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6.0L Power Stroke Diesel 2003 - 2007 F250, F350 pickup and F350+ Cab Chassis, 2003 - 2005 Excursion and 2003 - 2009 van

Bed removal - how difficult

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Old Dec 13, 2012 | 09:43 AM
  #16  
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I've seen a number of beds off just sitting on 4x4s on the ground... you could probably do the same. If you need it higher to work on cutting into the bed, get a couple of really good sturdy saw horses and set it on them. Maybe 4...

I haven't heard anyone else mention this, so it may not be an issue... on the F-350 I was just given for my lodge, the front bolt on the left side is missing... the previous owner said that when they put the bed on (swapped from a utility bed), they would have had to drop the fuel tank to get that last bolt in, so they left it off... Since nobody else has mentioned that, I'm guessing they were wrong. But may be something to verify before proceeding just in case you need extra tools and/or an empty fuel tank.
 
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Old Dec 13, 2012 | 10:48 AM
  #17  
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You can find the bolts on Ebay for a lot less than from Ford

Factory Ford F 250 F 350 Bed Bolts and Clips Used 1999 2012 | eBay

Sean
 
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Old Dec 13, 2012 | 11:08 AM
  #18  
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Those are used. You can buy them brand new for not much more from Tousley.

IIRC the bed bolts are supposed to be discarded after they are used.
 
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Old Dec 13, 2012 | 11:22 AM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by TexasA&M

Does anyone have a link to a good set of instructions (with pictures) for harpooning the tank? I'm really looking forward to being able to fill the tank without taking an extra 10 minutes nursing it in there.

Also, do I need to support the bed by any means when putting it on the ground? I'm going to need to get in it while it is off to cut the new hole for the hitch and I don't want to bung up any of the body by doing so. Any thoughts on this?
Try this:

Powerstroke Fuel Tank Modification
 
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Old Dec 13, 2012 | 03:18 PM
  #20  
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Got a new set from Tousley for $54. Didn't get the clips, but shouldn't need them.

Excellent write up on the harpoon mod. The link for inside the tank pictures is busted, so I'll keep searching for those. I guess I need to get some of the fuel line tools to disconnect mine in order to do this.
 
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Old Dec 13, 2012 | 03:33 PM
  #21  
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Here is kind of what the hoses look like in the tank:

Welcome to guzzle's In-tank Harpoon Mod Web Page
 
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Old Dec 13, 2012 | 03:42 PM
  #22  
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Perfect! That is the EXACT site I was looking for.

For those of you that have done this, did you disconnect the fuel lines running to the engine, or did you just hang the assy out of the way? I will be working from above as opposed dropping the tank, so I'm hoping that I can leave it all connected and just keep it out of the way. Seems like it will take longer to remove-install the 6" nut over the pick-up assy than it will to cut the tubes in the tank.
 
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Old Dec 13, 2012 | 03:50 PM
  #23  
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I haven't done this. But, I have read the results of bending the float rod. Be careful with that assembly!
 
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Old Dec 13, 2012 | 03:54 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by TexasA&M
Perfect! That is the EXACT site I was looking for.

For those of you that have done this, did you disconnect the fuel lines running to the engine, or did you just hang the assy out of the way? I will be working from above as opposed dropping the tank, so I'm hoping that I can leave it all connected and just keep it out of the way. Seems like it will take longer to remove-install the 6" nut over the pick-up assy than it will to cut the tubes in the tank.
You won't need a disconnect tool for the tank lines. They have "pinch clips" on the sides of the connectors. I disconnected them after lowering the tank some. If you have 4x4 drop the skid plate and/or use it to lower the tank with by floor jack. The nut on the tank is by far the hardest part to get started back IMHO. Be sure and make reference marks so you get it back on all the way. I also marked where the threads started to make it easier to start back on.
 
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Old Dec 13, 2012 | 03:56 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by amdriven2liv
I haven't done this. But, I have read the results of bending the float rod. Be careful with that assembly!
I actually tweaked my float rod to get my low fuel light to come on earlier and haven't had any issues.
 
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Old Dec 13, 2012 | 04:08 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by npccpartsman
You won't need a disconnect tool for the tank lines. They have "pinch clips" on the sides of the connectors.
Sweet. I'm already over budget thanks to having to buy tools and such, so it will be good to not have to get another one that I'll only use once.

I'm removing the bed, so I won't have to worry about dropping the tank. I'll make sure to mark the big plastic nut and also note where the threads start. I've seen several folks mention that, so it seems fairly important.
 
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Old Dec 13, 2012 | 04:23 PM
  #27  
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Yep, If you leave it loose to will weep diesel down the side
Of the tank. You may want to pick up a new tank O-ring.
The line release is really easy I happened to buy a tank
nut tool and if you are able to rig one up it goes on ta
60 ft/lb.
You will want a T55 for the bed bolts. Also spray the under
side of the bolt & nuts with some penatring oil a few days
ahead. If you want a photo of the tool just PM me.

Sean
 
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Old Dec 13, 2012 | 05:44 PM
  #28  
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I bought a T55, but it's way too big. I have a T40, and it's too small. I guess I need to get a T45 and T50 to fill in the gaps.
 
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Old Dec 13, 2012 | 07:21 PM
  #29  
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This thread might help you out a bit:

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...pictorial.html
 
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Old Dec 13, 2012 | 08:30 PM
  #30  
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Thanks for the link. That's exactly what I needed to see, but it seems like a lot of people have problems getting the bolts out, even on non-rusty trucks. Anyone here have a similar experience? I'm going to pick up a couple of Torx bits just in case, but hopefully I won't have a problem.

Should I have also gotten new clips for the frame?
 
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