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Ford has recalled something like one million cars, SUVs and trucks according to CNN based on this switch. This switch or one similar was used on 1993-2003 F-series trucks.
Are you familiar with this issue?
Does CNN have the story correct?
Should we be "hounding" Ford to address our trucks?
Per CNN:
The switch is located under the hood of the vehicle and is attached to the brake master cylinder on one end and wired to the cruise control on the other.
On most of its models, Ford designed the switch to be powered -- or "hot" -- at all times, even when the vehicle is off and the key is removed from the ignition.
Inside the switch, a thin film barrier separates brake fluid from the switch's electrical components. Investigators say fires can occur when the film cracks and brake fluid from the master cylinder seeps into the electrical side of the switch.
I sent a letter to Ford about that and they responded, "Your vehicle isnot included in the recall or Customer Service action" DUH!!!!! Thats what I am writing you about!!
So I replied back telling them that since they want to try and side step the question as to why they haven't included the other years of problem vehicles that I will have my attorney contact them when my house burns down, unless they want to be straight about it or at least tell me what I need to fix it. I paid to have cruise in my truck, not to disconnect and not have it work. Lets see what happens next.
This has been going on for a while now. I've had my cruise disconected on my '99 for a while, as I don't use it much anyway (my foot get's me better mileage). It hasn't made economic sense for them to issue the recalls on the other models (it's only the 00's and 01 screws as far as f150's go) even though they are the same or VERY similar switch.
If you blow the fuse/cruise stops working, don't replace it, unplug the switch (or better yet do it anyway) and call ford. Also something about if it won't go into park. I heard rumor the new one's aren't much better, but not sure on that.
FOR THOSE WISHING TO DICONNECT IT: it's the red round switch located at the front of the master cylinder.
Edit: if you wan't to just buy the updated switch yourself, I was just quoted ~$16 from the local dealership. Has them in stock and says they are definately the updated version (same as what the recalled switches are replaced with). Hang onto your receipt and you can probably get a refund if ford ever issues it for your truck.
I haven't heard of anything to do with the harness, but it's possible that's something else. I'm going to pick one up tomorrow, I'll ask the service manager.
What does the jumper harness do? Does the new switch have a different type/style of connector as compared to the original switch, requiring a jumper to convert old harness to new switch?