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would 24 lb injectors work with this setup or would i be better off sticking with the stock 18 lb?
You will need a custom tune to get the 24 lb. injectors to work properly the stock 19 lb. injectors are good for ~300 FWHP. In order to fully realize the return on your investment a custom tune would be highly suggested. Your truck is running Speed Density engine control, you are limited in what you can do performance wise especially if you plan on using a factory tune with performance parts.
Mass Airflow (MAF) is more forgiving, but it is not the magic elixir everyone touts it to be. Regardless, if you stick with SD or convert to MAF budget for a custom tune or a tuner.
ok i think i have the parts list of everything i want, id appreciate it if you guys would tell me what ya think of it and if it give me a good power gain..
block will be bored 60 over with sealed power rebuild kit from summit
will this provide a good power gain? and will i be able to use stock push rods with the gt40ps or will i need different? and i do plan on regearing to 4:10s
looks like a good list! Not sure on specific numbers, but should be lots healthier. Just make sure and double check, then triple check that all the oil gallys are clean and clear. Don't just trust the shop saying they cleaned the block. Check for yourself. I learned the hard way and toasted a freshly rebuild motor after they told me they "cleaned" the block after machining..
That cam is not SD EFI friendly you need something milder, and you need 4.56 gears now not later on.. engine mods won't help if it's got to turn 33" mud tires with 3.08 gears.
oh ok.. well then ill go with the comp 35-512-8... id like a cam that would give me a somewhat lopey idle.. and i found an f250 that has 4:10s under it and ill probly go with that
Why bore it .060 over? That's getting to the max of those bores. If it hasn't been rebuilt before I'd only take it .020-.030 that way down the road if something happens you can take it another .020-.030
yea ik i dont like it either.. but its already been bored 40 over and it needs to be bored again. has scratching on two cylinders, other holes look fine can still see the crosshatch
id like a cam that would give me a somewhat lopey idle..
Unfortunately a lopey idle means a low and turbulent vacuum signal and a strong/steady vacuum is the prime requirement for an EFI system based on intake manifold vacuum like you have.
The 302 is a great motor but it's lighter weight and lower deck height lends itself to a smaller vehicle where weight is a concern and torque isn't as usable
the 351, has a taller deck height, a stouter block and they made scads of them.
My suggestion would be to snag a dead 351 (prob free) get it remachined. Grab a cast 393 crank from summit (300 bucks ish) some mustang 302 pistons i believe in the early and mid nineties they had forged pistons You can used the original 351 rods and with some new rings and bearings you have a yourself a rebuilt pretty cheap rotating assembly
As for heads and cam I know dart makes some cheap and cheerful iron heads pre assembled for not too much .I would grab some off brand lifters and a mild cam, port the intake lightly add some larger injectors.
The advantage of this is that you won't have any downtime for you truck except for the actual swap. and you can still sell your 302 when all the smoke clears. Also in my experience this set up (depending on how you build it) will generate about as much grunt as the E4OD will tollerate