Which Radiator?
There are two different sizes of radiator for our trucks. One came with trucks with factory AC and is known as the tall/skinny one. The other is known as the short/wide one. Most came with the former. They are NOT interchangeable. If you have the tall/skinny one, you have a few options. A lot of guys, myself included, are running the Champion aluminum radiators found all over eBay with pretty good results. Simple plug n play unit.
Mike
Mike
Radiator
Best thing...only $229.00 plus $25.00 shipping...
Radiator
I did the flushing before installing anything. I didn't use that wimpy no account crap that everybody wastes their money on either. I used Permatex 80030 HD. It is 30% hydrochloric acid...Very strong stuff, but it is not for aluminum. Permatex has one for aluminum tho. I am sure the stuff I used cleaned out the coolant passages(tubes) in the oil cooler as well as got rid of most all the scale and rust from the block as evidenced from looking inside via the lower hose and t-stat mount
...not counting the flushing water.
After flushing with the Permatex, I replaced the block plugs with petcock valves and flushed twice more with Arm & Hammer baking soda and tapp water. Then flushed twice more with distilled water, then replaced all hoses, put in new thermostat, and installed new radiator and by-pass filter system. Filled her up with 3 1/2 gallons of Fleetcharge anti-freeze and the rest with distilled water.
It was a lot of work, but she needed it and I want to protect the "new" cooling system...The old radiator is now squeeky clean, but it has a leak. I might check into seeing how much it cost to fix it and sell it..
Anyway...good luck man...and do let me know how goes it...or if you have any questions....BTW...My temps stay right on 185 to 190 according to my aftermarket gauge and fan clutch hardly comes on when towing hard pulls.
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Wait, so you're saying your OE unit is the one that leaked, right? In other words, you did all that cleaning/flushing, then your original leaked, so then you got a Champion unit?
Just checking that your Champion isn't giving you any problems. I've only had mine for a month or so, and I'm not used to buying/using eBay parts, so I'm still a bit nervous. Everyone seems to really like them, though.
Mike
Just checking that your Champion isn't giving you any problems. I've only had mine for a month or so, and I'm not used to buying/using eBay parts, so I'm still a bit nervous. Everyone seems to really like them, though.
Mike
Just Checking
Wait, so you're saying your OE unit is the one that leaked, right? In other words, you did all that cleaning/flushing, then your original leaked, so then you got a Champion unit?
Just checking that your Champion isn't giving you any problems. I've only had mine for a month or so, and I'm not used to buying/using eBay parts, so I'm still a bit nervous. Everyone seems to really like them, though.
Mike
Just checking that your Champion isn't giving you any problems. I've only had mine for a month or so, and I'm not used to buying/using eBay parts, so I'm still a bit nervous. Everyone seems to really like them, though.
Mike
All the flushing I did was while the 26 year old original was still in the truck. I didn't want that Permatex 80030 HD chemical touching my new aluminum radiator or any of the new hoses etc...it's very acidic, that's why I flushed twice with baking soda to neutralize it and flush some more to get rid of all the soda. I also used ph strips to make sure the last flushes came out with a ph of 7 (which is neutral) with the distilled water...Then I installed all the new stuff...
Gotcha. Just checking. Mine was similar. Did all the flushing and added Fleetcharge coolant like a good boy should, only to have the radiator develop a pinhole leak a few months later. Oh well. No good deed.......
Mike
Mike
Pinhole Leak
Anyway, I really like that Fleetcharge and a good by-pass filter set-up. I can't say for sure, but I think the by-pass set-up really did extend the life of my original radiator...If it's good enough for the big trucks, it's good enough for me...And I have only had to replace my waterpump once in 20 yrs...So...Anyway, I think I caused my old radiator to develop it's leak when I thought I was being smart and put on a 16 lb. cap...I now have a 13 lb. again like it is supposed to have...
I have put the Champion 3 row in both of my trucks now, and am pleased with the quality of the radiator. However, if you have an auto tranny, and plan to use the trans cooler, it is not exactly a bolt in conversion. If you have a manual tranny this won't matter to you, but with an auto, the trans cooler fittings are not the same. The fittings for the trans fluid lines are different than the ones in your existing radiator. The Champion radiator comes with new hose barbs and nuts which are in a package loose in the box. Don't do what I did and throw away the fittings with the box, and scramble to find fittings that will work! as it turns out, the solution I came up with works better because it puts the clamps outside the radiator support for easier tightening, but it was a nervous scramble to come up with the right parts. Also, the threads for the water line that goes into the bottom of the radiator are not the right threads. they are a standard thread, where the existing hose barb is a NPT thread. I solved the problem by buying a NPT tap and re-threading my brand new radiator, it worked great, but it was tense going on the first one!
Just a heads up!
Mac.
Just a heads up!
Mac.
I have put the Champion 3 row in both of my trucks now, and am pleased with the quality of the radiator. However, if you have an auto tranny, and plan to use the trans cooler, it is not exactly a bolt in conversion. If you have a manual tranny this won't matter to you, but with an auto, the trans cooler fittings are not the same. The fittings for the trans fluid lines are different than the ones in your existing radiator. The Champion radiator comes with new hose barbs and nuts which are in a package loose in the box. Don't do what I did and throw away the fittings with the box, and scramble to find fittings that will work! as it turns out, the solution I came up with works better because it puts the clamps outside the radiator support for easier tightening, but it was a nervous scramble to come up with the right parts. Also, the threads for the water line that goes into the bottom of the radiator are not the right threads. they are a standard thread, where the existing hose barb is a NPT thread. I solved the problem by buying a NPT tap and re-threading my brand new radiator, it worked great, but it was tense going on the first one!
Just a heads up!
Mac.
Just a heads up!
Mac.
Marlinman, both my trucks are 7.3's a 93 and a 94, IDK if the 6.9 had one, but there is a t from the heater hose that goes to the bottom of the radiator. It is a 5/8" hose. It is supposed to help warm the trans fluid in the cooler faster to get the trans up to temp faster. Your radiator will have the port for it capped with an aluminum cap so you should be good to go. I'll see if I can find pics.




