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1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Fat Fendered and Classic Ford Trucks

Leaf Springs

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Old Oct 15, 2012 | 08:40 PM
  #1  
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bigdaddylove
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Leaf Springs

Hi,

I have searched and poked around the forum for answers to a couple of questions.

1. I want the ride to be softer and assume I can achieve that by removing a couple of springs, right? Does it really make that much of a difference?

2. Are new springs softer than the original? In other words, will 7 original springs be as soft as 7 aftermarket springs?

All work would be completed by a spring shop.

Thanks!
BDL
 
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Old Oct 15, 2012 | 11:01 PM
  #2  
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ImSoQuazy
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From: Visalia
Hello BDL,

This is an article, that although may seem dated, is still informative. I know I'm not contributing directly to your question, but I hope this helps - a little. But I will let you know as soon as I undertake this task. I plan on removing a few or 3 leaves from the rear as well as from the front. Stay tuned...
Click the link below.
1948 through 1960 Ford F-1 and F-100 Rear Axle (differential) Swaps .: Articles

Paul
<!-- / message --><!-- sig -->
 
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Old Oct 16, 2012 | 06:38 AM
  #3  
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I haven't driven my truck yet so I can't say what the original ride was like. I had one broken leaf out of the passenger side pack (14 total), so I took the corresponding one out of the drivers side. I cleaned them up, chamfered the top edge on the ends and added teflon liners between each leaf. By the way, you need longer u-bolts if you add the liners. My local spring shop told me if I didn't like the ride they could remake the springs using my original main leaf and give me the same carrying capacity out of only 7 or 8 leaves. that would give it more flex and actually require a shock.
I'm waiting for the intial drive to decide.
Mike
 
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Old Oct 16, 2012 | 07:15 AM
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I don't think you would notice the difference unless the aftermarket springs had the teflon buttons. Removing a couple of leaves would certainly soften the ride some and even more if you added the teflon liner and ground the ends so they don't dig into each other as Mike suggested....
 
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Old Oct 16, 2012 | 05:48 PM
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I am at the same stage trying to figure out if i want to remove some leaf springs. i have the back disconnected from the shackle, what is the proper procedure for taking them apart. do you start with the center bolt or the clamps. sorry for piggybacking off your thread, i am also looking for a softer ride and lowering the rear. also where do you exactly grind the ends
 
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Old Oct 16, 2012 | 06:08 PM
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I always remove the leaf clamps first, then put a good C-clamp either side of the center bolt. Then unscrew the center bolt or saw or torch it off, whatever it takes. Then slowly release the C-clamps, do your stuff, stack the redone leaves onto a new center bolt (they usually come long, which helps) Tighten the C-clamps and snug down the center bolt, then saw off the leftover length. I would just chamfer the last 1/8th to 1/4" of each leaf. I normally am doing all this to add a few leaves ......
 
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Old Oct 16, 2012 | 06:26 PM
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So you are grinding the end of the leaf that touches the next one?
 
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Old Oct 16, 2012 | 06:43 PM
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Yes, grind the upper edges around the angled portion of each leaf.
 
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Old Oct 16, 2012 | 06:45 PM
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Originally Posted by bigdaddylove
Hi,

I have searched and poked around the forum for answers to a couple of questions.

1. I want the ride to be softer and assume I can achieve that by removing a couple of springs, right? Does it really make that much of a difference?

2. Are new springs softer than the original? In other words, will 7 original springs be as soft as 7 aftermarket springs?

All work would be completed by a spring shop.

Thanks!
BDL
I can't answer the second question but I can offer insight on the first. I had a buddy who took leafs from his front and back. Looks-wise, it lowered the truck an inch or so, not super noticable by just looking but you could tell if you looked hard. As far as the ride goes, I could definitely tell a difference. He did both front and back as I said, I am seriously just thinking of doing the back. Not so much for the softer ride but a cheap way to eat up some of the wheel well gap. I dont know if I will notice too much of difference by just doing the rears anyway.
 
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Old Oct 16, 2012 | 09:57 PM
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I'm pretty convinced this is the route I was go; remove very other spring (as safety dictates), have the ends ground and use the Teflon.

I don't mind an old truck driving like an old truck, I just wanna back it off a tad and make it a bit more pleasurable.
 
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Old Oct 16, 2012 | 10:39 PM
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If you're looking for a shop to do this, try A1 Spring Service in Oakland. I had them re-arch and replace a few broken leafs in the rear springs on my 52. I removed and brought the springs to them. However, I believe that they can also remove and install the springs for you. They charged me $330.
 
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Old Oct 16, 2012 | 10:57 PM
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Originally Posted by 51PanelMan
If you're looking for a shop to do this, try A1 Spring Service in Oakland. I had them re-arch and replace a few broken leafs in the rear springs on my 52. I removed and brought the springs to them. However, I believe that they can also remove and install the springs for you. They charged me $330.
Thanks for the referral. I was think of trying them. I'll have to bring the truck to them since I can't pull them out.

Wonder what my job'll run...
 
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Old Oct 16, 2012 | 10:59 PM
  #13  
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Since the springs will be pulled, I recommend getting all new bushings, pins, bolts, etc. A spring hardware kit can be purchased that will have everything needed. That's what I did when I worked on the rear springs.

Find out what it'll cost. If it's too much and cheaper to bring your springs in, drive the truck to my house and we can have another wrenchin' party. We can leave the truck on jack stands in my driveway until the springs come back (probably about a week turn around time).
 
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Old Oct 17, 2012 | 03:19 PM
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Originally Posted by 51PanelMan
Since the springs will be pulled, I recommend getting all new bushings, pins, bolts, etc. A spring hardware kit can be purchased that will have everything needed. That's what I did when I worked on the rear springs.

Find out what it'll cost. If it's too much and cheaper to bring your springs in, drive the truck to my house and we can have another wrenchin' party. We can leave the truck on jack stands in my driveway until the springs come back (probably about a week turn around time).
Cool! Thanks 51PM. Right now, I'm in the planning stages of what I'd like to do now that she's up and running. I'd like to do it sometime this winter, but we'll see.

It would be a good excuse to see that Airflow, too.

I think I need to go for a drive right now for addition assessment
 
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