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1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks 1987 - 1996 Ford F-150, F-250, F-350 and larger pickups - including the 1997 heavy-duty F250/F350+ trucks

Need some help guys

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Old Feb 12, 2013 | 02:21 PM
  #46  
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It's HEI like a gm

Grounds itself.

One is the key, needs to be 12 volt, and around 14 guage. use a test light, and find it in your harness that came off the coil. other terminal is for the tack
 
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Old Feb 12, 2013 | 02:28 PM
  #47  
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Thanks Charlie. Now there is no tach in my dash cluster so I dont need to connect that wire unless I decide to install an aftermarket tach, correct?
 
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Old Feb 12, 2013 | 02:38 PM
  #48  
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Yup. it would be the green wire in an aftermarket tack
 
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Old Apr 16, 2013 | 08:24 AM
  #49  
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Quick Update...I finally got the wiring for the Distro connected and changed the battery and Houston we have Ignition!!! Gonne have to time it but at least she fired up. Now on to the fuel pump and new lines...more to come.
 
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Old Apr 16, 2013 | 10:54 AM
  #50  
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That sounds like a move in the right direction. Are you still using the stock 55 lb electric pump?
 
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Old Apr 16, 2013 | 11:43 AM
  #51  
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No we are actually gonna remove the bed and pull the low preasure pump from the sending unit and putting the mechanical pump on the motor. This way there should be no issue with preasure. Hoping to also possibly clean up things since the bed will be off.
 
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Old Apr 16, 2013 | 05:20 PM
  #52  
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Be careful when you remove the hanging unit from the tank.
You will need to re-use the hanging unit, because of the gas guage.

Remove the electric fuel pump, and put a piece of 5/16" brake line in it's place, you can use a piece of rubber fuel line and the 2 gold seal clamps that came with the hanging unit.

On the bottom, you will need a "sock" to keep debri from entering the fuel line, so get one of these
http://www.ebay.com/itm/60-61-62-63-64-FORD-CAR-GAS-TANK-SENDING-UNIT-FUEL-FILTER-SOCK-5-16-/190624194975?pt=Vintage_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2c6216619f&vxp=mtr
It just pushes on the piece of steel brake line you put on the hanging unit. Keep it above the bottom of the tank about 1/4"
 
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Old Apr 17, 2013 | 06:26 AM
  #53  
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Thanks Cahrlie, I had not thought about it sucking up debri. I will def grab one of these.
 
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Old Jun 23, 2013 | 09:25 AM
  #54  
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OK guys I finally took some time and decided to go ahead and drop the tank and make some progress. Well...like anything you always find something else when you start working. I took the old sawzall and cut the first strap bolt off and then went to the other side and got half way through when the battery died. I also started smelling gas. Went back to the other side that I had just cot and noticed a nice wet spot forming and some patch putty under where the strap was. Now my question. I know I can clean this up and put a new patch on the take but in the videos i have watched people do it with an empty tank. My tank still has some gas in it that is currently leaking out...drip, drip drip. do I try to pry off the old putty off and let it drain into a container or go ahead and continue to drop it and then work on it. Really dont have the extra cash for a new tank, which would be ideal. So Im gonna need to patch it for now.
 
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Old Jun 23, 2013 | 07:52 PM
  #55  
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Pm Scott in Pa. he has a good used tank in his garage

Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums - View Profile: Oldtrucknut7077
 
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Old Jun 24, 2013 | 05:49 AM
  #56  
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Thanks Charlie.
 
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Old Oct 5, 2013 | 04:18 PM
  #57  
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Well not that the grass cutting has all but come to a hault I finally have some free time. So I left off with Needing to drop the tank and get the sending unit out to remove the low pressure filer from it. But I found a hole in the tank. So Thanks to Charlie hooking me up with Scott up in Pa who just happen to have a spare tank, its out with the old then in with the new. I started off today with removing all of the old fuel lines from the motor back to the tank and everything in between.



Then I went ahead and but the lower tanks straps because there were already pretty rusted. Then I was scratching my head wondering why the heck the tank was still on the truck and not laying on the ground?
after 3 beers and some poking and pulling and not so nice words I figured out that I had forgot to remove the filler hose!!!
Once that was out of the way, out she came.


I really didn't have any trouble at all getting the lock ring off and removing the sending unit. I unbolted the float from the plastic pump housing.


Then i was able to pry off the plastic housing to get to the pump. Or what I am assuming is the pump. (the small round metal part in the picture with the red and black wire connected to it)


top view


Now for my question...How do I simple remove this low pressure pump and the wiring so it will not be an issue, so i can put a piece of hose with a sock on it, drop it in the new tanks and start making some progress again.
 
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Old Oct 5, 2013 | 04:45 PM
  #58  
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Yup That's the plan. Just cut the wires
Make sure to get the screen to he bottom( same length as the FDM was)

The fuel reserve can that has the 4 tubes in/ 2 tubes out is a failure part on these trucks. Don't pitch it, another member may need it.

Make sure to use as much steel line as you can from the tank to the fuel pump. I use 5/16 brake line. You can use up to 12" of rubber line from the tank to the line, then 12" of rubber line from the steel line to the fuel pump
 
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Old Oct 5, 2013 | 04:58 PM
  #59  
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Whats the best way/safest way to remove the red and black wire from the sending unit? Should I simple cut them at the connection or cut the heatshrink off and see if I can disconnect the wire from the connection after seeing if the connection is a crimp style or a m-f push-on.
 
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Old Oct 5, 2013 | 05:54 PM
  #60  
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Just take a pair of dikes, and snip them in the brass
On the outside, snip the red wire in the harness, and deadhead it with heat shrink.
Don't fool with the rivets, you'll create a gas leak
You want to leave the black wire hooked up on the outside, it is for the pump and the fuel guage
 
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