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Which Radiator?

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Old Oct 18, 2012 | 01:17 PM
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Which Radiator?

I need to replace my Radiator. 1987 f-250 with a 6.9 diesel. Which one should I get and where do I get it? I don't want to have to modify anything. Just R&R.
Thanks so much.
 
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Old Oct 18, 2012 | 02:08 PM
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I used the aluminum one from autozone, just over 300 and includes lifetime warranty
 
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Old Oct 18, 2012 | 04:21 PM
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There are two different sizes of radiator for our trucks. One came with trucks with factory AC and is known as the tall/skinny one. The other is known as the short/wide one. Most came with the former. They are NOT interchangeable. If you have the tall/skinny one, you have a few options. A lot of guys, myself included, are running the Champion aluminum radiators found all over eBay with pretty good results. Simple plug n play unit.

Mike
 
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Old Oct 18, 2012 | 07:03 PM
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Radiator

Originally Posted by Marlinman10
I need to replace my Radiator. 1987 f-250 with a 6.9 diesel. Which one should I get and where do I get it? I don't want to have to modify anything. Just R&R.
Thanks so much.
Go to Champion Radiator, Aluminum radiators, Racing radiator and look at model CC 1165.. It is a direct replacement for your truck I believe...I bought one and really like it...Read about it...it is heavy duty...

Best thing...only $229.00 plus $25.00 shipping...
 
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Old Oct 19, 2012 | 12:38 PM
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Thanks. I looked at them and they seem fine. I'm going through the whole cooling system. I'll let you know how it goes.
 
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Old Oct 19, 2012 | 12:44 PM
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I went with one off of ebay for around 225 shipped. Very nice unit and you have your choice of the very large 2 core with like 1" cores or the 3 core with 3/4" cores.
Rob
 
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Old Oct 19, 2012 | 01:04 PM
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Radiator

Originally Posted by Marlinman10
Thanks. I looked at them and they seem fine. I'm going through the whole cooling system. I'll let you know how it goes.
Yeah I just went thru my whole cooling system just a while back. Mine needed everything...All new hoses, t-stat, heater hoses, coolant by-pass filter, clamps, coolant, & flushing.

I did the flushing before installing anything. I didn't use that wimpy no account crap that everybody wastes their money on either. I used Permatex 80030 HD. It is 30% hydrochloric acid...Very strong stuff, but it is not for aluminum. Permatex has one for aluminum tho. I am sure the stuff I used cleaned out the coolant passages(tubes) in the oil cooler as well as got rid of most all the scale and rust from the block as evidenced from looking inside via the lower hose and t-stat mount
...not counting the flushing water.

After flushing with the Permatex, I replaced the block plugs with petcock valves and flushed twice more with Arm & Hammer baking soda and tapp water. Then flushed twice more with distilled water, then replaced all hoses, put in new thermostat, and installed new radiator and by-pass filter system. Filled her up with 3 1/2 gallons of Fleetcharge anti-freeze and the rest with distilled water.

It was a lot of work, but she needed it and I want to protect the "new" cooling system...The old radiator is now squeeky clean, but it has a leak. I might check into seeing how much it cost to fix it and sell it..

Anyway...good luck man...and do let me know how goes it...or if you have any questions....BTW...My temps stay right on 185 to 190 according to my aftermarket gauge and fan clutch hardly comes on when towing hard pulls.
 
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Old Oct 19, 2012 | 03:00 PM
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Wait, so you're saying your OE unit is the one that leaked, right? In other words, you did all that cleaning/flushing, then your original leaked, so then you got a Champion unit?

Just checking that your Champion isn't giving you any problems. I've only had mine for a month or so, and I'm not used to buying/using eBay parts, so I'm still a bit nervous. Everyone seems to really like them, though.

Mike
 
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Old Oct 19, 2012 | 03:35 PM
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Just Checking

Originally Posted by whiteboyslo
Wait, so you're saying your OE unit is the one that leaked, right? In other words, you did all that cleaning/flushing, then your original leaked, so then you got a Champion unit?

Just checking that your Champion isn't giving you any problems. I've only had mine for a month or so, and I'm not used to buying/using eBay parts, so I'm still a bit nervous. Everyone seems to really like them, though.

Mike
My original 26 year old brass and copper factory radiator was leaking before I flushed and I've never had good luck at radiator repair shops. Plus, like I said it was original, so I decided to go with a new Champion...

All the flushing I did was while the 26 year old original was still in the truck. I didn't want that Permatex 80030 HD chemical touching my new aluminum radiator or any of the new hoses etc...it's very acidic, that's why I flushed twice with baking soda to neutralize it and flush some more to get rid of all the soda. I also used ph strips to make sure the last flushes came out with a ph of 7 (which is neutral) with the distilled water...Then I installed all the new stuff...
 
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Old Oct 19, 2012 | 03:52 PM
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Gotcha. Just checking. Mine was similar. Did all the flushing and added Fleetcharge coolant like a good boy should, only to have the radiator develop a pinhole leak a few months later. Oh well. No good deed.......

Mike
 
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Old Oct 19, 2012 | 04:03 PM
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Pinhole Leak

Originally Posted by whiteboyslo
Gotcha. Just checking. Mine was similar. Did all the flushing and added Fleetcharge coolant like a good boy should, only to have the radiator develop a pinhole leak a few months later. Oh well. No good deed.......

Mike
Sorry to hear about that leak. Pinholes are the worst cuz they can be hard to find like mine was on my old radiator and can make a guy think leaking head gasket.

Anyway, I really like that Fleetcharge and a good by-pass filter set-up. I can't say for sure, but I think the by-pass set-up really did extend the life of my original radiator...If it's good enough for the big trucks, it's good enough for me...And I have only had to replace my waterpump once in 20 yrs...So...Anyway, I think I caused my old radiator to develop it's leak when I thought I was being smart and put on a 16 lb. cap...I now have a 13 lb. again like it is supposed to have...
 
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Old Oct 21, 2012 | 02:40 AM
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I have put the Champion 3 row in both of my trucks now, and am pleased with the quality of the radiator. However, if you have an auto tranny, and plan to use the trans cooler, it is not exactly a bolt in conversion. If you have a manual tranny this won't matter to you, but with an auto, the trans cooler fittings are not the same. The fittings for the trans fluid lines are different than the ones in your existing radiator. The Champion radiator comes with new hose barbs and nuts which are in a package loose in the box. Don't do what I did and throw away the fittings with the box, and scramble to find fittings that will work! as it turns out, the solution I came up with works better because it puts the clamps outside the radiator support for easier tightening, but it was a nervous scramble to come up with the right parts. Also, the threads for the water line that goes into the bottom of the radiator are not the right threads. they are a standard thread, where the existing hose barb is a NPT thread. I solved the problem by buying a NPT tap and re-threading my brand new radiator, it worked great, but it was tense going on the first one!

Just a heads up!

Mac.
 
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Old Oct 21, 2012 | 12:50 PM
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Thanks for the info. I ordered the champion and that's a bummer you have to do anything to it. I'm not going to tap anything. I'll send it back. I do have auto.
 
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Old Oct 21, 2012 | 11:29 PM
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Originally Posted by akamacgyver
I have put the Champion 3 row in both of my trucks now, and am pleased with the quality of the radiator. However, if you have an auto tranny, and plan to use the trans cooler, it is not exactly a bolt in conversion. If you have a manual tranny this won't matter to you, but with an auto, the trans cooler fittings are not the same. The fittings for the trans fluid lines are different than the ones in your existing radiator. The Champion radiator comes with new hose barbs and nuts which are in a package loose in the box. Don't do what I did and throw away the fittings with the box, and scramble to find fittings that will work! as it turns out, the solution I came up with works better because it puts the clamps outside the radiator support for easier tightening, but it was a nervous scramble to come up with the right parts. Also, the threads for the water line that goes into the bottom of the radiator are not the right threads. they are a standard thread, where the existing hose barb is a NPT thread. I solved the problem by buying a NPT tap and re-threading my brand new radiator, it worked great, but it was tense going on the first one!

Just a heads up!

Mac.
What water line are you talking about? My old radiator has of course a upper and lower radiator hose and two tranny fluid hoses and nothing else.
 
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Old Oct 21, 2012 | 11:45 PM
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Marlinman, both my trucks are 7.3's a 93 and a 94, IDK if the 6.9 had one, but there is a t from the heater hose that goes to the bottom of the radiator. It is a 5/8" hose. It is supposed to help warm the trans fluid in the cooler faster to get the trans up to temp faster. Your radiator will have the port for it capped with an aluminum cap so you should be good to go. I'll see if I can find pics.
 
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