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Installing 3" lift blocks in the rear for a 1977 F150. Does it matter if the lift blocks are on top of the existing factory block or should the lift block go on the axle, then the factory block, then the spring? The latter idea seems to make the most sense because the factory block has 2 eyelets on the outer side that the new U-bolts would go thru and I would think that you want that close to the top. Figured I better ask before I do!
If you want to do it right, you won't stack the blocks! I mean, unless you've done your last will and testament. Stacking blocks is one of the cardinal sins of truck building, along with using blocks to lift the front-end. Good luck with whatever you do.
This might be a stupid question, but if stacking blocks is the wrong thing to do, why does the manufacturer (Rough Country) sell the kit that way? I understand your comments, but I always figured that applied to larger lifts. The blocks are actually 3' for the rear and the front coils were 4". I could have done the rear spring for the lift, but the truck is pretty much being used as a winter warrior so the wife can put the corvette away.
The manufacturers sell them like that because it's cheaper. This is where you need to do your homework and ask the important questions like, "Does this lift kit require me to stack a block with the factory lift block?" Quite often these companies are pretty good about customer service. If you call them up and request 4" blocks for the rear to match your 4" coils for the front and express your dissapointment in them for expecting you to risk your life by stacking blocks, they'll probably overnight you a new set! Customer satisfaction is #1, remind them of that. YOU are their advertisement. Good luck.
It's quite common to stack blocks in the rear. The problem is with increased axle wrap. The 6 inches of blocks will put more leverage on your rear springs when you accelerate.
Just make sure you tighten the u-bolts periodically.
If they were to send you a 4" block and you put just that in place of your stock block your truck would sit up 2" in the front since you have a 3" block to stack on your stock 3" block for a total of 6".
Also the stock blocks have the pads for the bump stops to hit on so it depends on how much you want to limit wheel travel which you put on top.
rrmike: Thanks for the vote of confidence on the blocks. I started to panic alittle. I did measure things when I got home and between the factory block (3") and the new lift (3") there is a total of 6" worth of block. Would it be any better to weld the 2 blocks together or is it the entire block package combined with the spring and axle that can be an issue is not done correctly? My original question did go back to does it matter which block is on top? It looks to me that the new one is closest to the axle then the factory block, then the spring.
Instead of stacking blocks go to sky-manufacturing.com and get some shackle reversals. If you even think about thrashing your truck in the slightest stacking blocks is a no no.
Originally posted by JFR3
Would it be any better to weld the 2 blocks together or is it the entire block package combined with the spring and axle that can be an issue is not done correctly?
you probably won't be able to weld the blocks together. 99% of the time they are cast and can't take a good secure weld. If anything else make you own blocks to the lift you need using 4" solid steel stock. then is you like you can weld these to the spring pads on the axle. This way with the u-bolts you will a hard time breaking or dislodging the block by accident. Just an idea!!!
Don't bother welding them. Just keep the u-bolts real tight and they won't go anywhere.
Also the stock blocks have the pads for the bump stops to hit on so it depends on how much you want to limit wheel travel which you put on top.
This is what I originally posted about which to put on top. If you have small tires and want a lot of suspension travel then put the stockers on bottom. If you want to limit wheel up travel put the stocker with the bump stop pad on top and it will hit sooner and limit wheel travel.
Unless you do hard wheelin' It don't really matter anyway.
Thanks to all for your suggestions and feedback. The trucks general use is for the winter and a run to the store for some lumber and stuff, maybe throw the 192lb great dane in to go for a ride. I think the blocks will do for that application, but I did learn that anything serious for four wheeling is better off with springs that add the lift.
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