Do you happen to know what the resistance is between the inside of the cluster to the fuel gauge? and or oil and temp sensors?

 

I haven't measured the resistance of the wiring or the connectors. The resistance of the gauges themselves is somewhere earlier in the thread, as is the resistance range of the senders. But, given the low resistance of the gauges and senders I doubt the resistance of the wires and connectors will be a factor.

 

yeah the gauges are about a typical ford 12 to 13, and senders are typical ford 73-10's. The only difference is the inline resistor. You should read at full if that was bypassed at 5v. I am guessing its a accidental short resistor. But i know these trucks have a bit of connectors and long runs to the back. I have read about 10 ohms from front to back in the harness in some older cars. Thats why I ask.

 

I wouldn't expect to see that much resistance in the wiring, but I will check in about a week when I get home. However, that reading will probably depend on the truck and the condition of its connectors and harnesses.

 

so a few days ago i recieved the ICVR that ic237 offered here, and so far its been great. with a full tank, the gage is 1/8" over the full line, and goes a touch below the empty line at that extreme. temp gage has calmed down and sits nice and steady instead of spiking all the time. the oil gage reads a little lower than it did before, mostly on the n-o of "normal", and varies with engine speed as it should.

so his unit is simple, compact, easy to connect, and so far is working great. it came with about 8" wires with the proper connections on the end, so i mounted it off one of the studs on the stock oil gage using a single 10-32 nut

 

Josh - I'm glad it works so well. It is good to have options. Isn't it amazing how much better the gauges behave with steady voltage to them? I marvel every time I drive Dad's truck now since the gauges just work. I keep waiting for them to bobble like they always have, but they never do.

 

I too received a regulator from ic237, and it works great for me as well. I just taped my onto the edge of the cluster though.

 

I just wanted to post some pictures of my installation. I used one pictured earlier in this thread, or at least similar. I used the 25W one, as the other was out of stock at the time, and a little more heat dissipating ability can never be bad. The original location I'm using has turned out to cause a slight interference with how the cluster mounts in the dash assembly. I haven't got it all sorted quite yet thanks to very limited time over the holidays. Darn holidays...

 

Thanks for the pics. And, please let us know how it works for you.

 

Looks very neat and tidy. I thought however that you would use this in place of the old CVR. I guess I misunderstood

Can someone explain to me why it is sometimes described as an ICVR and sometimes CVR?

 

Don't think I've seen CVR used. I've seen ICVR, for Instrument Cluster Voltage Regulator, used as well as IVR, just leaving out the Cluster. Ford called it an ICVR so that's what I tend to use.

But, it is used in place of the ICVR. See where it plugs in? Right where the ICVR would have.

 

In place of the old ICVR is just a dummy piece I made from a small block of Delrin and aluminum. I figured this would be the easiest way to make the connections. The regulator itself is just stuck where you see it with a small piece of 3M trim tape. It appears to work just fine, though I plan to check the accuracy with resistors at some point in time. 10, 22, and 73 Ohm as I recall...I also obtained a factory tachometer for it. I was very pleased it worked as well.

 

I think the actual value was 72 ohms, but I couldn't find that and went with a 75. However, in reality it is the 10 ohm that is needed. That gives you full scale, which I believe is the point to which we should calibrate. The other two resistors are just a check to see if the gauge itself is working properly. But, if it isn't there isn't much to do but live with it or replace it as any change in the voltage changes full scale.

 

Would a regulator like this work for this project?

 

It should work Fine. However, its open design won't be as convenient to mount as the one I used since you will have to protect it somehow.