at a time (start to finish) and labeling the boxes and putting the plug that came out back in the labeled box; exactly for the reason you mention. I know if I take off all 10 I will lose track of where I am, but I have the whole day set aside Saturday. My brother is coming up to help (supervise and injury avoidance) but I plan on doing it myself, he's just insurance.

So many conflicting posts on here about total inch pounds to torque with and w/o anti seize, but I think I have decided on 144 inch pounds with anti seize. Using Motorcraft Platinum Plugs and Duralast boots.
I think Ford recommends dry (you might look it up) and don't forget anything you put on the threads will make them tighter than the reading. I have always just taken them all out and put them in a pile but not with this engine. Too many holes and too many ejected plugs with these heads. Too tight and you strip the threads and too loose and they back out. 14 pounds
 
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Old Nov 1, 2012 | 09:18 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by EXv10
I think Ford recommends dry (you might look it up) and don't forget anything you put on the threads will make them tighter than the reading. I have always just taken them all out and put them in a pile but not with this engine. Too many holes and too many ejected plugs with these heads. Too tight and you strip the threads and too loose and they back out. 14 pounds
Service CD says 132 inch pounds with anti seize but read a lot of posts saying that's not tight enough, some go 20 lbs. Decided to go just a tad over the recommended and set it to 144.
 
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Old Nov 1, 2012 | 09:22 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by sammie0126
Service CD says 132 inch pounds with anti seize but read a lot of posts saying that's not tight enough, some go 20 lbs. Decided to go just a tad over the recommended and set it to 144.
Bad idea. Never go just a little over to be on the safe side (it's the unsafe side) especially when you are adding a semi-fluid to the thread. By loose I meant finger-tight which I'm sure happens too often.
 
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Old Nov 1, 2012 | 09:24 PM
  #28  
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From: Westfield, Indiana
Originally Posted by EXv10
Bad idea. Never go just a little over to be on the safe side (it's the unsafe side) especially when you are adding a semi-fluid to the thread. By loose I meant finger-tight which I'm sure happens too often.
Ok you convinced me will follow the manual and do 132 in. lbs with anti seize.
 
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Old Nov 1, 2012 | 09:30 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by sammie0126
Ok you convinced me will follow the manual and do 132 in. lbs with anti seize.
Good, the last thing you want to do is to mess up those threads. I hear these stories about guys going a little over to be on the safe side with this and that and it makes me cringe. Normally torque should be done dry but the general consensus is that anti-seize should be used on the plugs and I agree with that here.
 
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Old Nov 2, 2012 | 06:38 PM
  #30  
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OK so know I totally high jacked this thread and we got on spark plug changing, but wanted to let those who offered last minutes tips know that I got all the coils off today, cleaned around them, sucked them out with my adapted shop vac with rubber tubing and duct tape, blew compressed air into them, sucked them out again then added PB Blaster to soak over night. Had 2 of the 10 boots give me grief (second to last on both driver and passenger back sides) didn't want to come out, coil and springs came off while tugging and left boot in hole. Shot them with a little PB and used needle nose vice grips and got them out. Doesn't bode well for those plugs! Sucked out some serious gunk on the rear 2 on each side. Hopefully PB does it's job overnight.

Cleaned the MAF sensor and am considering cleaning the IAC but gave up trying to get the electrical connector off of it. Don't know how anyone without tiny hands ever gets that IAC off or for that matter gets those last two coils or plugs out.
 
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