Advice: Rusty lower doors
Thread Starter
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Tuned
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 406
Likes: 2
From: South Carolina
Advice: Rusty lower doors
Hello all,
I'm in the middle of a truck rebuild and just started sanding the doors down today. I knew the doors had some small rusty holes on the lower outsides and I planned on cutting those sections out and welding in some patches. There's only one or two such holes on the outsides.
While I was working on the lower insides I saw a lot of rust through just above the overlap joint. I'd like some recommendations on fixing this. I want to do it right but I'm terrified of buying a lower section, cutting my existing lower and welding a new one on. I'll be the guy that can't close his doors cause they're too long or they'll look horrible and be too short. If that's what I need to do though I'll try it.
If there are other suggestions please let me know.
Here's what the doors look like.
I'm in the middle of a truck rebuild and just started sanding the doors down today. I knew the doors had some small rusty holes on the lower outsides and I planned on cutting those sections out and welding in some patches. There's only one or two such holes on the outsides.
While I was working on the lower insides I saw a lot of rust through just above the overlap joint. I'd like some recommendations on fixing this. I want to do it right but I'm terrified of buying a lower section, cutting my existing lower and welding a new one on. I'll be the guy that can't close his doors cause they're too long or they'll look horrible and be too short. If that's what I need to do though I'll try it.
If there are other suggestions please let me know.
Here's what the doors look like.
Senior User
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 195
Likes: 0
From: Driftwood Pa & Duncan OK
Personally, I would just replace the whole door because I hate having to redo things down the road. But this may not be the option you want (from my experience however, the door replacement panels run pretty close to the same price as a new door, close enough in my opinion to validate the cost difference).
But, the easiest way it line up the panel on the truck (with the door properly aligned) and mark the area on the door, then make your actual cut below that that mark by a few inches (to give yourself room for mistakes). Before this step you can measure different areas for future reference, the amount and locations of these areas is up to you, but I usually pick about four or five (two vertical, two horizontal and one diagonally if I feel the need)
After repeatedly checking these marks to make sure they are accurate you can then cut the rusty panel off.
After this you can trim the panel to fit if needed (I like using a grinder so I can remove small areas at a time while repeatedly checking the fit).
Finally after all this you can tack it in place and check the fit, most of this is based on personal judgement of course, but you can also measure to check for minute differences to get it -really- close (checking a square area of the door and comparing the two). More often than not though, I seem to notice on older vehicles the body lines are rarely square (like drivers side vs passenger side).
When your happy with the look and fit you can finish up your spot welding until its time to grind as per usual.
Its alot of work just to be sure, but if you have the time, it can be worth the effort. I would only normally only go through this hassle if it was absolutely necessary
EDIT: By the way, you really need to make sure the majority of the problem areas and -then- some is removed while cutting, otherwise it will most likely rust out again (its even possible after the rusted areas are treated with "rust neutralizer).
But, the easiest way it line up the panel on the truck (with the door properly aligned) and mark the area on the door, then make your actual cut below that that mark by a few inches (to give yourself room for mistakes). Before this step you can measure different areas for future reference, the amount and locations of these areas is up to you, but I usually pick about four or five (two vertical, two horizontal and one diagonally if I feel the need)
After repeatedly checking these marks to make sure they are accurate you can then cut the rusty panel off.
After this you can trim the panel to fit if needed (I like using a grinder so I can remove small areas at a time while repeatedly checking the fit).
Finally after all this you can tack it in place and check the fit, most of this is based on personal judgement of course, but you can also measure to check for minute differences to get it -really- close (checking a square area of the door and comparing the two). More often than not though, I seem to notice on older vehicles the body lines are rarely square (like drivers side vs passenger side).
When your happy with the look and fit you can finish up your spot welding until its time to grind as per usual.
Its alot of work just to be sure, but if you have the time, it can be worth the effort. I would only normally only go through this hassle if it was absolutely necessary
EDIT: By the way, you really need to make sure the majority of the problem areas and -then- some is removed while cutting, otherwise it will most likely rust out again (its even possible after the rusted areas are treated with "rust neutralizer).
Thread Starter
|
Tuned
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 406
Likes: 2
From: South Carolina
Personally, I would just replace the whole door because I hate having to redo things down the road. But this may not be the option you want (from my experience however, the door replacement panels run pretty close to the same price as a new door, close enough in my opinion to validate the cost difference).
But, the easiest way it line up the panel on the truck (with the door properly aligned) and mark the area on the door, then make your actual cut below that that mark by a few inches (to give yourself room for mistakes). Before this step you can measure different areas for future reference, the amount and locations of these areas is up to you, but I usually pick about four or five (two vertical, two horizontal and one diagonally if I feel the need)
After repeatedly checking these marks to make sure they are accurate you can then cut the rusty panel off.
After this you can trim the panel to fit if needed (I like using a grinder so I can remove small areas at a time while repeatedly checking the fit).
Finally after all this you can tack it in place and check the fit, most of this is based on personal judgement of course, but you can also measure to check for minute differences to get it -really- close (checking a square area of the door and comparing the two). More often than not though, I seem to notice on older vehicles the body lines are rarely square (like drivers side vs passenger side).
When your happy with the look and fit you can finish up your spot welding until its time to grind as per usual.
Its alot of work just to be sure, but if you have the time, it can be worth the effort. I would only normally only go through this hassle if it was absolutely necessary
EDIT: By the way, you really need to make sure the majority of the problem areas and -then- some is removed while cutting, otherwise it will most likely rust out again (its even possible after the rusted areas are treated with "rust neutralizer).
But, the easiest way it line up the panel on the truck (with the door properly aligned) and mark the area on the door, then make your actual cut below that that mark by a few inches (to give yourself room for mistakes). Before this step you can measure different areas for future reference, the amount and locations of these areas is up to you, but I usually pick about four or five (two vertical, two horizontal and one diagonally if I feel the need)
After repeatedly checking these marks to make sure they are accurate you can then cut the rusty panel off.
After this you can trim the panel to fit if needed (I like using a grinder so I can remove small areas at a time while repeatedly checking the fit).
Finally after all this you can tack it in place and check the fit, most of this is based on personal judgement of course, but you can also measure to check for minute differences to get it -really- close (checking a square area of the door and comparing the two). More often than not though, I seem to notice on older vehicles the body lines are rarely square (like drivers side vs passenger side).
When your happy with the look and fit you can finish up your spot welding until its time to grind as per usual.
Its alot of work just to be sure, but if you have the time, it can be worth the effort. I would only normally only go through this hassle if it was absolutely necessary
EDIT: By the way, you really need to make sure the majority of the problem areas and -then- some is removed while cutting, otherwise it will most likely rust out again (its even possible after the rusted areas are treated with "rust neutralizer).
Thank you very much for the detailed post. I'm still contemplating between the repair route or the replacement door. Thanks to Maul Maul's tip I was able to find some replacement door's for $200 a piece but the repair panels are around $40 for the inners and outers (since I only needed the short repair panels). I'm leaning towards the repair panels now because I think it would be fun and a good learning project but I understand that once I mess them up (and I probably will) I will go buy two replacement doors from the salvage yard.
Senior User
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 195
Likes: 0
From: Driftwood Pa & Duncan OK
Your very welcome, as a fabricator/bodyman it seems I get carried away anytime I reply to any of the posts like this :P.
I'm happy to you that you are considering both routes, and yea, even if it wants me to bang my head against the wall at times, I personally find this sort of work really enjoyable!
Good luck and remember to have fun!
RoD
I'm happy to you that you are considering both routes, and yea, even if it wants me to bang my head against the wall at times, I personally find this sort of work really enjoyable!
Good luck and remember to have fun!
RoD
Cargo Master
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 3,365
Likes: 12
From: NW Indiana
I bought my doors for $40 each complete from my local JY.
This is one of those jobs that seems more intimidating than it is. If your trying the panels then measure a bunch... think a bit... and do it!!!!
I don't know how many times I made it "too big of a deal" during my project .
I'm no expert bodyman by far but I'm no longer afraid of screwing up bodywork. I think the making it straight is the art....that's the part I'm not so good at.
This is one of those jobs that seems more intimidating than it is. If your trying the panels then measure a bunch... think a bit... and do it!!!!
I don't know how many times I made it "too big of a deal" during my project .
I'm no expert bodyman by far but I'm no longer afraid of screwing up bodywork. I think the making it straight is the art....that's the part I'm not so good at.
Senior User
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 183
Likes: 1
How I would tackle this:
1) Drill out spot welds and "unfold" the portion of the door skin that folds over the inner structure.
2) Cut away more than the rusted part of the lower inner door structure.
3) Sand blast the lower backside (inside of the door skin now exposed after step 2) portion of the door skin. It looks like your door skin is "ok." Repair any areas of the door skin that is too thin or rusted through after sandblasting. Epoxy prime all the sandblasted/repaired areas.
3) Cut a patch panel down to the size of what was cut out in step 2). Butt weld the upper seam of the patch panel to the inner door structure. Fold the door skin back over the sides and lower part of the patched inner door structure and replicate spot welds.
4) Clean the butt weld from step 3) and brush on epoxy primer on the inside (of the door where the window lives) face of the weld. Pour epoxy primer in the seams where the outer door skin folds over the inner structure.
5) Strip, prime, and paint the outside door skin and interior side of the door as your would normally.
Some might suggest weld through primer for the folded over seam/spot welds, but in this case since i could access the seam, i believe submerging it in epoxy primer would provide superior protection.
This should create a door bottom that will outlast much of the rest of the truck.....
1) Drill out spot welds and "unfold" the portion of the door skin that folds over the inner structure.
2) Cut away more than the rusted part of the lower inner door structure.
3) Sand blast the lower backside (inside of the door skin now exposed after step 2) portion of the door skin. It looks like your door skin is "ok." Repair any areas of the door skin that is too thin or rusted through after sandblasting. Epoxy prime all the sandblasted/repaired areas.
3) Cut a patch panel down to the size of what was cut out in step 2). Butt weld the upper seam of the patch panel to the inner door structure. Fold the door skin back over the sides and lower part of the patched inner door structure and replicate spot welds.
4) Clean the butt weld from step 3) and brush on epoxy primer on the inside (of the door where the window lives) face of the weld. Pour epoxy primer in the seams where the outer door skin folds over the inner structure.
5) Strip, prime, and paint the outside door skin and interior side of the door as your would normally.
Some might suggest weld through primer for the folded over seam/spot welds, but in this case since i could access the seam, i believe submerging it in epoxy primer would provide superior protection.
This should create a door bottom that will outlast much of the rest of the truck.....
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