Removing the engine - what is easier?
FTE Legend
Joined: Jun 2006
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From: Ottawa, Ontario
All the sheetmetal ahead of the cab.. fenders and rad support and everything attached to them.. grill, lights, trim, battery, etc.
FTE Legend
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 31,930
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From: Ottawa, Ontario
Exactly.. I have lots of plywood laying around so that's what I did. With a manual trans I'd just remove the rad but with an auto you have the trans cooler lines connected as well so rather mess with rusted fittings and risk damaging the lines or the rad a piece of plywood is easier.
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Posting Guru
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ummmmm... noo. I am not taking all that crap off. Thx
Senior User
Joined: Jan 2008
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From: Ft. Worth, Texas
If you have that plate where the shifter should go, then you got it "made in the shade!" Not many trucks have that plate. I wish mine did even though I made one. Yes, definitely go for it by taking off this plate. It also makes it a ton easier when getting to the tranny coolant lines.
Senior User
Joined: May 2010
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No need to remove the trans tunnel plate, just long extension and a swivel socket.
These trucks are roomy and the bolts are easy to reach. Newer trucks are harder, but still don't need to pull the transmission. The most you would ever have to do is pull the crossmember and use a jack to lower the trans to gain access to the upper bellhousing bolts, but you don't need to do this on an older truck.
Ford likes to make their torque converter bolts out of relatively soft metal. I always make sure to use a good 6 point and make sure its on square.
I usually put a couple pieces of cardboard in front of the radiator, don't always need to, but its cheap insurance.
When going back in be sure to do like dieselbrad says and have the torque converter all the way back, and having the bolts lined up fairly close to the flexplate holes makes life easier.
These trucks are roomy and the bolts are easy to reach. Newer trucks are harder, but still don't need to pull the transmission. The most you would ever have to do is pull the crossmember and use a jack to lower the trans to gain access to the upper bellhousing bolts, but you don't need to do this on an older truck.
Ford likes to make their torque converter bolts out of relatively soft metal. I always make sure to use a good 6 point and make sure its on square.
I usually put a couple pieces of cardboard in front of the radiator, don't always need to, but its cheap insurance.
When going back in be sure to do like dieselbrad says and have the torque converter all the way back, and having the bolts lined up fairly close to the flexplate holes makes life easier.
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Posting Guru
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There is no way to get to the two top bolts between engine and tranny without removing the Plenum or lowering the tranny. My performer Plenum is much taller than stock but I couldn't get to those bolts without taking off the stock Plenum either. I didn't take off the trans tunnel plate because I had some wires going through there but I'll look at it after I remove the motor and have room to look
The motor is ready to come out now. Just did as I always had. Was hoping to find a shortcut
The motor is ready to come out now. Just did as I always had. Was hoping to find a shortcut
Posting Guru
Joined: Nov 2008
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From: Pennsylvania Wilds
I bet you a case of beer I can take the front clip off one of these trucks faster than you can unbolt the trans from the motor.
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It'd have to be whiskey and is the challenge before or after consumption?
Cargo Master
Joined: Mar 2010
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From: Laramie, WY
If I remember right I used a swivel impact socket and two? long extensions. It was pretty easy...or I'd remember exactly what I had to do. Those damn manifold to downpipe nuts are the ****ty one. Get them glowing red then hit with an impact, but they still suck.
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That's why I loved going to headers. Both my manifolds were cracked, so I unbolted them, then smacked them with a small sledge...no more manifolds...
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I can definitely see how it's possible to reach the two top bolts via the trans tunnel plate. I have my trans raised because the engine is out but when the engine is in, those bolts are a straight shot.
My problem now is I don't think I can get the motor out without removing the Plenum. The motor has to first come up, out of the mounts before it can go forward. Could I remove the mounts from the motor and then move it forward?
My problem now is I don't think I can get the motor out without removing the Plenum. The motor has to first come up, out of the mounts before it can go forward. Could I remove the mounts from the motor and then move it forward?