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Old Nov 3, 2012 | 08:57 PM
  #31  
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Voltage reg is new, did smell what seemed like a burning this morning but it was only a few minutes and I believe it was just the heat because of it not being used in soo long
 
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Old Nov 4, 2012 | 06:22 PM
  #32  
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Ok I was driving on the highway and just realized I never re attached my fan shroud and looked down and seen the temp guage sitting higher than usual at 190 and instantly shut down again, pulled over poped the hood and found the same wire broke AGAIN! Re attached it and same frigging thing, fortunately the module is under warranty, but why does this keep happening could the starter solenoid be defective? It's like that wire is drawing too much current and gets soo malleable it brakes, could there be a problem with the solenoid?
 
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Old Nov 4, 2012 | 07:04 PM
  #33  
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The solenoid has nothing to do with the fusible link that keeps breaking. The solenoid only serves as a mounting point to connect the positive battery cable and the main feed to the truck's electrical system.

Something in your truck's wiring is shorting out and collapsing the fusible link. Has this truck's wiring been modified significantly? There are few things in the truck that can cook a fusible link without blowing a fuse, assuming the truck is wired as original and all fuses are at the correct rating.

You'll have to go through all wiring you can see (including behind the dash) and look for frayed or pinched insulation. I assume the item that keeps dropping is a fusible link, correct? What AWG is it?
 
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Old Nov 4, 2012 | 09:28 PM
  #34  
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The fuseable link isn't breaking it's the wire itself were it connects to the solenoid, maybe it's just soo old it's melting apart because it can't handle the amount of current it's rated for anymore?
 
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Old Nov 6, 2012 | 05:18 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by KUE798578
The fuseable link isn't breaking it's the wire itself were it connects to the solenoid, maybe it's just soo old it's melting apart because it can't handle the amount of current it's rated for anymore?
That's all a fusible link is. The first 6 inches or so of the main power feed that taps off the hot post of the solenoid and feeds the truck is specially-made "weak" wire that's designed to break before the heavy-gauge wire downstream smokes. That length of wire is called a fusible link. The little rubber piece that says "fusible link" is not the actual fusible link, it's just a label. A few inches down the path, you will see where the fusible link splices into the regular heavy-gauge wire.

I am assuming your original fusible link is still attached and this is what you're re-connecting. Please post a picture of exactly what you're seeing and what you're doing so that I can be sure we are on the same page.
 
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Old Nov 6, 2012 | 08:57 PM
  #36  
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Yes it is the original, maybe I can clarify myself a little, it's not breaking the way a fuseable link usually does "at least to my experience" it's breaking right at the eye connector that gets bolted to the solenoid, maybe I just keep damaging it when I crimp the connectors on
 
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Old Nov 6, 2012 | 11:18 PM
  #37  
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Thank you for the update. You won't be able to reliably crimp a new eye terminal to the end of a fusible link because the strands are too thin. You will need to cut out the fusible link completely (at the factory splice) and install a new fusible link. The replacement fusible link will already have a new eye terminal roll crimped to the end. You can then connect the fusible link to your truck's main power feed by soldering and shrink-wrapping the connection.

Fusible links are available at most parts stores. A fusible link must be sized two sizes below the wiring it is rated to protect (for example, use a 14 AWG link to protect 10 AWG wiring). If your original link still has the rubber label, replace it with what the label says.
 
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