Carb Help on '84
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Carb Help on '84
Hey guys, I need a hand here.
I purchased a truck from someone on this website about 2 weeks ago. I didn't know the seller was a member here, but I pictures of it here after buying it. So either way, the truck has after-market headers, and the electric choke isn't plugged into anything. I got a manual choke from the parts store and just wanted some thoughts before I put it in. Is there some way I could jumper the wire from the choke switch? I'm not very experienced with carbs, and this is my first pick-up truck, so I'm kinda just taking shots in the dark with my knowledge and lots of internet research. Any help or even general comments would be greatly appreciated. Seriously, GREATLY appreciated. I'm feeling a little in-over-my-head with the amount of non-factory parts on this truck and I'm only becoming happier that I didn't pay much for it. Anything to help me sleep tonight would be incredibly appreciated.
Thanks.
I purchased a truck from someone on this website about 2 weeks ago. I didn't know the seller was a member here, but I pictures of it here after buying it. So either way, the truck has after-market headers, and the electric choke isn't plugged into anything. I got a manual choke from the parts store and just wanted some thoughts before I put it in. Is there some way I could jumper the wire from the choke switch? I'm not very experienced with carbs, and this is my first pick-up truck, so I'm kinda just taking shots in the dark with my knowledge and lots of internet research. Any help or even general comments would be greatly appreciated. Seriously, GREATLY appreciated. I'm feeling a little in-over-my-head with the amount of non-factory parts on this truck and I'm only becoming happier that I didn't pay much for it. Anything to help me sleep tonight would be incredibly appreciated.
Thanks.
Lead Driver
Joined: Jul 2009
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From: Sheffield, AL
Welcome to the forum, gotatrucksomeonehere! [whew, what a name!] 
The choke heater wire is fed from the back of the alternator. There should be a factory wire in the area of the carburetor. Do you still have the 1 barrel Carter carb? 1984 had what is referred to as the feedback carburetor [computer controlled].
The choke heater wire is fed from the back of the alternator. There should be a factory wire in the area of the carburetor. Do you still have the 1 barrel Carter carb? 1984 had what is referred to as the feedback carburetor [computer controlled].
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Thanks for the warm welcome, the name was a bit spur of the moment!
I found a wire that matched the fitting on the car end from the alternator, but it had something plugged into it and cut off, and it wasn't the same plastic housing on the choke. But they did fit! I tried turning the truck it on with the two plugged into eachother, but It didn't do anything.
However, the choke plate seems to be jammed open. I don't know how easy it should be to try and move the thing, but even when I took apart the bi-metal spring and essentially had it disconnected, it wouldn't move AT ALL. I got some carb cleaner and I just don't want to bother with it if I'm just mistaken.
Thanks tremendously for you help!
I found a wire that matched the fitting on the car end from the alternator, but it had something plugged into it and cut off, and it wasn't the same plastic housing on the choke. But they did fit! I tried turning the truck it on with the two plugged into eachother, but It didn't do anything.
However, the choke plate seems to be jammed open. I don't know how easy it should be to try and move the thing, but even when I took apart the bi-metal spring and essentially had it disconnected, it wouldn't move AT ALL. I got some carb cleaner and I just don't want to bother with it if I'm just mistaken.
Thanks tremendously for you help!
Lead Driver
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 6,477
Likes: 19
From: Sheffield, AL
The wire which is connected to the alternator only supplies current to the choke while the engine is running. This is so the choke will not begin to come off prematurely.
As AbandonedBronco said, check the linkage.
With the choke plate stuck fully open, the truck might start okay during warm weather, but will not start well when it is cool/cold.
As AbandonedBronco said, check the linkage.
With the choke plate stuck fully open, the truck might start okay during warm weather, but will not start well when it is cool/cold.
Moderator
Joined: Dec 2007
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From: Boise, Idaho
Carb cleaner's really good stuff and can ungum some stuck parts. I usually find the cheapest stuff works just as good, so I get the biggest, least expensive can(s) I can. The compressed stuff with the air tube works wonders.
Also great for spraying around gaskets while its' running. If it sputters, or smooths out oddly, you know there's a vacuum leak.
Also great for spraying around gaskets while its' running. If it sputters, or smooths out oddly, you know there's a vacuum leak.
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I did a fair bit of pulling gasket maker out of vacuum lines and putting proper caps on.
Also, the breather on the valve cover is just a hose fed into the side of the air cleaner, not attached by anything. I can't see this being factory....?
Also, the breather on the valve cover is just a hose fed into the side of the air cleaner, not attached by anything. I can't see this being factory....?
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Joined: Dec 2007
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From: Boise, Idaho
The breather should be a hose that attaches to the side of the air cleaner and then attaches to the oil cap (or a separate breather cap on some models). If it just goes to atmosphere, then you're sucking dust into your oil.
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Breather is attached at both ends, it just isn't secured by anything at the air cleaner. Its just plugged into the side. I took it all apart again, tried to jimmy the choke but it was solid. Gave it a nice little bath of carb cleaner and literally watched the residue build up fall off. I gave it an even healthier dose and left it to dry, I'll be checking up on it soon.
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From: Boise, Idaho
The original connection for the breather on the side of the air cleaner was never very good.
There's a hole in the side of the air filter housing. The breather filter goes inside and part of it sticks out the hole. Then, you put the breather hose on it and use a little metal clip to secure it together. Generally, the hose end of the breather filter was never long enough so it's always difficult to get the clip to stay on.
I *think* new breather filters come with new clips.
Hopefully that cleans up your movement issue. If not, it still sounds like something's binding. It should move freely.
There's a hole in the side of the air filter housing. The breather filter goes inside and part of it sticks out the hole. Then, you put the breather hose on it and use a little metal clip to secure it together. Generally, the hose end of the breather filter was never long enough so it's always difficult to get the clip to stay on.
I *think* new breather filters come with new clips.
Hopefully that cleans up your movement issue. If not, it still sounds like something's binding. It should move freely.
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Hey again bronco, with the spring assembly taken apart andmaking sure nothing is blocking the arm, (plus quite a few doses of Carb clean) the thing is still hard as a rock. Any suggestions short of taking the whole damn Carb off and buying a rebuild kit?
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Joined: Dec 2007
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From: Boise, Idaho
Honestly, there's nothing in a rebuild kit that's going to free up your linkage. If it's not moving now, it won't be moving after the rebuild. The kits are mostly gaskets and such.
You'll need to figure out why it won't move. If it's really that solid, something is badly binding or hung up. Have you removed the black choke housing to see if the spring inside is all rusted?
Otherwise, I'd pull the carb off so you can get a better look at it. It's difficult to see on the 1bbl because all the linkage is towards the firewall.
You'll need to figure out why it won't move. If it's really that solid, something is badly binding or hung up. Have you removed the black choke housing to see if the spring inside is all rusted?
Otherwise, I'd pull the carb off so you can get a better look at it. It's difficult to see on the 1bbl because all the linkage is towards the firewall.
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Oh yeah I know arebuild kit wont solve my issues but Ill have to pick one up if I want to take the thing off so it'll be easier to get to. I dont trust the gaskets on it right now to survive and im just trying to avoid that. I've popped off the thermostatic spring and it was in fine condition. Nothing is really corroded except the shaft which makes me think its that. I've taken a damn hard look to see if any of the linkages were jammed up but it just doesn't appear so. Also note, there is NO play even when directly pushing the butterfly. Good news though sort of, after I switchedfrom Carb clean
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Oh yeah I know arebuild kit wont solve my issues but Ill have to pick one up if I want to take the thing off so it'll be easier to get to. I dont trust the gaskets on it right now to survive and im just trying to avoid that. I've popped off the thermostatic spring and it was in fine condition. Nothing is really corroded except the shaft which makes me think its that. I've taken a damn hard look to see if any of the linkages were jammed up but it just doesn't appear so. Also note, there is NO play even when directly pushing the butterfly. Good news though sort of, after I switched from Carb clean to penetrating oil I did get about 1 nanometer of play