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Well finally got all my parts on the way for my oil cooler replacement... Tousely shipped them 2nd day air last night, so I should have them Wednesday or Thursday. We'll start tearing down this engine this afternoon. Haven't driven the truck in a couple weeks and I'm excited to be getting it back!
I'll be doing a COMPLETE documentation of this project via camera and will be posting the pics in an online album somewhere for you guys... I'll post a link when I'm done. I found plenty of videos on doing this, and I even found some photographed projects, but nothing complete... for those of us who don't have internet capable of streaming the video, I'm hoping this photo album will be helpful.
I'll also be cutting open my old oil cooler to take a look inside and see what I've got. Thanks for all the advice and words of encouragement you guys have given me... I never would have tackled anything more complicated than replacing a battery or an alternator before!
A couple quick questions... To date I've used the Ford Gold Premium. While I've got everything torn apart and drained, would it be wise to go ahead and switch to the ELC-1 non-silicate? Also, just want to confirm that I should replace my oil with 5W-40 for the cold climate I'm in here. I know I need to do a complete flush of my system BEFORE I replace the cooler--should I do the flush with the VC-9 and just leave it with water in it and drain that out for the parts replacement, or should I flush it all the way through to the new coolant and then replace that coolant when I get done?
Well, as soon as I flush I'm gonna drain it and tear it apart, so it would actually be empty for a few days... Would there be enough residual to cause corrosion? And if I do the full flush, ending with coolant, can I drain that coolant and reuse it, or do I need to buy two complete fills worth of coolant?
Maybe High Binder can tell us what exactly phosphonic acids do to metal and the coolant hoses, but since the VC-9 directions say don't leave it in for more than 3 hours I would flush it to water at least. I guess you could mix it back to 50-50 then drain it out and reuse, I just left water in the last one I did but it was hours, not days.
When you add the oil back in, leave the standpipe out and pour it down the middle hole. It'll start on the first crank
You certainly MUST flush prior to replacing the oil cooler. I wouldn't get too hung up with worrying about the rust if you complete the repair in short order. If you're really concerned do a VC-9 flush after as well. Assuming that you flushed properly the first time you should be just fine.
just a reminder do not ever attempt to flush an engine with a leasking oil cooler or egr cooler. if you have intermix of oil all you will do is spread it aroundand casue more harm, if the egr cooler is failed you can hydrolock it.
Thanks, guys! Cheezit, this has the original '03 EGR Cooler and there are no signs it has failed... also no signs that the oil cooler itself has failed YET... I thought it had (coolant looked really dark compared to what I was used to). I assumed since my deltas had climbed over 40 that day, that it had finally failed. Turned out my shop had put the wrong coolant (red) in when they flushed it for me. No oil in it at all!
Thanks, guys! Cheezit, this has the original '03 EGR Cooler and there are no signs it has failed... also no signs that the oil cooler itself has failed YET... I thought it had (coolant looked really dark compared to what I was used to). I assumed since my deltas had climbed over 40 that day, that it had finally failed. Turned out my shop had put the wrong coolant (red) in when they flushed it for me. No oil in it at all!
i was under the impression that the red color was an elc type coolant. i know cat is red. anyone else?