Hi all,

Looking to find out as much as I can as far as performance additions for an '88 F150.

Ive been reading for the past few weeks - Ive seen Comp Cams 2020/2021, 1.7 ratio rocker arms (no reports on those two playing nice), Shorty Headers, PCV valve reroute, K&N FIPK, even as much as building a DIY intake to take in air from the grill.

However, im looking for the biggest bang for the buck - Ive already done the "6litre" tuneup, the only piece i didnt know how to or have the tools to complete was to advance the timing, which still scares me. MSD/Street Fire TFI coil(48,000v), Accel Spark wires, MSD distributor cap, new plugs (gapped to ~.050, any more and it ran really rich.) I only use 87 octane fuel.

Transmission has 1,000~ miles on it since rebuild - performance Torque Converter and slight shift kit (Apparently they "drilled" the valve body, their terminology).

Rear end is 3.55 gears. Non-locking diff. (looking to change that, any suggestions on locking additions?)

255-70-R15 in back, 235-70-R15 in front. I dont do the big tires thing, its a 2WD.

No lift kits or suspension work as of yet, looking to build/buy a front end sway bar. (Suggestions?)

Also noticing a lot of twist(not the word im looking for) in the rear-end. Looking to build/buy traction bars. Really looking to build these. Most seem to just bolt to the leaf springs?

Front end brake disc, rear end drum brakes. Do the drilled/slotted/vented brakes on the front end make that much of a difference? Is it a waste to do disc brakes on a rear end that is so light? (4200lbs)

I know there is a ton here, but honestly any and all help would be GREATLY appreciated. Pics if you want - 88' F150 Single Cab/Short Bed XLT Lariat.

 

Biggest performance bang for your buck is a cam change but if you're spooked about adjusting the timing it's not likely you're gonna tackle that job by yourself so maybe just add 1.7 rockers. If you do a cam swap it has to be SD EFI friendly which means no less than 114 LSA and no more than 210deg duration at 0.050" lift. Your motor currently has a flat tappet cam in it but if you want ultimate reliability you may want to consider converting to a roller.

Rear disks won't help much on a lightweight 2wd that doesn't carry or tow heavy loads, braided steel lines on the front will help if you find the brakes lacking.
A front sway bar is a must to have anything remotely close to something that could be confused with "handling", so if your truck isn't so equipped get one on there asap.

 

You don't know how to adjust the timing?

 

Something about loosening the distributor and finding timing marks. Doesn't make a whole hell of a lot of sense. The guides I've read all seem to assume that the reader has done it before.

@Conanski:
Pictures of the braided steel lines? Why does it make a difference? Where can they be found? And a sway bar is on the top of the list. Body roll is worse than my moms Tahoe.

 

The stock rubber lines bulge under pressure and the braided lines don't, so more pressure is applied to the brakes.

Summit Racing Russell Performance 696150 - Russell Street Legal Brake Line Kits - Overview - SummitRacing.com

 

You're awesome. Anything else you can add asides from brake lines?

 

Yes.. get yourself a timing light and learn how to use it.

Equus 3555 - Equus Advance Timing Lights - Overview - SummitRacing.com

 

Yeah, pay 60 bucks for a glorified flashlight to use one time. Makes perfect sense.

 

Yes it is a glorified flashlight that is super bright and has a trigger mechanism so it only turns on when the cylinder it is attached (#1 cylinder for setting timing) fires. Thar way it lights up the timing mark on theharmonic balancer and the timing indicator, and you can tell exactly haw many degrees of timing are in the engine.

 

So you're an expert now? You go ahead and try to set the timing with a flashlight.. see how far you get.

 

This is getting off topic.

 

The 6 litre tune up is one of the least expensive ans quickest ways to gain power and economy out of the speed density engines. part of the 6 litre tune up is advanceing the engine timing from the factory 10* to 12* new plugs with a wider gap, quality plug wires and a hotter coil. To advance timing you need a timing light. If you try to eyebal moving the distributor you will advance it too far and cause detonation. Detonation will usually cause a catastrophic failur to your engine. So find a freind with a timing light or buuy a timing light. Also get a Chiltons or haynes manual for your truck.

Matt

 

I have the Chilton manual.

 

any other ideas guys?

How about the PCV hose reroute?

 

Here ya' go: PCV Reroute - FSB Forums