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Old Oct 21, 2012 | 03:09 PM
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Alternator removal

I am just undertaking the removal of my alternator on my 2000 excursion V10 and reading how to do this reads;
"Disconnect the wiring harness from the back of the alternator by hand"
Easier said than done......
There are release clips on the two plug in connectors and before I break them or pull the wires out thought I'd ask if anyone could explain quickly what tool I need to release these two pressure points for the two connectors.
Many thanks...
 
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Old Oct 21, 2012 | 04:03 PM
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I think, but I am not 100% sure, that if you pry up on the tabs with a screwdriver and wiggle the connector back and forth while pulling it will come off.
 
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Old Oct 21, 2012 | 08:06 PM
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I did that for about half an hour, any more I was just going to rip them out. Problem is that it's difficult to see the actual sockets and was specifically asking for a description of what I'm looking at. The large connector has two ribs that seem to have to be lifted together, this is disastrous if you don't know exactly what you doing. I've tried about everything with the one with the single wire. Help...
 
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Old Oct 21, 2012 | 10:11 PM
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Originally Posted by Estam
I did that for about half an hour, any more I was just going to rip them out. Problem is that it's difficult to see the actual sockets and was specifically asking for a description of what I'm looking at. The large connector has two ribs that seem to have to be lifted together, this is disastrous if you don't know exactly what you doing. I've tried about everything with the one with the single wire. Help...
Get a flashlight and a little hand mirror (I have 2 sizes) and take a close look at exactly what they look like. Sometimes it takes needle nose pliers or maybe just a screwdriver.
 
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Old Oct 22, 2012 | 08:41 AM
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If you are replacing the alternator, best is to look at the connection on the new one to see how it locks in place. Then you can figure out how to remove it.

Mine is '02 so it's different from yours.
 
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Old Oct 22, 2012 | 05:24 PM
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Alternator removed with small instrument screwdriver, small flashlight and 10mm socket. Thanks all for your input. Replaced alternator and still no charging, batt light stays on. Had purchased a new top grade battery from AZ last month so I'm a bit stumped what to do now. Before I take the alternator back I would like make sure there isn't anything external that could be causing this. There are two connectors with three wires on one and one on the other. Does anyone have a schematic that tells where these originate. There seems to be a solid state voltage sensing regulator attached to the rear of the alternator so the windings will be exited from within. So am I missing a voltage or something. Would appreciate any help. Many thanks...
 
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Old Oct 22, 2012 | 05:32 PM
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I would have both alternators bench tested. You could have gotten a bad reman. alternator.
 
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Old Oct 22, 2012 | 07:53 PM
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Thanks, That will be what I will do but first I need to know what those connections are to eliminate something stupid. BTW, I purchased a new alternator for $150, no reman for my X. :-))
 
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Old Oct 22, 2012 | 11:01 PM
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Where did you get a new alt. for $150? They're typically over $600 new. Remanufactured is typically in the $150 range.
 
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Old Oct 23, 2012 | 02:10 PM
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The Auto Zone price for new Duralast Gold model DLG3512-18-19 is $149 and a reman is $125.
 
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Old Oct 23, 2012 | 02:18 PM
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Bench tested both alternators, they both passed. Problem is something external to these components. The truck is in good clean shape, checked all grounds and checked and re-cleaned battery terminals, all good. I am just going to have to grab a book and find out what those connectors connect too.
 
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Old Oct 23, 2012 | 02:38 PM
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Look for a blown fuse-link in one of the battery + cables. Check your manual for a fuse position in fuse box. Thin orange/blue wire and green/red wire are seperately fused one from motor fuse box and other in kick panel. 20/30 amp fuses? Both wires are in plug into alternator connector.
 
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Old Oct 24, 2012 | 04:08 PM
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Thanks Papa, Checked fuses and there is only one #29 and if that's blown the charge indicator would not be lite and mine is lite showing no charge.

The A circuit in the alternator receives battery voltage from the starter solenoid via an orange/blue wire which is mounted on the passenger fender next to the battery.

Measured for continuity between the alternator and the starter solenoid and found it to be open circuit. The fuseable link is at the lower part where you can just see orange in the wire. I will have to figure out what to do here.

I have a picture but don't know how to post it, maybe someone could explain.
 
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Old Oct 24, 2012 | 04:29 PM
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Originally Posted by Estam
Thanks Papa, Checked fuses and there is only one #29 and if that's blown the charge indicator would not be lite and mine is lite showing no charge.

The A circuit in the alternator receives battery voltage from the starter solenoid via an orange/blue wire which is mounted on the passenger fender next to the battery.

Measured for continuity between the alternator and the starter solenoid and found it to be open circuit. The fuseable link is at the lower part where you can just see orange in the wire. I will have to figure out what to do here.

I have a picture but don't know how to post it, maybe someone could explain.
Get a free Photobucket account, click on "upload pictures", copy and paste your picture, in your new "photo album" mouse over the picture to bring up the rectangles below it, right click on "image code" (second rectangle down), copy and paste directly into your FTE post.........done.
 
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Old Oct 25, 2012 | 11:14 AM
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Found an open circuit between the alternator (A circuit) and the big lug. The fuseable link is just above where the orange wire is just visible.

http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/...m/12Before.jpg
 
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