New Project-63 Shortbed
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Freshman User
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 42
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New Project-63 Shortbed
Hey guys-noob here on Ford Trucks, but not TO Ford trucks! Currently own a 03 F-150 Lightning (stock block bolt on truck that is my daily driver, but runs into the 12s!) and have just added a 1963 F100 to my stable. To be totally honest I do not know much about this platform or motor OR trans, but I'm ready and willing to learn! What I do know is it is a short wheelbase F100 with a 292 Y block in it. It has a hacked together "true dual" exhaust set up with the stock manifolds, the front leafs have been "flipped", it has a 3 speed converted to a floor shift (Indy shifter), and has had the trim stripped and holes filled (poorly). The purpose of this truck will be as a rat-rod like cruiser, but with DD like drivability. Here are some pictures:
What it needs right off the bat:
Cab mounts/floor pans (totally rotted, the reason the cab has more rake than the bed haha)
New hood (rusted through in the front, hinge is all f'ed up)
Brake lights don't work
Passenger side window is not on the track/inner workings seem messed up possibly
Battery Box (old one is pretty rusted into the fender)
Rear end flipped (no more rake!)
More than 2 lugs per wheel (seriously...the guy sold it and said "It's drivable!")
Go through the brakes, check everything.
Things I want
New Intake
Headers
Cam it
Carb w/electric choke
Nice interior
Dual side exhaust
Wheels and tires
Newer trans swap
Matte White paint/black bed liner
Questions I have:
I have been told two things about my bed-Its wrong for my truck and it could be right for the truck MAYBE. What is the truth?
Best site for Y-block parts?
Opinions on swapping a later motor/trans combo, or just swapping the trans or going another route?
General FAQ on this truck resources?
Thanks, lookin forward to learning about this truck!
What it needs right off the bat:
Cab mounts/floor pans (totally rotted, the reason the cab has more rake than the bed haha)
New hood (rusted through in the front, hinge is all f'ed up)
Brake lights don't work
Passenger side window is not on the track/inner workings seem messed up possibly
Battery Box (old one is pretty rusted into the fender)
Rear end flipped (no more rake!)
More than 2 lugs per wheel (seriously...the guy sold it and said "It's drivable!")
Go through the brakes, check everything.
Things I want
New Intake
Headers
Cam it
Carb w/electric choke
Nice interior
Dual side exhaust
Wheels and tires
Newer trans swap
Matte White paint/black bed liner
Questions I have:
I have been told two things about my bed-Its wrong for my truck and it could be right for the truck MAYBE. What is the truth?
Best site for Y-block parts?
Opinions on swapping a later motor/trans combo, or just swapping the trans or going another route?
General FAQ on this truck resources?
Thanks, lookin forward to learning about this truck!
Thread Starter
|
Freshman User
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 42
Likes: 0
Couple other noob questions...
What bolt pattern is my truck, wheel wise? What pitch and size lugnuts will I need also?
And will a flip kit for a 65-72 F100 work on my truck? (something like this, although I've heard terrible reviews of this vendor... Airbagit FORD F100,F150 axle relocaters )
What bolt pattern is my truck, wheel wise? What pitch and size lugnuts will I need also?
And will a flip kit for a 65-72 F100 work on my truck? (something like this, although I've heard terrible reviews of this vendor... Airbagit FORD F100,F150 axle relocaters )
Posting Guru
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 1,255
Likes: 2
From: Santa Monica, CA
Hey Kid, welcome to FTE!!! I don't have all your answers but I can probably get you started with a few....
First, that "wrong bed" is the right bed for your truck. There's a lengthy explanation which you'll probably get tomorrow.
The bolt pattern, if still original, is 5x5.5. I think that rear drop kit will work on your truck but I would double-check the spring width. It might be different on the earlier models.
Randy
First, that "wrong bed" is the right bed for your truck. There's a lengthy explanation which you'll probably get tomorrow.
The bolt pattern, if still original, is 5x5.5. I think that rear drop kit will work on your truck but I would double-check the spring width. It might be different on the earlier models.
Randy
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 6,060
Likes: 7
From: Glendale Arizona
Welcome to FTE
What it needs right off the bat:
Cab mounts/floor pans (totally rotted, the reason the cab has more rake than the bed haha)
Cab mounts and new floors are made by Ricky Allen of Carolina Classics.
New hood (rusted through in the front, hinge is all f'ed up)
New hinges are available. New hoods are not you may locate a acceptable used one or have yours repaired.
Brake lights don't work
This has to be traced down to the wiring or the switch. brake lights also travel through the TS switch.
Passenger side window is not on the track/inner workings seem messed up possibly
New plastic rollers are available. New division bars and felts are produced reproduction window assemblies are available.
Battery Box (old one is pretty rusted into the fender)
New battery boxes are produced as is the inner apron.
Rear end flipped (no more rake!)
careful flipping the axle as it gets close to the frame. you may need to notch the frame and revise the bump stops. Carolina Classics has a nice flipping kit.
More than 2 lugs per wheel (seriously...the guy sold it and said "It's drivable!")
Go through the brakes, check everything.
I would recommend you add disc brakes to the front axle. fairly easy to do and makes the truck much safer. In 63 the front axle used a single puck wheel cylinder, not optimal. Speedway motors had a pretty nice kit cheep to add the discs.
Deluxe Disc Brake Kits: 1957-1964 Ford Half Ton - Speedway Motors, America's Oldest Speed Shop
Things I want
New Intake
These are made today or you can go vintage 1 2 or 3 carbs.
Headers
Reds makes a nice set for the y or use a set of speedway tru rams,
Garage Sale - Tru-Ram Ford Y Block Exhaust Manifolds - Speedway Motors, America's Oldest Speed Shop
Cam it
Placing a new cam in a Y block is difficult. I would only do this if you are refreshing the engine or rebuilding it. Y blocks us flat tappet mushroom lifters and come out from underneath. (motor needs to be out of the chassis and upside down)
Carb w/electric choke
Simple carb in the 500 CFM range.
Nice interior
Can be done by a shop or even yourself.
Dual side exhaust
functional lakes pipes look pretty good on slicks.
Wheels and tires
Lug pattern is 5 on 5.5 anything in this pattern with a 3 3/8 backspace.
Newer trans swap
Things get real expensive real quick. No trans manufactured after 1964 will fit the y pattern. Also being a three speed a T98 four speed will not bolt to the three speed bell.
Matte White paint/black bed liner
Sweet, just don't call it a rat rod.
Questions I have:
I have been told two things about my bed-Its wrong for my truck and it could be right for the truck MAYBE. What is the truth?
Your truck has the correct bed for 1963.
Best site for Y-block parts?
FORD Y
Opinions on swapping a later motor/trans combo, or just swapping the trans or going another route?
Just about any motor trans combo will fit in the engine bay. Aftermarket mounts are made for chevrolet and ford engines.
General FAQ on this truck resources?
FTE Ask away!
Garbz
What it needs right off the bat:
Cab mounts/floor pans (totally rotted, the reason the cab has more rake than the bed haha)
Cab mounts and new floors are made by Ricky Allen of Carolina Classics.
New hood (rusted through in the front, hinge is all f'ed up)
New hinges are available. New hoods are not you may locate a acceptable used one or have yours repaired.
Brake lights don't work
This has to be traced down to the wiring or the switch. brake lights also travel through the TS switch.
Passenger side window is not on the track/inner workings seem messed up possibly
New plastic rollers are available. New division bars and felts are produced reproduction window assemblies are available.
Battery Box (old one is pretty rusted into the fender)
New battery boxes are produced as is the inner apron.
Rear end flipped (no more rake!)
careful flipping the axle as it gets close to the frame. you may need to notch the frame and revise the bump stops. Carolina Classics has a nice flipping kit.
More than 2 lugs per wheel (seriously...the guy sold it and said "It's drivable!")
Go through the brakes, check everything.
I would recommend you add disc brakes to the front axle. fairly easy to do and makes the truck much safer. In 63 the front axle used a single puck wheel cylinder, not optimal. Speedway motors had a pretty nice kit cheep to add the discs.
Deluxe Disc Brake Kits: 1957-1964 Ford Half Ton - Speedway Motors, America's Oldest Speed Shop
Things I want
New Intake
These are made today or you can go vintage 1 2 or 3 carbs.
Headers
Reds makes a nice set for the y or use a set of speedway tru rams,
Garage Sale - Tru-Ram Ford Y Block Exhaust Manifolds - Speedway Motors, America's Oldest Speed Shop
Cam it
Placing a new cam in a Y block is difficult. I would only do this if you are refreshing the engine or rebuilding it. Y blocks us flat tappet mushroom lifters and come out from underneath. (motor needs to be out of the chassis and upside down)
Carb w/electric choke
Simple carb in the 500 CFM range.
Nice interior
Can be done by a shop or even yourself.
Dual side exhaust
functional lakes pipes look pretty good on slicks.
Wheels and tires
Lug pattern is 5 on 5.5 anything in this pattern with a 3 3/8 backspace.
Newer trans swap
Things get real expensive real quick. No trans manufactured after 1964 will fit the y pattern. Also being a three speed a T98 four speed will not bolt to the three speed bell.
Matte White paint/black bed liner
Sweet, just don't call it a rat rod.
Questions I have:
I have been told two things about my bed-Its wrong for my truck and it could be right for the truck MAYBE. What is the truth?
Your truck has the correct bed for 1963.
Best site for Y-block parts?
FORD Y
Opinions on swapping a later motor/trans combo, or just swapping the trans or going another route?
Just about any motor trans combo will fit in the engine bay. Aftermarket mounts are made for chevrolet and ford engines.
General FAQ on this truck resources?
FTE Ask away!
Garbz
Thread Starter
|
Freshman User
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 42
Likes: 0
Hey Kid, welcome to FTE!!! I don't have all your answers but I can probably get you started with a few....
First, that "wrong bed" is the right bed for your truck. There's a lengthy explanation which you'll probably get tomorrow.
The bolt pattern, if still original, is 5x5.5. I think that rear drop kit will work on your truck but I would double-check the spring width. It might be different on the earlier models.
Randy
First, that "wrong bed" is the right bed for your truck. There's a lengthy explanation which you'll probably get tomorrow.
The bolt pattern, if still original, is 5x5.5. I think that rear drop kit will work on your truck but I would double-check the spring width. It might be different on the earlier models.
Randy
I will need to check the spring width on her in the next few days.
Welcome to FTE
What it needs right off the bat:
Cab mounts/floor pans (totally rotted, the reason the cab has more rake than the bed haha)
Cab mounts and new floors are made by Ricky Allen of Carolina Classics.
Great resource, I see a lot of things I want!
New hood (rusted through in the front, hinge is all f'ed up)
New hinges are available. New hoods are not you may locate a acceptable used one or have yours repaired.
I meant a junkyard find "new to me" hood really-the front is rusted through, and the back where the rear hinge is is pretty bad
Brake lights don't work
This has to be traced down to the wiring or the switch. brake lights also travel through the TS switch.
What do you mean by TS?
Passenger side window is not on the track/inner workings seem messed up possibly
New plastic rollers are available. New division bars and felts are produced reproduction window assemblies are available.
I'm looking at LMC as we speak
Battery Box (old one is pretty rusted into the fender)
New battery boxes are produced as is the inner apron.
LMC here too probably haha
Rear end flipped (no more rake!)
careful flipping the axle as it gets close to the frame. you may need to notch the frame and revise the bump stops. Carolina Classics has a nice flipping kit.
Could you please give me a link? I looked through their site pretty throughly, didn't see a flip kit there. Also planning on notching the frame and boxing it in where the notch will be
More than 2 lugs per wheel (seriously...the guy sold it and said "It's drivable!")
Go through the brakes, check everything.
I would recommend you add disc brakes to the front axle. fairly easy to do and makes the truck much safer. In 63 the front axle used a single puck wheel cylinder, not optimal. Speedway motors had a pretty nice kit cheep to add the discs.
Deluxe Disc Brake Kits: 1957-1964 Ford Half Ton - Speedway Motors, America's Oldest Speed Shop
Great info, I will need to check this out
Things I want
New Intake
These are made today or you can go vintage 1 2 or 3 carbs.
Headers
Reds makes a nice set for the y or use a set of speedway tru rams,
Garage Sale - Tru-Ram Ford Y Block Exhaust Manifolds - Speedway Motors, America's Oldest Speed Shop
Cam it
Placing a new cam in a Y block is difficult. I would only do this if you are refreshing the engine or rebuilding it. Y blocks us flat tappet mushroom lifters and come out from underneath. (motor needs to be out of the chassis and upside down)
Thats a major bummer, I guess a new motor swap could be the solution though...
Carb w/electric choke
Simple carb in the 500 CFM range.
Nice interior
Can be done by a shop or even yourself.
Planning on doing most of it myself, maybe just pulling some later model buckets on some nice new carpet
Dual side exhaust
functional lakes pipes look pretty good on slicks.
Hmmmm, now that sounds like a bad *** idea. I was thinking something with just the tips showing (similar to the Lightning set up), but lake pipes or Cobra style side pipes would be cool too.
Wheels and tires
Lug pattern is 5 on 5.5 anything in this pattern with a 3 3/8 backspace.
How important is the backspacing on these trucks?
Newer trans swap
Things get real expensive real quick. No trans manufactured after 1964 will fit the y pattern. Also being a three speed a T98 four speed will not bolt to the three speed bell.
Looks like a motor and trans combo would be the better idea then
Matte White paint/black bed liner
Sweet, just don't call it a rat rod.
...rat rod
hahahaha, Im just looking for a rough around the edges look
Questions I have:
I have been told two things about my bed-Its wrong for my truck and it could be right for the truck MAYBE. What is the truth?
Your truck has the correct bed for 1963.
Best site for Y-block parts?
FORD Y
Opinions on swapping a later motor/trans combo, or just swapping the trans or going another route?
Just about any motor trans combo will fit in the engine bay. Aftermarket mounts are made for chevrolet and ford engines.
Ford all the way...thinking about a 351 swap, but may settle for a 302 if its more readily avalible
General FAQ on this truck resources?
FTE Ask away!
Garbz
What it needs right off the bat:
Cab mounts/floor pans (totally rotted, the reason the cab has more rake than the bed haha)
Cab mounts and new floors are made by Ricky Allen of Carolina Classics.
Great resource, I see a lot of things I want!
New hood (rusted through in the front, hinge is all f'ed up)
New hinges are available. New hoods are not you may locate a acceptable used one or have yours repaired.
I meant a junkyard find "new to me" hood really-the front is rusted through, and the back where the rear hinge is is pretty bad
Brake lights don't work
This has to be traced down to the wiring or the switch. brake lights also travel through the TS switch.
What do you mean by TS?
Passenger side window is not on the track/inner workings seem messed up possibly
New plastic rollers are available. New division bars and felts are produced reproduction window assemblies are available.
I'm looking at LMC as we speak
Battery Box (old one is pretty rusted into the fender)
New battery boxes are produced as is the inner apron.
LMC here too probably haha
Rear end flipped (no more rake!)
careful flipping the axle as it gets close to the frame. you may need to notch the frame and revise the bump stops. Carolina Classics has a nice flipping kit.
Could you please give me a link? I looked through their site pretty throughly, didn't see a flip kit there. Also planning on notching the frame and boxing it in where the notch will be
More than 2 lugs per wheel (seriously...the guy sold it and said "It's drivable!")
Go through the brakes, check everything.
I would recommend you add disc brakes to the front axle. fairly easy to do and makes the truck much safer. In 63 the front axle used a single puck wheel cylinder, not optimal. Speedway motors had a pretty nice kit cheep to add the discs.
Deluxe Disc Brake Kits: 1957-1964 Ford Half Ton - Speedway Motors, America's Oldest Speed Shop
Great info, I will need to check this out
Things I want
New Intake
These are made today or you can go vintage 1 2 or 3 carbs.
Headers
Reds makes a nice set for the y or use a set of speedway tru rams,
Garage Sale - Tru-Ram Ford Y Block Exhaust Manifolds - Speedway Motors, America's Oldest Speed Shop
Cam it
Placing a new cam in a Y block is difficult. I would only do this if you are refreshing the engine or rebuilding it. Y blocks us flat tappet mushroom lifters and come out from underneath. (motor needs to be out of the chassis and upside down)
Thats a major bummer, I guess a new motor swap could be the solution though...Carb w/electric choke
Simple carb in the 500 CFM range.
Nice interior
Can be done by a shop or even yourself.
Planning on doing most of it myself, maybe just pulling some later model buckets on some nice new carpet
Dual side exhaust
functional lakes pipes look pretty good on slicks.
Hmmmm, now that sounds like a bad *** idea. I was thinking something with just the tips showing (similar to the Lightning set up), but lake pipes or Cobra style side pipes would be cool too.
Wheels and tires
Lug pattern is 5 on 5.5 anything in this pattern with a 3 3/8 backspace.
How important is the backspacing on these trucks?
Newer trans swap
Things get real expensive real quick. No trans manufactured after 1964 will fit the y pattern. Also being a three speed a T98 four speed will not bolt to the three speed bell.
Looks like a motor and trans combo would be the better idea then
Matte White paint/black bed liner
Sweet, just don't call it a rat rod.
...rat rod
hahahaha, Im just looking for a rough around the edges lookQuestions I have:
I have been told two things about my bed-Its wrong for my truck and it could be right for the truck MAYBE. What is the truth?
Your truck has the correct bed for 1963.
Best site for Y-block parts?
FORD Y
Opinions on swapping a later motor/trans combo, or just swapping the trans or going another route?
Just about any motor trans combo will fit in the engine bay. Aftermarket mounts are made for chevrolet and ford engines.
Ford all the way...thinking about a 351 swap, but may settle for a 302 if its more readily avalible
General FAQ on this truck resources?
FTE Ask away!
Garbz
So what I'm still unsure about is what flip kit I should run, and maybe what motor trans combo I should be thinking about swaping in/what issues I should be aware of? Thanks guys!
Posting Guru
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 1,255
Likes: 2
From: Santa Monica, CA
Hey Kid,
Garbz is a GREAT resource on these trucks!!! He knows them inside & out and has built them in all kinds of configurations!!
So I'll hit you with a couple of quick answers and he or someone else will come along and do the heavy lifting
.....it's great that you're using the search function a lot, too. Tons of stuff has already been addressed in various ways but people are always glad to help out.
We always like pics, too!!
First, the "TS switch" is the turn signal switch and here's a link to Carolina Classics Carolina Classics, Obsolete Ford Truck Parts, truck part, ford truck part, truck body parts, classic truck part, pickup truck part, old truck part, classic ford truck part, antique truck part, old ford truck part, auto truck part, ford truck restorat
Hope that helps a little.
Garbz is a GREAT resource on these trucks!!! He knows them inside & out and has built them in all kinds of configurations!!
So I'll hit you with a couple of quick answers and he or someone else will come along and do the heavy lifting
.....it's great that you're using the search function a lot, too. Tons of stuff has already been addressed in various ways but people are always glad to help out. We always like pics, too!!
First, the "TS switch" is the turn signal switch and here's a link to Carolina Classics Carolina Classics, Obsolete Ford Truck Parts, truck part, ford truck part, truck body parts, classic truck part, pickup truck part, old truck part, classic ford truck part, antique truck part, old ford truck part, auto truck part, ford truck restorat
Hope that helps a little.
Thread Starter
|
Freshman User
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 42
Likes: 0
Hey Kid,
Garbz is a GREAT resource on these trucks!!! He knows them inside & out and has built them in all kinds of configurations!!
So I'll hit you with a couple of quick answers and he or someone else will come along and do the heavy lifting.....it's great that you're using the search function a lot, too. Tons of stuff has already been addressed in various ways but people are always glad to help out.
We always like pics, too!!
First, the "TS switch" is the turn signal switch and here's a link to Carolina Classics Carolina Classics, Obsolete Ford Truck Parts, truck part, ford truck part, truck body parts, classic truck part, pickup truck part, old truck part, classic ford truck part, antique truck part, old ford truck part, auto truck part, ford truck restorat
Hope that helps a little.
Garbz is a GREAT resource on these trucks!!! He knows them inside & out and has built them in all kinds of configurations!!
So I'll hit you with a couple of quick answers and he or someone else will come along and do the heavy lifting
.....it's great that you're using the search function a lot, too. Tons of stuff has already been addressed in various ways but people are always glad to help out. We always like pics, too!!
First, the "TS switch" is the turn signal switch and here's a link to Carolina Classics Carolina Classics, Obsolete Ford Truck Parts, truck part, ford truck part, truck body parts, classic truck part, pickup truck part, old truck part, classic ford truck part, antique truck part, old ford truck part, auto truck part, ford truck restorat
Hope that helps a little.
Still lookin for a flip kit for the back right now, and I have a feeling I'll be redoing the front flip that is on it.
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Freshman User
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 42
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Been doing a lot of "back and forth"ing this weekend...what do I do first, what direction am I going to take, what to do first, what parts do I buy, WHAT TO DO FIRST........
You see where I'm going with this haha.
What is YOUR opinion? I'm really thinking that I need to take care of the cab mounts and floor pan issue first-actually I know thats what I need to do, just not sure how to go about doing that. Should I start looking for a new cab, or buy some new floor pans (then it's from who), or just try and have a friend (very good fabricator but lives 40 minutes from me) help me fab floors and mounts.
I feel like good cabs shouldn't be impossible to find since I live In Fort Woth, TX but I'm not sure where to start looking
What do the consummate F100 experts of the internetz say??
You see where I'm going with this haha.
What is YOUR opinion? I'm really thinking that I need to take care of the cab mounts and floor pan issue first-actually I know thats what I need to do, just not sure how to go about doing that. Should I start looking for a new cab, or buy some new floor pans (then it's from who), or just try and have a friend (very good fabricator but lives 40 minutes from me) help me fab floors and mounts.
I feel like good cabs shouldn't be impossible to find since I live In Fort Woth, TX but I'm not sure where to start looking
What do the consummate F100 experts of the internetz say??
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Freshman User
Joined: Oct 2012
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Since there were no opinions I've decided to do the logical thing.
Crown Vic full frame swap time.
The hunt is on for a suitable 98+ model-would love a 01+ with PI heads, but not a lot for the amount of money I'd like to spend around here (Ft Worth, TX).
Crown Vic full frame swap time.
The hunt is on for a suitable 98+ model-would love a 01+ with PI heads, but not a lot for the amount of money I'd like to spend around here (Ft Worth, TX).
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 6,060
Likes: 7
From: Glendale Arizona
Garbz
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Freshman User
Joined: Oct 2012
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Actually, the Crown Vic DOES have a clear title. I know that because I just bought a P71 CV this afternoon, will be picking it up within the next 10 days!
No one is gonna be able to say I'm not fully invested in this build and moving forward!
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 6,060
Likes: 7
From: Glendale Arizona
Again,
Make sure the frame swap is legal before proceeding. Texas DMV may make you title it as a late model and require emissions and all that including meeting all safety regulations.
Another thing to consider with a frame swap is just what will you insure it as? If you use the Vin from the truck it will not match the frame and your insurance will walk away as it is not the vehicle they are insuring in the event of a incident.
Is the frame bad on the 63? If not there is no reason to change it as the aluminum CV front suspension will mount up to the 34" frame you have. You can not use the late model rear as it is way to wide to fit under the 57 to 60 bed.
Garbz.
Make sure the frame swap is legal before proceeding. Texas DMV may make you title it as a late model and require emissions and all that including meeting all safety regulations.
Another thing to consider with a frame swap is just what will you insure it as? If you use the Vin from the truck it will not match the frame and your insurance will walk away as it is not the vehicle they are insuring in the event of a incident.
Is the frame bad on the 63? If not there is no reason to change it as the aluminum CV front suspension will mount up to the 34" frame you have. You can not use the late model rear as it is way to wide to fit under the 57 to 60 bed.
Garbz.
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Freshman User
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I will be talking to the DMV about this swap in the next few days, and will go from there.
As far as the reason I'm going with the full frame swap-no, there doesn't seem to be anything wrong with the 63 frame I have other than one glaring thing-its a 1963 truck frame, and its showing it's age in every way possible. I see the 01 CVPI frame as a huge step forward as far as handling, comfort, and performance goes-hauling will be effected due to the cutting of the bed I'll need to do, but that doesn't worry me much too be honest. Also-why pull the motor, wiring, fuel lines, brakes, MC, trans and IFS/4 Link combo off a perfectly good frame just to put it on my old truck frame when I could just swap the body of the truck to the 01 frame? I mean no disrespect as I am very new to this platform, but for my needs and goals (weekend cruiser/occasional driver) I think this is the sensible thing to do.
As far as the rear end fitting under the wrong bed-I was not aware that they were narrower than the standard styleside beds? How much shorter are they? This is still not a huge concern as I can always have the rear end narrowed or the bed flared-not saying than F100 purists will love me afterwards but I think it is very doable!
As far as the reason I'm going with the full frame swap-no, there doesn't seem to be anything wrong with the 63 frame I have other than one glaring thing-its a 1963 truck frame, and its showing it's age in every way possible. I see the 01 CVPI frame as a huge step forward as far as handling, comfort, and performance goes-hauling will be effected due to the cutting of the bed I'll need to do, but that doesn't worry me much too be honest. Also-why pull the motor, wiring, fuel lines, brakes, MC, trans and IFS/4 Link combo off a perfectly good frame just to put it on my old truck frame when I could just swap the body of the truck to the 01 frame? I mean no disrespect as I am very new to this platform, but for my needs and goals (weekend cruiser/occasional driver) I think this is the sensible thing to do.
As far as the rear end fitting under the wrong bed-I was not aware that they were narrower than the standard styleside beds? How much shorter are they? This is still not a huge concern as I can always have the rear end narrowed or the bed flared-not saying than F100 purists will love me afterwards but I think it is very doable!
Posting Guru
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 1,255
Likes: 2
From: Santa Monica, CA
As far as the rear end fitting under the wrong bed-I was not aware that they were narrower than the standard styleside beds? How much shorter are they? This is still not a huge concern as I can always have the rear end narrowed or the bed flared-not saying than F100 purists will love me afterwards but I think it is very doable!
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Freshman User
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 42
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I believe the shortbed version of the wrongbed is the same length as the '64-66 styleside shortbed. In fact, if I was going to go to all the trouble to do a frame swap, I think I'd find the "right" styleside bed to go on it instead of the "wrongbed".....just a thought.