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1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck

10 lb. rad. cap

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Old Oct 25, 2012 | 11:42 AM
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Angry 10 lb. rad. cap

Hi ,I have a 1983 f 150 with a 5.8.
I am having a problem with the heater leaking. I am wondering if my 15 lb pressure rad cap is sticking. I am going to buy a 10 lb. cap. will this have any negitive effects on cooling or heater preformance?
 
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Old Oct 25, 2012 | 12:01 PM
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If your heater core is leaking, than you have a leak. Changing to a lower cap will do nothing but lower the boiling point of your coolant. It will not stop a leak.
 
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Old Oct 25, 2012 | 01:25 PM
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as he said, now that you have a leak, you have to fix it.
its really not too hard to get into the heater on these old fords. i advise you bypass it for a day or two until you have a new heater core in your hands, then install the new one
 
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Old Oct 25, 2012 | 02:13 PM
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are you certain it's coming out of the cap? i would tape some toilet paper around the cap and see if it gets wet.
 
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Old Oct 25, 2012 | 03:01 PM
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Originally Posted by smashclash
are you certain it's coming out of the cap? i would tape some toilet paper around the cap and see if it gets wet.
he was hoping a lower pressure cap would cover up his heater core problem. i think he was wondering if it was stuck closed and building excessive pressure, you're thinking the other way around
 
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Old Oct 25, 2012 | 03:12 PM
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I have had old radiators that I have had to nurse along till I got the money to replace them or have them fixed, and have run 7lb caps. The only thing you will see is the water level of the radiator move more radically. If you use a overflow tank, you will see the level be higher when hot, and lower when cold. If you do not use a tank, you will see more air space in the top of the radiator. It will puke out earlier, and when it's cold, there will be less coolant in the top, but once it settles down, it will stay that way.

But the others are correct IF you have a A/C truck, the core is just too easy to replace. A non-A/C truck is a bit harder.
 
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Old Oct 25, 2012 | 03:56 PM
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franklin, i have no problem with nursing along a radiator, but i refuse to do so on a heater core. i'm just not willing to breathe in all that toxic coolant steam that concentrates in the cabin as it leaks
 
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Old Oct 25, 2012 | 06:51 PM
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Do like joshofalltrades suggested and bypass it til you can fix it. Just take one of the heater hoses coming from the engine and loop it back to the other heater hose fitting on the engine. I did that over the summer to keep a little cooler (since the heater core radiates heat even when the heater is off) and even with my raggedy old heater hose it never had a problem.

You'll want to drain out some coolant first though, I was impatient and made a huge mess when I did it. lol
 
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Old Nov 7, 2012 | 11:25 AM
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heater core replacement

Hi I replaced the heater core,
I bought the standard one from Riliels for 24.95, I would have got the high output for $2 more but they were not in stock. Are these aluminum replacements as good as the original heavy copper/brass ones? I wonder if the aluminum will last.
 
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Old Nov 7, 2012 | 11:29 AM
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Some of the aluminum ones have squared corners, rather than the rounded ones from the factory. They are a little tougher to get into place, but seem to work alright. I have been using one for 2+ years with no problems.
 
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Old Nov 7, 2012 | 01:13 PM
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as for standard vs high output heater, the cores are different in length by about 2 inches, so they aren't interchangable. my heater box is labeled high output heater, you might want to check yours for any such label
 
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Old Nov 9, 2012 | 11:58 AM
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high output heater

Thanks , I was not aware a high output was 2" longer.
 
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Old Nov 9, 2012 | 12:36 PM
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I, too, was unaware of the dimensional differences, but also, the inlet pipes are shaped differently.
 
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Old Nov 9, 2012 | 07:49 PM
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i found out when i bought the wrong one
 
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