My 2000 4.0 XLT Ranger has been without working cruise control for several months now. I've checked what appear to be likely related fuses and they're all good. I *DID* have a recent problem with my brake lights but that's been fixed. (The shop that replaced my rear leaf spring hanger brackets pinched a hot wire between the brackets and the frame which eventually shorted. Wire and fuse were replaced.)

A few years back, Ford had a recall related to the Cruise Controls causing fires. I had the recall service performed on this truck. In a nutshell: The switch to disengage cruise when braking is attached to the master brake cylinder, and a leak in the switches diaphragm allows brake fluid into the switch causing an electrical short, causing the wires to heat up, and in some cases causing a fire. Ford, instead of switching to a different switch design (like maybe a mechanical switch on the pedal?) put a fuseable link in the hot wire from the potentially leaky switch.

Well, the truck now has over 150K miles on the factory brake cylinder/cruise control switch. I'm suspecting that my switch finally leaked, shorted and blew the fuseable link. Has anyone here experienced this? Would Ford fix it? (They should, considering the lame fix for a lame design flaw.)

 

Are you also having any problems with the speed-o, ABS, or Tranny shifting??? If so, look to the rear differential mounted ABS speed sensor, as all those things also use its PID output to the computer to do their thing, so if its output is corrupt, they may also act out. It is a common problem part, but is easy & inexpensive to replace if you think it has a problem.

I too had the recall done on my 99 Ranger & Ford Doesnt/Won't replace the switch if its insulator isn't cracked, or it doesn't show signs of weeping/leaking brake fluid. I opted/payed to have the Dealer replace my switch anyway when he did the recall to install the fuseable link wiring harness, as the switch insulator material was the root cause of the problem & recall.
They only charged me for the switch, no labor to install it, or top off & bleed the brake master cyl. We can submit our switch reciept to Ford for reimbursement consideration if we wish.

For anyone reading this, the problem switch had a Rust/Red color insulator on the end where the wire connects & the replacement switch had a Black colored insulator, so in that way you can know if the switch has been replaced if you've had the recall done, or want to replace your switch.

Lots of Ford vehicles have the rust/red colored switch, my 94 Taurus has one, but hasn't been recalled yet, as its way down low on the recall list because there aren't many still on the road.

We can buy the switch & replace it ourselves, if our vehicle isn't on the recall list & we have the rust/red color insulator switch, or we don't want to have the recall wiring harness monstrosity with the multiple inline fuses installed. Seeing as how that wire is unfused, but always hot, even if the ignition is turned off, its probably a good idea to have the TSB done, so we get some fuse protection in case of wire damage too!!!!

SO, probe your wire at the brake master cyl switch, with a test light or multimeter, to a good unpainted, non rusted ground, to make sure its inline fuse isn't blown. You should have B+ to a good ground at the master cyl switch, even if the ignition switch is off.

Some thoughts for consideration, let us know what you find.

 

Thanks for responding PawPaw.

No problems with ABS/trans/speedometer. I actually replaced the ABS sensor about a year or so ago.

I'm assuming that when I had the recall work done, they didn't replace the switch on my master cylinder. I certainly didn't think to ask them to do it (assuming again that I'd have to pay an arm and leg). I'll check the color of the switch. If it's the old one, I'll replace it no matter what. I came across a post somewhere saying you could buy it from Ford for about $11.

I had forgotten that part of the problem which caused the recall was that the wire to the switch was hot all the time, even with the engine off and truck sitting idle. That certainly makes checking the inline fuse easy. (Duh.) I'll look at it tonight when I get home.

 

OK, I just checked it. It's definitely the original switch. The first thing I noticed when pulling the connector was the liquid inside the plug. Its leaking. I went ahead and put the volt meter on it, and I get a solid 12.7 volts between one terminal (can't remember now whether it was the yellow or green) and the battery neg post. I also get about 0.5 volt between the other terminal and ground. So the fuse hasn't blown.

Either way, I know the switch needs replacing. But now I'm not sure if I need to replace the harness as well.

 

It occurred to me that with the switch leaking and the fuse intact, it's gonna start heating up. I just ran outside and disconnected it. Why trust the fuse?

 

I swapped out the switch and harness on my lunch break. About $27, and maybe 15 minutes later, my cruise control works.

There are a couple things I'm curious about, though. I just threaded the new switch into the hole in the master cylinder and gently tightened it with a long 7/8" wrench. Should there be some kind of pipe dope or teflon tape on the threads? Also, While researching this on the web, I think I read someone's post claiming they bled the master cylinder after replacing the switch. Not sure how that works considering how this fitting is mounted. Is that necessary? (My brakes feel fine.)

 

Good feedback & to hear you got the cruise control working. Was probably a good idea to replace that danged switch.

If the brakes feel ok & the cruise control is working ok, leave it alone.